View Full Version : TR6 TR 6 Body tub Removal

06-11-2011, 06:08 PM
To any one who has removed a body tub from frame how much time should it take and how bad is it? I've done a couple of Tr3's and MGA'S but not a 6. Trying to decide on rust repair or swapping tubs.

06-11-2011, 07:16 PM
There's a good bit of work involved, if you do a search for the frame off restoration thread that I started on this forum (should be back just a couple pages at the moment) i've got a good play by play of the tear down of my tr6. It took me a few weekends to really get to the point of lifting the tub off.

06-11-2011, 09:38 PM
It's "only" 27 bolts (or thereabouts) but some of them will be tough to pull. Don't worry if you break a couple; they are easy to drill out and re-tap after you take everything apart. All of the tough British metal went into the fasteners, not the body panels and frames!

It helps to have an overhead pulley, or a large engine hoist, or 5 strong friends to help you lift the tub off the frame. Be sure to run braces at the tops of the door openings -- chances are your floors and sills won't be strong enough to stay straight.

Watch out for odds and ends like emergency brake cables and brake lines. Go slow when you start lifting the tub!

Once you remove the tub you can get a really good look at the top of the forward differential mount. It's hard to inspect it properly from underneath. The front suspension mounts can be ugly, too.

It's been more than a decade since I did mine, so I'm sure I've forgotten some important stuff.

Pulling a TR frame and tub apart is a fairly big hassle, but one that is not beyond the skills and patience of a competent hobbyist. It's the best way to get everything done up right if you have the time, space, and $$$.

06-12-2011, 03:56 PM
Depending on how far you strip it down, you may not need 4 or 5 friends to help you lift the tub off... Minus wings, doors, bonnet, boot lid, interior, etc., the tub itself is not real heavy. When I was about 24 I carried the tub of my TR4A about 100 yards by myself to get it into the barn. Oh yeah, the windscreen was off too.
The last time I had it off, my brother Jim and I did it with all the winds, doors, lids etc. still attached, but we used a hoist that time.

It's pretty easy really.

Dan B

06-12-2011, 05:02 PM
I was actually planning on keeping most parts on the body and using a hoist. Thought that would be the quickest and easiest. I'm not too concerned at this point in pulling everything off.

06-21-2011, 04:19 PM
I'm in the same boat. I don't have a hoist and not lot of room especially over head for a hoist. I've seen a variation of my plan but it was more of and after the body is off device to move the body around. But my idea is to make a frame out of 2X10 that goes under the body outside of the frame attach points and fastened at both ends with 2X10s. Then making a stair steps setup out of plywood and 2X4s with 10" risers, two at each end so as to put the jack between them. After removing the engine and trans and any other things like the bumpers and E brake connections. The plan then is to put the frame on Concrete blocks and remove the suspension to give clearance for the wooden frame. Then place uprights with padding in the wheel wells screwed to the 2X10 to support the front and rear sections. Then start jacking up one end 10 inches at a time and slide the steps under the frame. Then repeat at the other end until you have it up high enough to clear the frame. Then make some legs to the frame and attach some large casters to the bottom of the legs and roll the body away and park it in the drive way while I swap the frame. This way I can keep as much of the car together and not have to weld supports in the doors.

06-25-2011, 04:16 PM

That's a lot of work to avoid door supports. I welded mine but you can screw them in using the convertible top holes and the holes forward of the doors. Remember that without the doors our cars will just fold up.

2X10's are really overkill. 2X6's would work fine if placed with the 2-by part vertical. Our cars are really not that solid. The sheetmetal is about 22 gauge - you will be shocked when you start cutting it.

Two average men can easily lift a stripped tub and four could handle one with everything installed. Until mine was painted I lifted it myself using a cheap $99 Harbor Freight engine hoist.

I know many are scared of taking the tub off but it is not hard and it is the best way to do frame and differential mount repairs. Once it is off you have SO much access. Just remember you now need two garage bays and an understanding wife.


06-25-2011, 10:02 PM
Here's mine being lowered back onto the finshed frame and a pic of the dolly I made to move the body.

06-26-2011, 12:07 AM
I'd look good with my heals next to that Elliot

06-26-2011, 09:21 AM
Thanks don... I have a game tonight and now I'll have that thought in my head :pukeface: