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View Full Version : Question about Moss Tube Shock Conversion (pic)



Miser
07-17-2011, 11:13 PM
I have the tub off my TR6 and I was going to install Moss' tube shock conversion but I was reading in the instructions that I have to drill holes in the trunk floor. Should I wait to install the tube conversion until I put the tub back on or can I do it now.

https://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll1/Fiderbooze/TubeShock001.jpg

HerronScott
07-18-2011, 02:24 AM
The second bracket (1b?) in their instructions is inside the trunk so I would say yes you have to wait to install this conversion until after you have the body mounted back on the frame.

Scott

hondo402000
07-18-2011, 05:03 AM
I was going to install a conversion on my 6 a few years ago, and after reading all the information i would find, I read that the kit that you have to drill thru the body and use part of the body as a mounting point will start working on the body and eventually can crack your body pannels. and the other kits acts like a long lever on the mounting bracket and eventually rips the bracket loose, So in the end I just had my lever shocks rebuilt and stayed away from the tube conversions. plus the stiffer the shock the sooner your problems will begin


Hondo

martx-5
07-18-2011, 07:17 AM
Another alternative is Ratco's shock in coil conversion. (https://www.rat-co.com/coil%20overshconversKit.html)

poolboy
07-18-2011, 07:47 AM
What's the advantage of a tube shock over a lever in good condition ?
Seems like the geometry of the TA's movement (arc-like) makes it better suited for the ball and socket joint on the lever arm.

TR3driver
07-18-2011, 12:24 PM
What's the advantage of a tube shock over a lever in good condition ?
Mostly that tube shocks are cheaper and readily available with more damping than the original lever shocks. The lever shocks can be retuned for more damping of course, but lots of people seem to prefer "bolt on" modifications.

Got_All_4
07-18-2011, 09:01 PM
I too like HONDO402000 was going to do the conversion to my TR250. However seeing the results of the long arm typeS ripping frames apart turned me off big time on that style. If I was going to do it I would pick the type that you did. The shock would stay stationary and the shock / vibration would go through the frame and body. What I read did not say anything about cracking the body panels. You could strengthen around the brackets too and I would place a rubber gasket between all the brackets that mount to the body.

You don't ever know what the unintentional consequences are but you made the better choice and yes you do have to wait until you mount the body back on the frame.

DanB
07-19-2011, 09:25 AM
Or this:
https://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/103.php?s_wt=1680&s_ht=1050

rooster
07-22-2011, 04:57 PM
I've had the "through the trunk" tube shock set up for almost 15 years and not had a problem with it. Car was daily driven every day to commute to work for 6 months of the year. I did try to avoid pot holes though and made sure that the bolts were well torqued from time to time.

Cheers

BobbyD
07-22-2011, 06:23 PM
I had the Moss equivalent kit on my car for 11 years and there was absolutely no wear & tear on the body panels at all. The holes are still perfectly round and the same size as when originally drilled.

Now as far as the other Moss/TRF/Blind Moose kit goes, you best have a frame in excellent shape with particular attention paid to the old lever shock mounting point. There are documented cases of that shock kit destroying the mount point if it wasn't in excellent shape. Even if the shock mount is perfect you should still install an added brace. Pictures of both kits are posted on my site......... (https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BlindMoose.htm)

This is the body panel mounting point for the Moss kit you have.

https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Blind%20Moose/OldBracketHoles.jpg