View Full Version : TR2/3/3A TR3 Windscreen Air Deflectors

08-20-2012, 09:25 AM
I have a pair of AMCO brand deflectors that came with my car. Just spent some time today cleaning up the chrome pieces. The deflectors are curved on one end. I believe they install with the curve out at the bottom. Could someone please verify that this is correct.

The metal pieces cleaned up pretty well, but the plastic pieces are showing their age. Anyone have luck cleaning/restoring them? Something like the headlight lens cleaners should work I guess, but has anyone else found something that works well?

Cheers, Mike

08-20-2012, 09:39 AM
yes the curve is out at the bottom. At least that is how it is on mine.

08-20-2012, 10:34 AM
Thanks Adrio ... we live pretty close together. Are or were you a member of OVTC? Cheers, Mike

08-20-2012, 10:55 AM
Hi Mike,

Yes Kempville is close. I have owned the TR3A since 1979 but have not joined the OVTC.


Don Elliott
08-20-2012, 10:58 AM
Mike and Adrio - I never had the air deflectors on my 1958 TR3A. All the TRs I saw with them on were secured using hex head grub screws that cut into the chrome where they were attached to the windscreen frame. So I never bought any nor did I want to. And they are in the way when you have to install the sidecurtains too.

Gary A. in BC (formerly Windsor ON and Calgary) has some on his red TR3A with white racing stripes that he made himself. That's the kind I would like to have. They are secured with a steel up-right strut off some old sidescreen frames. He uses only the front strut which he inserts into the front Dzus attachment (in his case with a late TR3A) and he has heat formed (moulded) some plexiglas into a nice outer curve and which is riveted to the struts. His air deflectors come all the way from the top of the stanction down to the slope along the top of the doors. Nice design, they work well and they look great on a TR. When he puts on his sidescreens (rarely), he stows the air deflector assemblies in the boot.

08-20-2012, 12:44 PM
Hi Mike,

Curve out on mine too. This allows them to fold in and not interfere with the sidescreens if you install them. Still tight but they both do fit on my 58.

The hex screws Don referred to do not screw into the stanchion but they screw against the tenon plate - mine are stainless, but some are chrome.

And the result is very reduced wind. Better yet(from what I read) are the type that Herman VDA has on their 3. They mount to the sidescreen dzus mounts are are supposed to keep the wind out. Haven't made up a set yet though.

There was a photo here recently. Anyone?

08-20-2012, 04:14 PM
All the TRs I saw with them on were secured using hex head grub screws that cut into the chrome where they were attached to the windscreen frame.

FWIW, you could replace those screws with ones tipped in some softer material, to reduce the damage. MMC (https://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=ixopa6) has them available in nylon, brass and silver.

08-20-2012, 04:51 PM
Thanks for the input everyone. Has anyone been successful in cleaning the plastic? Cheers, Mike

Don Elliott
08-20-2012, 06:46 PM
For polishing plastic "glass" on instruments as well as for the windows on the sidescreens, I have heard that any good polish will make them sparkle. Sort of like buffing and putting a shine on your paintwork.

08-20-2012, 07:09 PM

Here's a shot of the Amco ones that came with my TR3 which are curved out at the bottom as well.



You might take a look at Novus plastic polish which comes in grades 1-3. 1 is mostly clean and shine but 2 and 3 are supposed to be for fine and heavy scratches respectively.


08-20-2012, 08:07 PM
Thanks Scott, will check out the novus products. Cheers, Mike

08-21-2012, 08:18 AM
I have had good results with this (together with the matching cleaner) on the plastic on my boat. It makes it nice and clear. Workes on rear windows of the soft top as well.


08-21-2012, 08:25 AM
Thanks for the additional option. Cheers, Mike

Geo Hahn
08-21-2012, 03:16 PM
FWIW, you could replace those screws with ones tipped in some softer material, to reduce the damage...

Also, you might consider using a hex-socket cap screw instead of the supplied grub screw. This makes it much easier to snug up the screws by hand (well, fingers) then tighten a bit more with an allen wrench. The allen head grub screws supplied with some current wings are (IMO) not of a particularly high quality and can fracture too easily.

08-21-2012, 04:37 PM
I tried several ways to clean my AMCO deflectors but just ended up with a lot a very clean scratches, they were too far gone. So, I took them to a local glass shop and had them cut a new set from Lexan using the originals as a pattern.

08-21-2012, 04:49 PM
Thanks. Spent some time cleaning today. There are still some scratches showing, but they are much better, and certainly useable. Hex cap screws are a good idea as well. Cheers, Mike