View Full Version : TR6 1973 tr6 wiring

08-01-2012, 11:21 AM
I am having trouble wiring my 73 TR6 do you have to have everything connected to get the blinkers and headlights to work Thanks

08-01-2012, 11:28 AM
I am thinking the ignition key has to be in the "on" position for the turn signals to work... I'm going from memory so I suggest you check the schematic to be sure.

08-01-2012, 11:31 AM
Thanks, I did have the ignition turned on no luck

08-01-2012, 11:36 AM
Check the grounds first...

08-01-2012, 12:50 PM
Yes, always suspect the grounds, but also....
lookng at the wiring schematic, the only thing I see those 2 circuits have in common is the headlight switch.

08-01-2012, 01:19 PM
My 3A had problems with the turn signals earlier this year. As the forum peeps state, check the grounds.....worked for me :-)

08-01-2012, 01:52 PM
Sundown, might be a good idea to explain exactly what is/isn't working. For example, no lights at all vs no flashers vs no turn signal etc..

08-01-2012, 02:15 PM
on my 71 model the hazard switch is part of the turn signal circuit, I dont know if your switch is the same but the 71 has a rocker switch and if you go from hazard on to off and the rocker doesnt make full contact in the off position the turn signals wont work. As far as headlights, if they dont come on you need to start checking for power at the switch and trace it. Best I can offer you and yes clean all the grounds

did they work before and now they dont?


08-01-2012, 07:39 PM
I had one headlight go out on my '73... I traced it to a bullet connector up near the radiator. Just cleaned it and chased Mr. Lucas away.

08-04-2012, 04:16 PM
S.O.S on my 1973 TR6 I have the flashers working, headlights working, reverse lights working and the brake lights working. The turn signals NOT WORKING connections are right the blinker switch is good any help would be much appreciated I want to drive legal Thanks

08-04-2012, 04:31 PM
Have you checked the turn signal flasher located on the passenger side near the kick panel?
Are bulbs OK?
Next check the contacts in the bulb holders, they can corrode over time and might need to be cleaned.
Sounds like you are making progress!

08-04-2012, 04:43 PM
Er, you did turn the ignition on, right?

Do the other "green" circuit items work when you turn the key on, like gauges, wipers, etc? If not, it's likely the fuse is blown, or could be the white wire from the fuse block back to the ignition switch or the green wire out to the hazard switch.

Assuming that works, I would probably check at the flasher next. If you pull the flasher out of its socket and check from each socket to ground (with the ignition on), you should find power on one of them. If not, the problem is likely to be the hazard switch itself. You can install a temporary jumper (short length of insulated wire with male quick connects on both ends, save for later use as well) to eliminate the flasher unit as a suspect and ease troubleshooting farther down the line.

If still no joy, I would double-check that the 3 GW and 3 RW wires are joined together (where the turn and hazard circuits meet to run out to the bulbs). It's unlikely both connections are bad, but since you are installing the wiring ...

Next, I'd pull the turn switch out and check directly at it with it still connected. With the jumper installed at the flasher, you should see a constant 12v coming in, and 12v going out to whichever side is selected. Sometimes a switch will check fine with an ohmmeter, but not be able to carry enough current to actually light the bulbs.

After that, you just continue to divide and conquer along whichever segment shows what it should on one end, and nothing on the other end.

08-04-2012, 05:25 PM
yes all my gauges are working, the heater blower is good, and wipers working, but shouldn't the flashers work without the key turned on they only flash when the key is on thanks for the input

08-04-2012, 05:33 PM
Nope, the turn signals only work with the key on. Hazard flashers work either way, but not turn. Dunno why, but that's the way it is on every car I've ever owned. Part of the reason that circuit is so complicated.

08-04-2012, 06:36 PM
ok so the flashers should work off the battery w/out any power from the ignition? are the bulb socket holders part of the grounding process

08-04-2012, 08:46 PM
ok so the flashers should work off the battery w/out any power from the ignition?
I don't quite understand the question. The turn signals get their power from the ignition switch (meaning the switch has to be on for the turn signals to work). But the engine does not have to be running (meaning the battery is the ultimate power source and the ignition switch only passes it on).

Yes, the bulb sockets provide the ground connection to the bulbs. With the original rear sockets, it is very common for the plastic body to droop and lose the connection inside the socket. See https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Electrical/TR6Sockets/TR6Sockets.htm for one way to deal with the problem. (The ones on my Stag were so bad that I actually had to use a short length of wire to bridge the gap.)


08-04-2012, 09:02 PM
If you haven't already, it's easy to completely disassemble and clean the fuse holder, good PM.

08-05-2012, 01:01 PM
My question or I should say my problem is the emergency flashers should work with the ignition off using only the battery for power and the brake lights should also come on when hitting the brake pedal with out the key position on .They only work when I have the key to the on position also the brake light bulb was super hot after being on for about 3 mins?

08-05-2012, 01:37 PM
The brake lights also do not work without the ignition on, as original. That seems to be a British convention; all the British cars I've looked at work that way, while most American cars have the brake lights work without the ignition being on.

Yes, brake light bulb will be very hot after 3 minutes of operation. Incandescent bulbs contain a small amount of inert gas, which greatly extends the life of the filament; but also conducts some of the heat from the filament (which is somewhere around 5000F when lit) to the bulb.

08-05-2012, 03:56 PM
That's great info about how hot the brake bulb can get since I have a blister the size of a a quarter.Can't believe the glass bulb doesn't burst. But back to the emergency flashers they should operate w/out the key on? They only work with the key to the on position. Thanks for all the help

08-05-2012, 06:41 PM
Can't believe the glass bulb doesn't burst.

It's actually a special glass, but being so thin also helps it not break from thermal stress. A short section of 3/4" heater hose can be used to remove a hot bulb (but be sure to catch the bulb with a cloth or something). Oh, and they will break if you get water on them while they are hot.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]But back to the emergency flashers they should operate w/out the key on? They only work with the key to the on position. Thanks for all the help [/QUOTE]
Yes, the emergency flashers should work with the key off. Should be a brown wire that supplies power to the 3rd fuse all the time, then a purple wire from that fuse to the hazard flasher that is also always hot (unless the fuse is blown).

08-06-2012, 06:56 AM
Thanks, looks like I should pull the flasher switch out to be sure I have the connections right. Still blows my mind that those bulbs can get that hot.