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View Full Version : Added gas struts to front tilt



David_Doan
05-19-2013, 11:07 PM
Added Gas struts from the base of the radiator support to the top of the reinforced cowling. Adjusted maximum opening to leave about 2″ (hopefully) between the signal light lens and the ground. I measured that I needed struts that went from about 10″ to 15″. The local Autozone had a nice selection on a rack, the closest they had was the MightyLift E95091 (https://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/MightyLift-Universal-lift-support/_/N-26n6?itemIdentifier=799130_0_0_), 14.5″ extended, 9.25″ compressed. There were two in this size, these had the higher weight rating. They are not stout enough that you can just push it closed and let it fall, but they do make it easier to open and hold it open.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MKMkBOLN43k/UZl52lLM39I/AAAAAAAAIn4/ruteWvHxQBE/s912/DSC_0790.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tqBm0jz8dF8/UZl54QbdX2I/AAAAAAAAImc/x4DXCbgTEVg/s912/DSC_0792.JPG

After some adjustments, the shot lines are pretty good. I'm still looking for a good replacement for the rubber piece that runs across the scuttle between the car and the bonnet. The old one fits but it is petrified. I have a ~20 year old new one that came with the car but it is too wide and too tall.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T4xBAkYkr5k/UZl5zh-x_nI/AAAAAAAAIl0/z0diqxkoPgc/s912/DSC_0787.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SJCiFCGezN0/UZl5y4ewr1I/AAAAAAAAIls/6w-fN0jWpjY/s912/DSC_0786.JPG

Jim_Gruber
05-20-2013, 08:03 AM
David,

McGregors/MacGregors in CA provides a correct bonnet seal. They advertise in the back of Classic Motor Sports for example and sell the BristleFlex Door Seals. Their stuff, contrary to the seal that comes from the usual sources does fit. Best to give them a call. They have an 800 #. They don't respond to e-mail very quickly.

I like the idea of what you've done. Another alternative to stops or wire. I don't see any teflon washers in there at the pivot point. Did you use teflon bushings to make things easier to open and move? Alignment on bonnet looks really good. Additional reinforcement around the sheet metal will make sure bonet opens and closes without affecting surrounding sheet metal and the added bracing around the wheel arches makes sure cracks will stay away. Great Job!!!

David_Doan
05-20-2013, 10:57 AM
Thanks Jim, Here's the info I found on MacGregor...


MacGregor British Car Parts
376 Mill Street, Units 5&6
Dundas, Ontario L9H 2M1


Phone: 905-627-4006
Toll free: 1-877-777-6381

mail@macgregorukcarparts.com
https://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/

Jim_Gruber
05-21-2013, 08:55 AM
But call him. Great guy with a Scottish Accent. He doesn't do well with E-Mail.

Trevor Jessie
05-21-2013, 10:15 AM
Looking at those pictures ... looking at this old linear actuator left over from a streetrod project ... scratching my head ... you guys need to quit distracting me.

David_Doan
05-21-2013, 12:34 PM
Looking at those pictures ... looking at this old linear actuator left over from a streetrod project ... scratching my head ... you guys need to quit distracting me.

I thought about that too...the issue is leverage. In the closed position, the strut is only about 2" away from the hinge point. It would take a lot of force to open it. The gas struts I used are about 40 lbs force each. They have little effect when the bonnet is closed.

Trevor Jessie
05-21-2013, 02:10 PM
Stop it! You're making me think about it again. This linear actuator is rated at 1000lbs dynamic load.

David_Doan
05-21-2013, 03:55 PM
Stop it! You're making me think about it again. This linear actuator is rated at 1000lbs dynamic load.

That's exactly the problem. It would take a lot of force to open from that position, the bonnet probably can't handle it. And imagine what would happen if you pushed the button and it was latched down.

Jim_Gruber
05-26-2013, 02:31 PM
David,

Painting this weekend? Pics?

David_Doan
05-30-2013, 08:21 PM
David,

Painting this weekend? Pics?

I've not started yet... partly due to work (I travel for work), and partly due to family stuff. You'd think the 3 day memorial day weekend would be a good time to get stuff done, but there were too many family events. I'm also intimidated by paint and bodywork. I'm a good mechanic and I'm handy with a spray can for small parts, but painting a whole car is virgin territory for me.

Today I bit the bullet and ordered the paint, 1 gallon each of Brightside White Paint, Primer, and Brushing thinner. Probably a little overkill, but 3 quarts is about the same cost as a gallon then add shipping for a second order and having to order one extra quart costs a lot.

Best price is jamestowndistributors.com and they have a flatrate shipping coupon right now - $9.99 and no tax.

I decided to do one door as a confidence builder. I will start a new thread for that.

One thing i'm trying to figure out the best way to manage... there are places where the original paint is flaking off down to the metal. I hit those areas with a wire wheel and work outward until the paint stopped coming off. Do I use filling primmer to raise the low spots OR skim coat OR strip the whole panel to bare metal (that would be most of the car)? I'm leaning towards good sanding and primer.

Jim_Gruber
05-31-2013, 09:14 AM
I think sand and fair in as needed. If you go with a high build primer make sure compatible with the Brightside paint. If you ordered their Primer which I think you did you should be good to go. There will be some areas like under the bonnet, no you already used undercoating there, where it is an advantage to spray vs. roll. I already know there are a few spots where I will need to get Bugsy II out in the open to keep fumes out of the garage / house and keep my wife happy. I'll be curious as to your comments on noxious odors from Brightside Paint. Rustoleum rolled in a small garage is very tolerable. And my wife's asthma was not bothered by Rustoleum. Please let me know how the Brightside Paint did in the garage. Brightside thinned properly and applied with a roller has some great self leveling qualities. And it is a hard, hard paint. I've used before on centerboards and rudders and it always worked well.