View Full Version : Door gap/sag

08-14-2012, 10:35 AM
Hi all,

A very common problem on our cars is door gap/fitment over the years. As the car has not yet had a frame off, this problem has never been addressed on my car. I was wondering if someone could suggest the best way to get started trying to even this out.

I'm wondering what any of you out there have done to try to cure this without all the meticulous timeless work that goes into straightening during a frame off? Any suggestions would be welcomed!


<span style="font-weight: bold">Passenger side

<span style="font-weight: bold">Drivers side


08-14-2012, 12:48 PM
Very nice 4A there Richie-

I'd argue the gaps aren't that bad there. But it you want to investigate tweaking a little, I suggest looking at the rear body mounts and see if anything is missing there. On my car one side had lost the spacer mount - and I had a pretty good door gap at the top. Shimming the rear closed the gap quite a bit. Wont' fix door sag, but that doesn't look to be a huge issue on your car.


08-14-2012, 01:00 PM
Yeah, I'd agree that the gaps at the back are pretty good.

It looks like the driver's door doesn't close all the way, at least at the top. You can move the striker plate in a little to get that better. Does it sit away from the rear fender evenly from top to bottom? How does it fit in relation to the front fender?

08-14-2012, 01:02 PM
Richie, I think that the problem is your surrey top. You should remove it, sell it to me and then forget about the door gaps forever..... :devilgrin:

08-14-2012, 09:25 PM
I'm going to have to agree with Randy that they are not bad at all. The gaps on a IRS car are to be a little wider at the top then the bottom. I believe that was built into the cars expecting that in time fatiguing of the frame would cause them to sag a bit and eventually even the gaps.
If you still want to close them I've heard of guys shimming up the rear mounts to close the gaps. Also welding and edge onto the door skin but your already painted.