PDA

View Full Version : TR2/3/3A TR3 Floor pan



Psevins
05-16-2012, 09:29 PM
So im working on the plans for my TR3 and I've hit upon a question concerning the order of my process. I restored a Spitfire some years ago and cut out and replaced the floor pans while it was still on the frame. As I'm planning my tr3 work I've found a bit of a difference of opinion on this. My own eyes tell me it looks more difficult to do while attached but I'd rather not torque the whole tub out of shape. I should note I'm replacing the sills as well. I've seen numerous restos where they just separate the tub front from back and weld the floor and sills in that way. Looks interesting but is there a consensus on these methods? My ideal plan would be pull the tub (reinforced btw) and set to the side so I can work on frame/drive train issues this summer.

Any recommendations would be appreciated!

TomMull
05-17-2012, 06:31 AM
It is obviously much easier to do it with the tub off but that is a lot of work. It is possible to weld in a new floor with the body on the frame but I haven't found a way to do that without making a coupe of cuts in the new floor (not the worst thing in the world). Still, IMO, body on is the best option if the body isn't coming off for other reasons. Most drive train and some frame issues don't require the body off. When it comes off, a full restoration project usually results before it goes back on. Tom

martx-5
05-17-2012, 06:42 AM
If you're going to replace floors and sills, you're going to have to brace across the doors before removing anything. I also welded a brace across the middle, drilled a hole, and used my engine hoist to lift the body off the frame. Since I only have a one and a half car garage, being able to lift it off, move it around and put it back on with the engine hoist proved very convenient. Do one side at a time, and be aware that you essentially have to build the car around the doors. If you don't get the door openings correct, nothing else will fit right.

Also, Get this book. (https://www.amazon.com/Restore-Triumph-Enthusiasts-Restoration-Manuals/dp/1903706157) There's a wealth of knowledge in it. It covers every aspect of the restoration.

Psevins
05-17-2012, 06:48 AM
My full plan was a total resto. The frame is in need of cleaning and paint and I have issues with needing to do things over again later so I'd like to do all together one time. Time and space isn't an issue ( for once). I suppose I could separate the body and frame and mount the body to a temp. holding rig that would give me better access and such but still maintain some body rigidity.

I've read that cutting to get the panels in is needed but I've not read/seen where the issue lies. I know my past experience that there isn't a perfect fit replacement panel out there so I'm prepared for that.

Got the day off today so I'm gonna move the car into the shop and start cataloging everything.

Thanks!

Psevins
05-17-2012, 06:52 AM
-martx-5

Did you remove the old metal prior to lifting off or after? I've collected the needed metal for support frame just waiting on the arrival of my welder.

Tr3aguy
05-17-2012, 07:09 AM
I had a shop do that part because I wanted to make sure it was right. I left it on the frame and took the car to them.
I have heard several different versions of how to do it, but make sure you take measurements between the door pillars so you know where it goes back. Do one side at a time...
Floors (https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/630468/7)
Check some of the posts in here....several guys have great metal skills...

martx-5
05-17-2012, 09:20 AM
-martx-5

Did you remove the old metal prior to lifting off or after? I've collected the needed metal for support frame just waiting on the arrival of my welder.

I drilled most of the spot welds cut what I could while the tub was laying on the frame, but it wasn't bolted down. There were times when I would just lift it up a few inches to get at various areas. Same went for putting in the new floors. Of course, there was some work underneath that required me to roll the tub out to the driveway. I must have lifted and rolled that tub around a hundred times. If you have the room, a rotisserie would be ideal.

BTW, I found that drilling out the spot welds worked best using 3/16" cobalt split point stub drills. Some welds required a 1/4" size, but there weren't many of those. Split point drills are self-centering, cobalt lasts longer on the welds then high speed, and the stub (short) lengths don't flex or walk around.

Psevins
05-17-2012, 06:02 PM
Hmm, while tooling about with the tr3 I removed my transmission cover and saw something that made my heart sink just a bit...a quarter sized hole knocked out from the inside of my transmission...not sure what happened but it must scared the errr fecal matter out if the driver. I'll post a pic later.

Andrew Mace
05-17-2012, 09:43 PM
Hmm, while tooling about with the tr3 I removed my transmission cover and saw something that made my heart sink just a bit...a quarter sized hole knocked out from the inside of my transmission...not sure what happened but it must scared the errr fecal matter out if the driver. I'll post a pic later.
Presumably a long-ago blown clutch? Been there, done that....

Psevins
05-17-2012, 10:16 PM
https://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii120/Faldain2008/2012-05-17_20-18-18_260.jpg

Thats what I found. Things are starting to make sense though...The car hasnt been titled since 1968 and presently has 58k miles on the odometer...hopefully I can just replace the casing & rebuild the guts. Out of curiousity would a Spitfire gearbox line up right? I have one of those sitting around (well and a gt6 drive train but that might be going too far 8-))

HerronScott
05-17-2012, 10:32 PM
Sorry but a Spitfire transmission would definitely not work.

Scott

Psevins
05-17-2012, 10:37 PM
figured it wouldnt but never hurts to check :cryin:

M_Pied_Lourd
05-18-2012, 09:00 AM
Personally, I don't think that the hole in the casing is that big of an issue. I would just patch it and be done with it personally.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

CJD
05-18-2012, 09:10 AM
I agree...and if it does bother you, it can be welded easily. In fact, with the proper wire feed sleeve and an argon gas bottle, you can weld it with your MIG...

John

martx-5
05-18-2012, 09:19 AM
:iagree: Just repair the hole, even if it's just with a piece of sheet metal and a couple of machine screws...or leave it as one of it's battle scars.

mallard
05-18-2012, 09:35 AM
I have a bare housing if you want to go that route. PM me. Make sure you check and see if the housing has any cracks in it.

Psevins
05-18-2012, 11:11 AM
Thanks for the input. I wasn't sure if that could be patched or not. If that's the case then I'm not worried about how it will look since no one will have much of an occasion to see it.

bnw
05-18-2012, 05:48 PM
I wonder what let loose in the middle of the bellhousing?

Psevins
05-18-2012, 09:47 PM
Perhaps off topic but its my thread 8-). Are there any sources for rear panels? The whole thing from inner fender across. Mines a little rough on the spare tire compartment seams. Haven't gotten to that area yet so it may be salvageable but haven't been very fruit full with the Google searches thus far.

mallard
05-19-2012, 08:28 PM
Here it is

M_Pied_Lourd
05-19-2012, 09:02 PM
If you are asking about the rear valence, yes they are available.

This one came from the Roadster Factory

https://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo145/Pied_Lourd/Rear%20Valence/P1090015.jpg

Cheers,
M Pied Lourd

Psevins
05-19-2012, 09:34 PM
Ah yes, I was looking above the space you described and not on the ledge. I'll take a look tomorrow morning and verify. Thanks!

Psevins
05-19-2012, 10:32 PM
Aha, I was using their online cat. on my tablet and it would load the pages right. Switched to PC and voila much more easily found. Just realized I'm using a British tablet conversing about my LBC. Funny.