View Full Version : Chemical dipping vs media cleaning?

08-29-2012, 08:23 PM
I have a few replacement panels that I need to get primed. The location I used for chemical cleaning of the others panels is now MIA....so looking at alternatives or other locations on the East Coast.

Can you achieve good cleaning on heavily rusted panels with over the counter stuff....Does any kind of media strip rust well?

All suggestions welcome!

08-30-2012, 07:36 AM
Don't know what kind of rust but you have. Heavy surface rust can be cleaned with glass beads with little distortion. Localized rust along panel edges can be cleaned with standard blast media but will warp the panel if applied to larger areas. Soda won't remove rust but will clean most of other stuff (except undercoat). The chemical rust removers I've used take lots of time and elbow grease but seem to get rid of most. I'm still threatening to try molasses but have not gotten to it yet. Rust Remover (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-_z4tinnXk)


08-30-2012, 07:54 AM
Blasting can result in the panel getting distorted depending on the skill of the person doing the blasting. Soda blasting is an option, not sure I'd recommend more than that.

But before you do anything, are the panels new? Do they have the black eCoat on them still?

08-30-2012, 07:56 AM
I'm sorry your chemical stripping place is gone. With regulations getting tighter and tighter I am not surprised there are fewer of these places around.

This may not be close to you but I have used Carolina Chemstrip which is about 10 miles north of Burlington, NC.

The last time I used them was over 20 years ago. They did chemical stripping for my former employer and they stripped and phosphate coated the bonnet for our GT6. 20 years ago they did good work. I have to assume since they are still around their work continues to be good.

For over-the-counter paint removal, paste type chemical strippers work well. I have used many brands but seem to come back to "Strip-eze" from the home center based on availability and price. To make any paste type stripper work better for you, slather the stripper onto the surface and then cover it with a plastic trash bag. The bag will slow the evaporation of the stripper. Give it time to work, don't rush. Once you remove the plastic some paint will have lifted, other paint will still be adhered. All the paint will be softer so you can use putty knives and razor blades to scrape most of the paint off. Follow that with ScotchBrite pads and you will be down to bare metal and rust.

To remove the rust I apply generic phosphoric acid purchased from the local agricultural supply. Phosphoric acid is phosphoric acid. You do not need to buy expensive versions like Ospho, or Metal Ready. Products like EvapoRust are similar but cost a whole lot more and work slower. With the phosphoric acid (any brand) keep the surface wet at all times while the acid works. Do not let it dry as it will leave a white loose coating on the surface. You want a deep grey, uniform etch from the acid. When the surface color approaches dark grey, rinse the surface with clean water, wipe dry with a towel, then blow dry with compressed air. There may be immediate flash rust. Don't be bothered by that. Prior to priming the surface, the normal wipe down with prep solvent will remove the flash rust.

09-02-2012, 08:54 AM
Thanks for all the replies...For two of the pieces I may try stripping and coating with some kind of conversion method. For the last piece I think i will box it up and send to the NC location.

It is all about knowing your own limitations.