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View Full Version : TR2/3/3A Are Classic2Current TR3 floor pans good quality?



TuffTR250
05-23-2012, 02:07 PM
I saw in an old BCF thread that the floor pans originally sold by Classic2Current Fabricators were too short and didn't fit correctly. However, much later in that thread it was stated that they had fixed the problems with the help of a British Car Forum member.
>Are there floor pans good now?
>Do they have the holes drilled in the correct places?
>Do they have capture nuts where required?
Thanks for the help!
Regards,
Bob

Psevins
05-23-2012, 08:17 PM
Just ordered a set today so I will know soon enough!

I read the same threads and found some discussions on other sites that back up the increased quality claims.

TomMull
05-23-2012, 08:34 PM
I'd ask them directly about the holes and captive nuts. Last I knew they didn't, but that was a year ago.
As for the length, it would be nice if they left an extra bit along the front that could be cut to match the flange. (I had to add a piece onto my Moss pan on one side). They all fit with a little work.
Tom

justin_mercier
05-23-2012, 10:24 PM
I h ave a set of tr4-6 C2C fabrication floor pans that fit fine, have the holes in the right places, but no captive nuts. They're more like very large patch panels than complete replacement floors

TuffTR250
05-24-2012, 08:23 AM
TomMull, in adding a piece to the front of the floor pan, would it be ok to use a hand flanging tool to flange the piece and then spot weld the piece to the floor pan? Or is it best to butt weld the piece on all the way across?
Regards,
Bob

hermanmaire
05-24-2012, 09:46 AM
The TR3 floor pans that were used in my car used very thin metal. I honestly think they could have used thicker heavier gauge metal

TomMull
05-24-2012, 10:43 AM
I butt welded a 1 inch piece onto the floor then cut off about half of that. I did that on the bench so it was easy to dress and flatten out. I also messed around with the flange that goes against the inner sill to close things up at the corner. Incidentally, the other side fit ok (same supplier but apparently a different batch).
IMO a flange weld would be fine here too.
Agree with post above, the Moss floors seemed to be 20 ga. The Classic2Current floors I've seen were 18 ga as original.
Tom

justin_mercier
05-24-2012, 10:54 AM
My TR4-6 floorpans were 17 ga, actually heavier than the originals. Having changed bodies though, I never used them, and they're sitting in my garage now. (for sale if anyone wants to save even more money)

I guess my opinion is, if you have to replace a whole floorpan not saving any of the original, get a BMH one if available, but if you're going to be repairing up to say 90% of the floor pan but keeping the original sills or edges of the transmission tunnel, then you can probably save money with C2CFabrication as long as you're willing to weld in the patch work pannel. The ridges and holes etc are all formed, so it's a 'proper' replacment, not a piece of 16 gauge flat metal someone picked up at the scrap yard to weld over a hole.

TuffTR250
05-24-2012, 01:09 PM
TomMull, thanks for the information on how you did yours!!
I called C2C today and they do use 18 gauge metal. They have all the holes but no capture nuts.
Justin, from what C2C told me, they make the pans based on feedback from customers. They indicated that their current pans are the same as originals as much as they have been able to determine from samples of old ones sent to them.

I plan to replace my entire floor and I'm wondering how the BMH ones might be different or better than the C2C ones. Can anyone advise on that on TR3 pans? Thanks!
Regards,
Bob

CJD
05-24-2012, 01:10 PM
I don't know about the C2C pans...but a year ago I bought 5 from 3 different sources to get 2 good ones. The other 3 went back to the vendor, because the quality was soooo poor! I think I kept one from TRF and the other from Victoria British.

The VB was a British Heritage approved part, and was the best of the 5...but they only had one side. The Moss (sorry guys, cause most of your stuff is great) were the worst. I had to beg Moss to take them back, as "poor quality" is in the fine print as not being a reason for a return. After begging, and a promise to spend a couple thousand more $ in the restoration, they did finally accept the return.

John

TuffTR250
05-24-2012, 02:09 PM
CJD, that doesn't sound good. If you don't mind, once I get replacement floor pans, I'd appreciate it if I could PM you to have you explain to me what I need to look for to ensure I have "good" parts. I'm not sure what to look for. It may be several weeks from now. Thanks!
Regards,
Bob

martx-5
05-24-2012, 03:01 PM
The Moss (sorry guys, cause most of your stuff is great) were the worst...

John

I used the Moss floor pans in my restoration, and they fit right in without any hassles. They were as original, as I cut the whole floor out including the overhangs on the front and rear. All of the caged nuts were in the proper places. I don't know what the gauge of the pans are, but I suppose I could measure them if anyone is interested.

I bought these about four years ago, so maybe they used a different vendor then the ones that you got.

BRSLimited
06-18-2012, 08:54 PM
Any update on the quality of the floors? I need a set for my TR3 and like the price but am cautious about the quality.

tr3aproj
06-18-2012, 11:33 PM
I have used C2C, BMH, Cox&Buckles, and NDM and quality seems to vary even within each manufacturer. C2C has been responsive to customer complaints and makes a floor pan that is as good as any. I have a spot welder so putting the cage nuts on was not a problem. The holes were all pre-drilled.
Robert

TuffTR250
06-19-2012, 07:17 AM
I received the TR3 floor pans I ordered from C2C and they are very heavy gauge. It will be a while before I'm ready to put them in. They look quite good but since part of the old floor is still in, I could not determine how they will fit. I did notice that they missed drilling the two holes on the side flange on the right hand floor pan. I plan to carefully cut out that section of the old floor so I can use it as a template for where to drill the required holes.
Regards,
Bob