View Full Version : TR6 TR6 grill emplem help please.

11-25-2012, 09:33 PM
Well, I consider myself pretty lucky. The screw holding the grill emblem on backed out without me noticing it. The emblem happen to stay on until I got home. I went to the hardware to find another screw, but no luck. Does anyone know the correct size screw for this? I check VB and Moss, and they do not seem to carry it. I have a 69 if that makes a difference. Any help is appreciated.

11-25-2012, 10:51 PM
I don't know the exact size screw that holds the emblem on, but I too had difficulty finding the exact screw sizes for some of the gauges. When I did find the right size it turned out to be 8-36 as opposed the the very common 8-32.
Maybe someone else can tell you the screw size for the emblem but it may be possible that they used an 8-36 for that as well.

11-26-2012, 09:43 AM
But Kevin, pretty sure it is just a 1/4-28 thread.
Can't remember if the early cars had a stud and bolt set up or a bolt set up

Also TRF has them too

11-26-2012, 11:47 PM
Thanks Elliot and Don. I didn't see them in TRF either, Don. The 8/32 was close, but still not correct. I think the later model cars must have used a larger screw. I am going to keep looking , but if I can't find the correct screw, I have an extra grill badge frame I can tap. Hate to do it, but I will have to if I can't find the correct screw.

11-27-2012, 12:27 AM
By the way, was it a screw or a bolt? If a screw, was it slotted, phillips, or the one that looks close to a phillips (forgot the name)?

11-27-2012, 01:28 AM
Aloha Kevin,

I happen to have a grill apart (early emblem) and it's a small bolt, 1 3/16" long, 32 threads. I check a ZS carb fuel bowl screw and it's the same size (but 1 1/2" long)...or at least it went in about two turns. The badge bolt is tapered and has a cut in the end, possibly for self-tapping or for some sort of locking feature. With just that one bolt holding it on, they didn't want it to back out (as you experienced anyway!). If you just crank it down hoping max torque will keep it in place, it would probably crack the cloisonne badge ($$!). I took a picture of both; badge bolt on the left. I can mail you a carb screw if you need.

11-27-2012, 08:29 AM
So is it a 10/32

11-27-2012, 10:23 AM
Thanks so much for the pics! I can't remember if I tried an 8 - 32 or 10-32at the hardware store. It started to turn, but I got nervous about forcing it since my badge was still attached. I think I will remove the badge, re-tap the badge bracket, and go back to the hardware store. Thanks again for all the help.

11-27-2012, 10:35 AM
Looks like TRF has it listed as part# SLP299... But it says 4mm x 1-1/4"...

Can you mix metric and standard measurements like that?

11-27-2012, 10:44 AM
Looks like TRF has it listed as part# SLP299... But it says 4mm x 1-1/4"...


Where'd you find that?

11-27-2012, 11:23 AM
Buried in an old catalog I found and cruising the internet.

Also found a Triumph part# HU460 listed as a #8 UNC x 1-1/4

11-27-2012, 12:27 PM
I don't believe that there are any metric threads on the TR6.... it was all imperial.
If the 8/32 was close, I would find an 8-36 and try it.... you might find it fits!

12-02-2012, 01:50 PM
Well, I finally gave up trying to find an original. The best I could find was an 8 - 32 in stainless steel. It seems to work just fine. Thanks again for your help.

12-02-2012, 09:04 PM
I used 8/32 on mine when I had it re-enamaled in red and they threaded on nicely.



12-03-2012, 08:29 AM
Paul- do you still have the stock one on yours as the earlier versions were different

12-03-2012, 08:50 AM
Don, the one that was made red came from eBay. I'm not sure what year it came from. My original is packed up at home.

12-10-2012, 01:14 PM
I ran my grill badge screw through a screw checker, and it came up #8/32. My grill badge has C.E.M1 cast into it on the inside, and had a foil emblem. I suspect that after all these years, some badges have been replaced, or the screws changed due to loss. If you are replacing the foil/enamelled portion, drilling the boss through, and retapping would be an option.
Otherwise, the depth is short, and you would need a bottoming tap.