View Full Version : TR2/3/3A speedo cable tr3

12-01-2012, 09:54 PM
I seem to have too much play on the speedo cable were it fixes to the transmission on my tr3. Is there a washer or something that goes on the end? I see that Moss talks about an oil seal on the drive bushing/gear but that looks like it is back in from the tip. Anyone have this problem?

12-02-2012, 12:51 AM
I don't understand. Do you mean the outer cable housing stays loose even after you tighten the nut? The inner cable is supposed to be a slip fit, with room to move in and out a bit; it is located at the speedo end.

12-02-2012, 02:06 PM
Thanks Randal, yes even with the nut tight the outer housing does not snug up. Both flat surfaces appear to be together--- flat surface agains tthe other flat surface, but I can grab the cable and move it back and forth about a 1/8 of an inch. It seems like it needs a felt washer or something or that perhaps the nut is not down tight, I hate force it, or the brass housing drive gear set up is wrong somehow. Have you ever removed the drive gear with the trans in place? It looks if I pulled the locating long bolt out it would slid out, but it has been a long time since I tore down a trany.

12-02-2012, 02:19 PM
That's indeed how it comes out. Mine was glued in with grime, though, and I wound up destroying the brass insert pulling it out.

It sounds like your knurled nut is not screwing in far enough. Is it hitting the aluminum case? If not, it may just be dirty or have bugarred threads.


12-02-2012, 02:21 PM
I see. Yes, it should pull up tight with no washer. But I don't suppose it would hurt anything to add a washer. In fact, the factory used a washer with some of the right angle drives (on later TRs with OD).

The housing (and adapter) should come out if you remove the bolt. However it's not unusual for it to be pretty firmly stuck and require some prying to get it out. Leave the cable nut on (using an old one if you have it) to protect the threads, and give you a lip to pry against.


(That's a later gearbox, not quite the same, but illustrates the idea.)

12-03-2012, 01:25 PM
Thanks you guys for posting. The treads on the brass sleeve had a deep scratch and I ended up forcing the knurled nut on with channel locks. I just hate doing that even with some protection on the jaws of the pliers; it chewed up that soft aluminum. The sleeve must have got wacked when I put a clutch in back in 93 and I just let it go. I was going to swap in a better sleeve, but the area was just too tight, and I was fearful of opening a can of worms and have to pull the tunnel or whatever. I did get the sleeve to move out about a inch by prying with the screwdriver, and then I thought I would never get the new one to line up, so I opt for cavemaning the knurled nut on, but every turn hurt. Then after I was done, I noticed there is a square notch on the end of the brass sleeve, so perhaps I could have got it all back together with the trans in place, just too tight.