View Full Version : TR4/4A TR4A engine mounts

05-19-2012, 02:35 PM
Anybody know a little secret on raising the engine a bit
to gain clearance to shim the mounts. Need about a 1/4" +-
to give clearance between the steering rack and fan mount.
Will first try milling the mounting blocks of the steering rack.

05-19-2012, 02:47 PM
I put in new mounts without taking much apart, radiator hoses were about it using a floor jack with a board under the oil pan.

Geo Hahn
05-19-2012, 04:50 PM
I had new mounts but still couldn't get a new belt through there w/o loosening the mount nuts quite a bit and jacking up the engine.

Thinking I didn't want to do that on the side of the road (belts rarely break when the car is sitting in the garage) I added shims to raise the engine.

The mounts on the TR4 are round so I used big washers of the same OD and the holes were also big enough. I opened up a slot to the hole (quick work with an angle grinder), making the cut slightly angled, sort of based on the slot used on the rectangular TR3 shims:


As I recall I raised the engine 3 washers worth on each side -- a bit more than 3/16". I put a dab of Aviation form-a-gasket on the washers so they wouldn't want to squirt out (brand new metal is pretty smooth stuff).

Didn't have to remove anything, just loosened the nuts and raised the engine with a 2x6 under the oil pan & slipped the shims in. I 'clocked' the slots so they weren't all lined up.

I also raised the radiator (shimmed the lower mounts) by a similar amount to avoid straining the top hose.

Now there is enough room for an easy belt change.

05-20-2012, 05:41 PM
Always stress about "what if" I get the engine off kilter and it won't rest back down over the mounting bolts.

Here's what I've done twice when just shimming. Bought large thick washers, measured thickness against available bolt thread, finding about 1/4 at least on each side; cut slot in each washer; drain radiator; remove radiator hoses top and bottom; loosen both mounting bolts; raise engine just enough using a soft cloth, piece of 2x4 and floor jack toward front of sump; slide washers in place. Some folks may even want to first loosen the transmission mounting bracket under the car, a few turns of each nut.

This is the easiest I'd imagine.

I've also been able to raise the entire engine high enough, both sides with both mounting nuts off, to just drop the washers over the top of the mounting bolt. I can leave one side attached as a precaution, or just let both sides go up together so long as the incline of the engine is steady.

To replace the mounts is trickier. I do it the same way but try to rock one side at a time, leaving one mount attached. Ive actually raised it without leaving one attached but that bothered me a bit. I greased up the entire mount and bracket so nothing would bind up on the descent. Good luck.

05-20-2012, 07:46 PM
Thanks KVH
Will try this method this week. Have to pick up some
oversize washers 1st. Will definitely loosen the gearbox
bolts. Have plenty of thin washers if needed.Took the rad out
& will raise it a bit afterwards when puting it back. Things are
a bit easier since I'm in the process of a frame-off. Been messing with
the trans/gearbox cover so it is off the car at the moment.
Do you guys ground the trans to the frame ?