View Full Version : TR2/3/3A Removing TR3 'starter' bolt

06-03-2012, 12:13 AM
I'm planning on fitting an electric fan with a shroud to my car, replacing the old 4-blade crank-driven fan. With the fan off, but the hub extension and bolt in place, I'm not sure there's quite enough room.

What are the options for running without the hub extension and bolt? If they're removed, what holds the crank pulley on?

Apologies if this is a dumb question


Geo Hahn
06-03-2012, 08:47 AM
Not a dumb question at all.

Here may be one option:


I'm sure there are simpler, cheaper though perhaps less elegant solutions.

(Note: I have not done this so I merely note a website I've seen)

06-03-2012, 08:54 AM
You have to find a replacement for the extension and long bolt; it is essential that the pulley hub is firmly clamped to the crankshaft. The bolt is a standard (if rather large) SAE fine thread, 5/8 NF IIRC.

First time I did it, I got away with using just a big flat washer between the bolt head and hub; but on the second engine the washer pulled up against the nose of the crank instead of the hub. Worked OK at first but after a few years the pulley had worked back and forth against the key enough to tear up the joint. So I "machined" a spacer out of a pipe cap that would fit over the nose of the crank and firmly clamp the hub. Oh yeah, I also had to grind a bit off the heads of the 6 bolts that hold the pulley halves to the hub, so they would fit inside the ridge on the hub.

<span style="text-decoration: line-through">Someone sells a spacer commercially that is probably much better, but I forget who offhand.</span> Oops, I see Geo has beat me to it. Rick Patton is the source I couldn't remember.

06-03-2012, 09:44 PM
Thanks, guys

The Patton solution looks ideal, and is most likely the way I'll go. It looks 100% reversible too,

Thanks again