View Full Version : TR5/TR250 Clutch Replacement Recommendations

07-08-2013, 07:59 PM
I need to pull the OD gearbox and flywheel and replace the starter ring gear.

A couple things:

1) Recommendations for clutch replacement? Looks like Moss and TRF carry multiple clutch and throw out bearing combinations. I figure that I should change the clutch plate, pressure plate, and TO bearing while I'm in there. I want reliability and I'm not planning on racing this car. Maybe a daily driver, though. Change the pilot bearing while I'm in there?

2) While flywheel is at machine shop for ring gear replacement, any thoughts on shaving off a few pounds? At a minimum, seems like a good idea to surface the flywheel too.

3) For clutch master cylinder and slave, rebuild or replace? Anyone have good luck rebuilding these at home?

4) Do you guys use the adjustable rod for your slave cylinder? Offered by both Moss and TRF so I assume it may be useful.

Thanks again for the help. More questions to come.


07-08-2013, 08:43 PM
I'll offer a minority opinion : If the clutch you have is working well, then it's probably best not to replace it. The reason that Moss & TRF offer so many options is that none of them work very well. If the friction plate is worn, have it relined (lots cheaper than new anyway). If the flywheel surface is rough, have it surfaced. Only replace the TOB if it is rough. Don't replace the pressure plate unless it is clearly defective (broken, overheated, etc).

Check the bores on the master & slave. If they are visibly pitted, it's probably best to replace them. If the bores are smooth or only slightly worn (polished appearance where the seal rides), then IMO rebuild is the way to go. Again, the replacement components frequently have problems.

The adjustable push rod should not be necessary, the TR250-6 clutch setup is supposed to be self-adjusting. However, some of the "upgrade" kits lose the self-adjusting ability; and sometimes you can side-step the problems caused by aftermarket parts by adjusting the pushrod.

These two articles run through some of the things to look for (as well as describing some of the aftermarket part problems)


Also check out the clutch operating shaft. If it doesn't have the reinforcement for the taper pin, it's probably best to add it. Myself, I like to swap the skinny steel bushings that it rides in, for the wide brass bushings used on earlier TRs, plus add grease zerks so they can be lubricated from time to time. But that's probably overkill.

07-08-2013, 08:44 PM

The only one that I can speak to with personal experience is number 3. I had good luck rebuilding all the original clutch and brake hydraulics in my TR4A. Clutch hydraulics are amazingly still working after sitting for 20 years (silicone brake fluid).


07-09-2013, 05:30 AM
I agree with all that has been said so far. I replaced the clutch plate on my TR250 and the throwout bearing (replaced with stock spec) which was clearly worn. I replaced the clevis pins in the clutch release mechanism as they were a little worn, and the size (1/4") is a common one you can get at the local hardware store. Clutch release travel can be an issue on these cars (isn't when everything is working as it should, but still can be) so you want to take out the play in the system. I bought a new pilot bearing but never used it as I couldn't get the old one out, but everything is working fine, so no worries. I did have the flywheel lightened by a few pounds, no adverse affect on idling or running characteristics and theoretically better acceleration so I consider it a no brainer if you are interested in little bumps in performance.

07-09-2013, 05:35 AM
Also, I have a friend who bought the expensive set up from TRF, including the slave cylinder that goes inside the bell housing, I am not sure how long it worked for him, but it did fail, and of course any work on it is a pull the tranny job, it may make the clutch smooth, but not my idea of an upgrade....I seemed to have no issues with clutch release travel so actually went with a slave master cylinder from a later TR6, which has a smaller bore and makes for slightly less effort and a smoother clutch, I am happy with the change.