View Full Version : TR4/4A How to sell a TR4a

08-01-2012, 08:05 AM
So obviously I know how to sell a car, but could use your thoughts on how far to go on preparations on this one. I've decided to sell the '66 solid axle and she is a bit rough at this point. Runs and drives, still need to check that the OD is healthy (this is the one I put new seals in and had the dowel issue with), but generally she can be used as a rolling restoration.

That said her interior is out - good news is that you can clearly see that her floors are in great shape but not sure that buyers will get that. She has a slight pulsing when braking, just a rotor issue that is easily sorted but... Horn needs attention so you don't honk everytime you hit a bump etc... Have the front sway bar ready to go on but not sure worth the time to do it etc... You get the picture. Have new but cheaper carpet, not too eager to put it in. Seats need to be recovered and re-stuffed. None of it is hard and none of it is "core" is that makes sense.

So would you clean her up but leave her more or less as-is and just wait for the right buyer? As you can probably tell I'm not too eager to spend a large amount of time here when I've got the rest of the fleet needing attention.


08-01-2012, 08:30 AM
My first thought is to fix the brakes and horn (I dislike the "easy fix" notes on car ads -- if it's really an easy fix, then fix it). Carpet's more questionable, but having it done will make the car more appealing to a buyer. Focus a couple weeks on sorting out these niggles and it should be an easier sell.

08-01-2012, 08:33 AM
Sounds like you need to make a decision of whether to sell a 'project' or a 'driver' to put it in simple terms. You'll get more for a driver but at the right price a project might sell pretty quickly to someone with the confidence and desire to finish it up.
What's your thoughts about one price vs the other ?

Marvin Gruber
08-01-2012, 08:42 AM
Agree with Poolboy. My guess is if you're under say $4000 its a project. Over that price say its a driver needing some attention.


08-01-2012, 08:46 AM
I'm with Drew. Pretty cars without a bunch of "easy fixes" appeal to a much broader audience. I realize you said the car was rough, but selling a car is a lot like selling a house. You want the buyer to be able to imagine themselves driving it, not fixing it.

08-01-2012, 09:22 AM
TD....Here is a West Coast TR4 project for reference. Good Luck Gil NoCal

08-01-2012, 09:33 AM
Hi guys - thanks for the thoughts. Looks like I need to spend some time on her sorting out the easy stuff. Unlike that project listing (thanks Gill) she is a running and driving car with no questions as to body condition and what is under the fresh paint.

Looks like she needs to be a driver...

08-02-2012, 04:28 PM
Hi TD, I've sold a number of old cars in my day and the drivers are a whole lot easier to sell then the projects. Plus you usually get more green for them. Takes a special buyer to recognize the potential in a project. Or some one like me who just loves to bang his head on a wall constantly, heh.

Good Luck

08-02-2012, 05:04 PM
Hi Dick - thanks for the note.

I've ordered rotors, all the electrical system is up and running except need to fix the turn signal and bump induced horn.

This is a slippery slope. Rear shocks are OK-ish, do I replace or leave?

Door rubber trim gone on one side, leave or replace?

Carpet in or out?

Where do you stop?

08-02-2012, 11:20 PM
You mentioned the nice rust free floors, and a new carpet set, take lots of pictures of the floors, whole floor, corners, etc. Then fit the carpet and trim, the more complete and ready to enjoy the better, don't think I few grommets or minor pieces or rubber trim would matter than much, but I would fit the door rubber trim (doors banging about on a test drive a turn off), wouldn't worry about OKish shocks, on a live axle 4A the springs are so stiff I don't think the mediocre shocks would be readily apparent.

If the horn is too much work you might just disconnect it, and explain to the buyer it is non-functional or has a short, non working horn shouldn't put anybody off, intermittent horn with mind of its own, buyer says, wow this thing may be all messed up electrically.

My .02

08-02-2012, 11:56 PM
Maybe oil those springs, ala Andy Mace.

08-03-2012, 08:30 AM
Maybe oil those springs, ala Andy Mace.

Hey - good morning. The leaf springs are OK it is the leveler arms that are a bit tired.

You know that after "all" of the work I'm going to want to keep her. Ha.

Thanks guys - appreciate the input.

08-03-2012, 11:22 AM
This is a slippery slope. Rear shocks are OK-ish, do I replace or leave?

Door rubber trim gone on one side, leave or replace?

Carpet in or out?

Where do you stop?

My opinion, get the car to where it is legally driveable, then stop. So I would fix the horns and lights, leave the OK-ish shocks, trim, carpet, etc.

A "roller" (meaning it could at least potentially be driven home) will bring more (and appeal to a wider audience) even if it is cosmetically challenged than even a "pretty" car that has to be towed home. That doesn't necessarily make sense, since the cosmetics are usually the hardest (and most expensive) part; but some people don't know that and others are more into "rolling restorations". And some (like me) want the chance to "personalize" the car with their choice of paint jobs and so on.

08-03-2012, 06:35 PM
Hi Randall - thanks for the thoughts.

Driving her home now will be a bit nicer since the OD is working now. Yep - solenoid. Nice crisp engagement actually.

That leaves the horn...