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George Zeck
09-13-2011, 04:04 PM
Hi Guys -

I've been away for awhile and have decided to get a jump on the 'seasonal' repairs before Febuary and 0 degree's in my garage.

I looked at ebay for front springs --- nothing but used springs (which I already have). Any knowledge if any other car would fit? I could order from Moss @ $110 ea (approx) but they're a place of last resort in my opinion due to quality.

Also, which poundage (?) should I use (it's a driver not a racer)?

Also doing the ususal suspects (bushings, bolts, etc).

Tx-

George
1964 AH Sprite MK II

RickB
09-13-2011, 04:54 PM
I got a used set of fronts from a 67 Sprite and put them on my 78.
This lowered it just a little, the 1500 springs are taller and stronger.
The biggest improvement I've made on that car for suspension was the new bushings and front shocks from Peter C. of World Wide Imports.
https://www.nosimport.com/shoxcatalog.htm

It's nice just to call up and ask for Peter and have him give you personal service, or order online if that's what you like.

My front shocks were dead so all my ride was provided by the springs.
Bouncy would be one way of putting it.

bugedd
09-13-2011, 08:18 PM
I put the springs on that spridetmania offers, they are 340lb if I recall. I really like the way they ride, not harsh but better balanced than the old stock ones. They lowered the car a bit, no rubbing or clearance issues reported, and I drive the heck out of the car.

George Zeck
09-14-2011, 04:33 PM
I actually bought the Moss ones through a reseller. Less expensive than I orig thought. Hope the quality is there. Then again, compaing to a 47 year old springs with rotten bushings. The proverbial bnar is pretty low.

Thanks -

Geo

nomad
09-14-2011, 08:09 PM
Those 340# springs are fully an inch shorter than 1275 springs. I bought cause Moss claims they lower the car a "bit" and I wanted to get in on one of there discounts. I havn't fitted them cause an inch shorter I suspect will be more than a "bit".
Bugedd, can you take a guess at how much lower they are???

Kurt.

bugedd
09-15-2011, 09:37 AM
The car is sitting about 1" lower. It puts the wheels perfectly centered in the wheel arches, so the reveal all the way around is equal.

Trevor Jessie
09-15-2011, 09:49 AM
They are an inch shorter, but they are stiffer, so the lowering ends up being about an inch (instead of the 2" you might assume). I recently removed mine from my Midget as I want it to be more of a comfort ride.

leecreek
09-15-2011, 11:28 AM
340's on here.

nomad
09-15-2011, 06:42 PM
Thanks guys, I figured the stiffer spring rate may account for a little less lowering and the pics make it appear they are just right as far as height goes.
Now, Trevor has me scared as to ride! I know he likes a spirited drive. I guess I will just have to give them a try and decide for myself.

Kurt.

George Zeck
09-16-2011, 08:04 AM
I have aspiration sto have them in within the end of next week. I'll report back. The sizing does look better but the comments about the stiffer ride scares me a bit. Then again, with the way I drive it ......

Trevor Jessie
09-16-2011, 08:11 AM
The ride was was OK. And they (along with some other changes) helped the handling of the car. However, after I started driving the Sprite, I decided that I'd use it for spirited driving and turn the Midget into a more pleasurable cruising car.

Don't forget to reset your toe-in after installing the springs.

TulsaFred
09-19-2011, 10:33 AM
Guys,
my Haynes manual says that to remove the front coil springs on my B/E I should buy some longer fully threaded bolts (4.5 inch minimum), then remove two bolts from the spring seat and replace with the long bolts. Then remove the other two regular bolts, and slowly back out the long bolts until all spring tension is taken away. Then apparently the spring comes right out through the bottom spring seat hole.
I haven't looked under the car yet, but is this how it's done?

Fred

nomad
09-19-2011, 12:04 PM
Yep, unless you're braver than Dick Tracy. Then you would undo the top trunnion bolt with jack under the bottom spring pan. Lower the jack and let the spring fly!! Not recommended but used by some.

Kurt.

nomad
09-19-2011, 12:05 PM
Yep, unless you're braver than Dick Tracy. Then you would undo the top trunnion bolt with jack under the bottom spring pan. Lower the jack and let the spring fly!! Not recommended but used by some.

Kurt.

bugedd
09-19-2011, 12:46 PM
I used a jack under the spring pan and lowered them out and it went just fine.

RickB
09-19-2011, 12:47 PM
There are several ways to do this, one is the one you described with the longer bolts.

I've had mine in & out several times and this is what I do - YMMV:

Jack up car and put jack stands under the swivel pin end of the A arm.
Then I use a small jack under the spring pan, removing the tension from the spring but only slightly - not enough to raise up from the jack stand.
Undo the bolts then lower the spring pan and spring by letting off the jack under the spring pan. Others have said before that sometimes the spring will stick and then you have to "kick" it but that's not my experience.

