View Full Version : TR2/3/3A TR3 steering wheel and indicator

03-04-2012, 08:51 AM
I pulled the indicator to replace with a new unit. The tub in the new unit was about a foot long but when I pulled the old unit there was a copper tube from the indicator all the was to the front of the steering box. The old indicator tube was attached to this tube all the way to the front of the steering box.

Does someone have pictures of something showing how you need to re-assemble this.

I put the new indicator in and tightened the grub screws but the unit still wants to turn in the steering wheel. Shouldn't this indicator be locked in place?

Or does the horn and indicator float and spin around on the wheel?

OK did a bit more looking around and found that the tube has been modified on my car. So now the question is does the indicator spin with the wheel or always stay at 12?

What should this look like and with a new head how should it work? Any pictures and advice will be helpful.

The old unit was a pita so I don't have something to work from in how it should have looked and worked. Thanks everyone.

03-04-2012, 09:19 AM

The tube has to go all the way to the steering gear box to hold the horn/turn signal in the correct orientation.

The oringinal "stator tube" is not just a straight tube, but a steel one with two places where the tube is expanded (like the barrel of a cartoon shotgun that blew up and split) to steady it inside the large steering tube. There is a notch at the horn side of the tube for the horn assembly to key into as you install it. This notch is long enough and wide enough to accept the key on the tube behind the horn assembly.

This inner tube installs first, and comes out the end of the steering gear box. A split collar and nut are installed...loosely at this point. You then install the horn assembly - properly keyed with the turn signal striaght up, and as you push it into place, the inner stator tube is pushed out the proper distance from the end of the gearbox. You can then tighten the collar nut at the gearbox, and the set screws at the steering wheel. Once the stator is positioned, you can later pull the horn button without having to mess with the position of the stator.

Unfortunately, I don't know of anyone who carries the stator tube...


03-04-2012, 09:20 AM
OK, Update from more research.

The stator tube should have a slit in it from what I can see. PO made a tube with a cooper pipe an welded the clamp that attaches to the indicator at the tabs.

So here is what I did but I see I will need to do more work.

I cut the copper tube down 8 inches or so. I then slid the tube up inside the indicator tube but what I see I need to do now is cut a slit in the tube to look in the indicator.

How wide and long is the slit?

03-04-2012, 09:48 AM
That long tube down the center of the column is what is supposed to hold the control head from turning. There should be some dimples in the shorter tube that engage a slot in the long one. And then there is a compression fitting on the front of the steering box that locks the long (aka stator) tube from turning.

There are different ways to do this, but here is what I suggest:

Attach the wires to the control head, noting that the ring terminals have little pegs on them that engage with holes to keep them from turning and possibly shorting out. Pull the wires through the stator tube, until the end of the stator tube engages with the tube on the control head as far as it will go. Make sure the dimples engage with the slot. Use an ohmmeter or powered test light to make sure the turn & horn switches work as they should (no shorts or opens in the wires).

Put the "lantern springs" in place on the stator tube (there are tiny pips that should hold them). Center the turn mechanism (finger points down, away from the lever) and also center the steering wheel. If you have the adjustable column, move the wheel as far forward as it will go. Remove (if installed) the compression nut and sleeve from the front of the steering box.

Now slide the tube into place. Before the control head seats against the steering wheel, turn it so the operating lever points straight up (with the turn switch in the 'off' position). Push it all the way home (should be only a small, like 1/8", gap between the control head steering wheel). Tighten the 3 grub screws. Now, without turning anything, install the compression sleeve and nut onto the steering box, over the wire and stator tube. Tighten firmly.

Connect the wires and check that the turn signals and horn work as they should.

03-04-2012, 09:54 AM
Oops, guess I'm a little slow typing. Took a break for a bite of breakfast :smile:

I don't think copper will work out well in this application. The tube has to be thinner than copper usually is, and also stronger.

For a proper stator tube, try Mark Macy ( Macy's Garage (https://macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/other_tr2_3_parts.htm#TR2/3%20Stator%20Tube) ). Realey Healey used to have them too, but they appear to be gone.

03-04-2012, 09:57 AM
The oringinal "stator tube" is not just a straight tube, but a steel one with two places where the tube is expanded (like the barrel of a cartoon shotgun that blew up and split) to steady it inside the large steering tube.

I disagree on that point. The "expanded" places are actually separate parts, the "lantern springs" that I mentioned before. Stanpart 56334 (but not available new AFAIK). But they are just to keep the tube from rattling against the steering column, not really required for operation.