View Full Version : engine lifting with pedestal stud brackets

09-17-2011, 04:06 PM
I've got the brackets to lift my engine via the rocker pedestal studs.
Is this secure? Has anyone had problems with this method?


09-17-2011, 04:52 PM
Done it.... no worries. Also used rear manifold stud and generator mount stud.

Lately, though, the last 5 engines I've used tiedown straps. 1 front behind the front engine plate, and 1 rear between engine and tranny. Then I get adjustment on each strap. Easy Peasy.

Peter C

09-17-2011, 08:18 PM
Yep, that is the answer for Miss Agatha as well. Although for the last couple of pulls I have used a modified HF tilter. All it really needed to work well was some large washers.

09-18-2011, 12:46 AM
I have heard that it can be dicey...if you can leave the valve cover on to prevent the bolts from bending. I like the idea, and what I have always used, is a exhaust stud on the left side rear, and a generator bolt on the right front.
Scott in CA

09-18-2011, 06:28 AM
Every time I see a B/E with the hood off and engine out, I get jealous. On my Midget, I use the Harbor Freight tilter and a chain hoist I mounted in my garage.

09-18-2011, 06:59 AM
.........Also used rear manifold stud and generator mount stud....

Peter C

This is what I always do too.

09-18-2011, 07:52 AM
Well, it looks like others have also been suspicious those pedestal studs' ability to carry the engine's weight.
Anyone actually see damage from it?


09-18-2011, 08:23 AM
Fred, this homebrew copy of the BMC "tool" has R&R'd many dozens of A and B series engines (as noted by the wear on the hook eye), had to replace the brackets a while ago... never harmed an engine.

09-18-2011, 08:38 AM

That's just the kind of advice this forum is great for, as there is no substitute for personal experience!

I've never seen that BMC tool referenced, just the brackets. Seems like the "tool" would be much safer in that it fixes the two brackets together preventing individual "levering" on the studs. Seems easy enough to make with a threaded stud and welder.

Of course with this set up you can't use a load leveler to tilt your engine/trans to assist with installation, so I'm not sure what' easier.


09-18-2011, 08:43 AM
The leveler helps but with the single point pivot I've never had an issue tilting the engine/trans. Got to the point it took 45 minutes to have an MGB (early CB) unit out and on the stand. Better with two sets of hands but I've done it solo, too.

<span style="font-style: italic">EDIT: I had the privilege/luck to know the local BMC dealership folks, they were (and are still) friends. Saw the tool, made one patterned after it. Back in the sixties.</span>

09-18-2011, 09:11 AM
As I was digging out that tool, this one was with it. Same basic concept, this is the Lotus TC version, uses the #1 &amp; #4 plug holes. Again, many a Lotus twincam has been R&amp;R'd with it. Never damaged a head.

09-18-2011, 11:04 AM
Yeah, Doc. I also have several of those types of tools left over from the '60's. In one of the shops I worked for, the shop foreman had built a device to turn brake disc's. Large metal lathe, grinding wheel, LaSalle transmission. A real Rube Goldberg affire but it worked quite well.

09-19-2011, 08:21 AM
LaSalle tranny! :lol: One of my pals "automated" his Bridgeport milling machine with a Hydra-matic.

By the way, that BMC look-alike was made with 0.750" bar stock, threaded the ends and 0.250" plate for the lift eye. <span style="font-style: italic">Much</span> beefier than the BMC version. :wink:

09-19-2011, 12:14 PM
Sprung for a Oberg Tilt Lift. Pricey but one of the best shop investments I've made!


09-20-2011, 09:38 PM
That Oberg Tilt Lift looks interesting, but I already have a HF load leveler. Is is substantially better?


09-20-2011, 09:49 PM
More expensive!! I'm sure its quicker though it does the same job. If you used a air rachet on the HF you would accomplish the same thing and if I were making the Oberg I could improve it, but I like it. I'd make a provision to hold it steady while adjusting the tilt and I would change the cleats at the cable ends. Mainly make it easier to operate one handed so your other hand can be used to guide the engine.


09-22-2011, 02:00 PM
I've used both the Oberg and the load leveler. Warning about the Oberg: While using it, I left my 1/2 inch rachet in it, so I could use both hands to wiggle the engine around. The engine lurched, jerking the cables and threw my 1/2 inch rachet over into the windshield of my B 10 feet away. Cost me a new windshield.

09-29-2011, 08:33 PM
Can the engine be installed with the tranny in car? (tranny is not bolted down yet)

09-29-2011, 09:11 PM
Yes it can but it is easier to install as a unit.

09-29-2011, 10:09 PM
Sometimes it is a real bear to get the engine hooked up to the tranny when it is in the car.

However, I have done it many times so, your choice.

09-30-2011, 08:09 AM
Done it.... no worries. Also used rear manifold stud and generator mount stud.

Lately, though, the last 5 engines I've used tiedown straps. 1 front behind the front engine plate, and 1 rear between engine and tranny. Then I get adjustment on each strap. Easy Peasy.

Peter C

Took your advice, worked like a charm. Engine and trans were in the car in 15 minutes.


09-30-2011, 01:17 PM
Mine also in... been a long time.

09-30-2011, 09:55 PM
Gonna look really nice. Just love clean engine rooms.