Having two sizes of floor jack makes many things easier, I have a small cheapo floor jack that's good for stuff like this and a big 3 ton jack I use for 'big' stuff like lifting up the family van.

jlaird
09-19-2011, 03:21 PM
I have done it for 30 years that way, never a prob.

TulsaFred
09-19-2011, 05:58 PM
I have done it for 30 years that way, never a prob.

Which way, Jack, the long bolts?

Thanks all
Fred

RickB
09-19-2011, 07:30 PM
I have done it for 30 years that way, never a prob.

Which way, Jack, the long bolts?

Thanks all
Fred

Jack told me how to do this a long time ago, the method I described (take or give a little) was how Jack said to do it.

TulsaFred
09-19-2011, 08:55 PM
Thanks Rick, if it's worked for you and Jack's done it for 30 years that's good enough for me!

Now, how about reinstalling them?

Fred

nomad
09-19-2011, 09:39 PM
I've used the long bolt method and been advised against doing it any other way so I guess I'm not experienced in the jack method. I use an air rachet on the bolts that makes it a quick way of doing it both out and in. Remember there is a lot of energy stored in those springs!

Kurt.

JPSmit
09-19-2011, 09:42 PM
Thanks Rick, if it's worked for you and Jack's done it for 30 years that's good enough for me!

Now, how about reinstalling them?

Fred

reverse of above - insert spring and raise jack. I had to kick in the spring. And this doesn't work unless the engine is installed or you have gravitationally advantaged friends.

TulsaFred
09-19-2011, 09:48 PM
The bolts in my spring seat are corroded so I went to Lowe's to buy new replacements. They carry Grade 5 and Grade 8 bolts matching the size (5/16" x 1") of the old ones, but the threads on the old bolts are finer, perhaps 24 tpi, while Lowes only has them in 18 tpi.

Any need for the finer threads?
Grade 5 good enough?

Fred

drooartz
09-19-2011, 10:18 PM
Most every bolt on a Spridget is fine thread, and most are grade 5. I used grade 8 on the Tunebug for no real reason other than I could (okay, the yellow zinc coating is cool). Get the fine thread would be my recommend. Decent hardware store should stock them.

When I redid the front suspension I did use the long bolt method -- still have the bolts in my tool box just in case. Maybe not as fast, but very controllable and worked like a charm.

Billm
09-19-2011, 10:59 PM
I would DEFINITELY use the fine thread, grade 5 or better.
If a course thread starts to loosen it comes off fairly fast, a fine thread tends to stay on longer. The pans are not a place that you check very often!
BillM
Go to a nut & bolt place, not Lowes. Ace hardware is usually good too.

RickB
09-20-2011, 12:12 AM
True Value also, and of course NAPA should have them.

Pythias
09-20-2011, 07:53 AM
Guys,
my Haynes manual says that to remove the front coil springs on my B/E I should buy some longer fully threaded bolts (4.5 inch minimum), then remove two bolts from the spring seat and replace with the long bolts. Then remove the other two regular bolts, and slowly back out the long bolts until all spring tension is taken away. Then apparently the spring comes right out through the bottom spring seat hole.
I haven't looked under the car yet, but is this how it's done?

Fred

Installation is the reverse of the stated procedure.

jlaird
09-20-2011, 10:21 PM
JP has my spring removal and replace system down pat.

Is easy and fast and safe,

JPSmit
09-21-2011, 06:44 AM
JP has my spring removal and replace system down pat.

Is easy and fast and safe,
:iagree: :cheers:

john_j
09-22-2011, 01:51 AM
Axle stands (quite high) under the chassis, trolley jack under the outer end of the wishbone, remove top trunnion bolt, gently lower the jack. No problems.

It's a bit tight getting the wishbone down far enough to get the spring out, but it comes out.

If you're a wuss you could put spring compressors on first, but there's so space for the spring to boing out and hit you because the upstands in the spring pan and top mount won't let it escape.

I used the long bolt method the first time but it takes forever to wind it all the way down.

Jim_Gruber
09-22-2011, 06:43 AM
An air powered ratchet makes it go really quickly.

RickB
09-22-2011, 09:05 AM
Axle stands (quite high) under the chassis, trolley jack under the outer end of the wishbone, remove top trunnion bolt, gently lower the jack. No problems.

It's a bit tight getting the wishbone down far enough to get the spring out, but it comes out.

If you're a wuss you could put spring compressors on first, but there's so space for the spring to boing out and hit you because the upstands in the spring pan and top mount won't let it escape.

I used the long bolt method the first time but it takes forever to wind it all the way down.

I did too, and I used an air ratchet to wind it down and it still took too long.
The key is to slowly take the pressure off the spring.