View Full Version : 67 Sprite Starter

04-25-2011, 09:08 AM
I am having an issue with the starter on my 67 Sprite. The starting gear does not pull in to the flywheel. The motor spins freely but the gear does not ingage. I pulled it out over the weekend and it seemed a little sticky so we cleaned it up and put a little spray lub on it. It seemed to work a lot better after that. I reinstalled the strater and it worked took the car out for a drive turned it off and the gear would not ingage again. Any ideas would be great

04-25-2011, 09:25 AM
No lube. It's meant to be dry. That may be the problem... or not.

Peter C

04-25-2011, 12:03 PM
I ran into the same thing recently. It does need to spin at high speed to develop enough energy to spin out the Bendix. When you took it out, did it spin at a very high rate of speed? If not, you either need new brushes and or/ you may have a worn out commutator. There is an inspection cover (the metal band at the rear of the starter) slip that off and have a look.

Another issue for an intermittent starter is the post where you attach the cable. If that's been tightened and loosened a number of time without a second wrench to hold the post from turning, even a little, it can break or make a marginal connection.

04-26-2011, 11:04 AM
I did seem to spin at high speed, but I did notice that there was some play in the shaft. I could move it back and forth a little bit would that be because of bad brushes. All of the connections are good that is the first thing we checked. Is there a way to test the communicator which I am guessing is the black button that you can push to turn over the motor.

04-26-2011, 11:57 AM
Starter bushing should be .005 clearance; they are self lubricating oil impregnation bushing. As far as lubing the starter drive, use powder graphite of molybdenum disulfide. If there is any oil that has been built up on your drive it would be wise to clean the starter drive and blow dry before applying the any lube. The shaft will have about .010 movement back and forth there is a washer and snap ring that sets the end play for the armature. Commutator is checked with a special magnetic machine while the armature is sitting in it being turned slowly to see if theirs a short between the windings. Your black button that you push to spin the starter motor is your starter solenoid. It would be best while you have your starter off to have it freshen up or even replace if you do not have anyone in your location that has the parts and testing equipment to freshen your starter up.

05-09-2011, 07:18 AM
So I had the started rebuilt at my local Britsh car shop. go to put the starter in with same results, car starts twice then the strater dosn't engage the motor just spins. we tested volts to the solenoid it was 11.5 and we tested to the strater post also 11.5. I think my next step will be order a new starter and make new cable to run from the solenoid, just to elminate that as a possiablity.
Unless anyone has any other ideas?

05-09-2011, 08:09 AM
If you're getting 11.5 volts before the starter, it sounds like a weak battery or connections/cables.

Is your engine well-grounded? Are all connections clean and tight? What's the voltage directly at your battery? Is the car charging properly? (decent generator and fan belt?)

A burned solonoid can have enough resistance to "eat up" volts. In some cases, the starter will spin pretty fast but not fast enough to "kick out" the Bendix gear.

05-27-2011, 08:30 AM
Well still at it with this starter and just ordered a new one. I have a good battery, new solonoid, new battery cables. Same reuslt car starts twice and then the starter motor just spins not engaging the bendix. I have tried putting the car in gear and pushing to move the flywheel thinking maybe there was a dead spot in it, that did nothing. Not sure what the next step will be if the new starter dosn't fix the issue.

05-27-2011, 09:18 AM
Well, at this point you can be pretty sure it's not the starter.

If you are getting only 11.5V out of the battery, with no load, you don't have a good battery, or at least it's not well charged. And, the fact that it will start OK a couple times, then not, is consistent with this. You might try just putting a charger on the battery and making sure it really is fully charged, or, even better, jump it from another car. If that works, the next job is to replace the battery or figure out why it's not charging well.

Also, even new cables can get corroded or have a bad connection.

05-27-2011, 09:55 AM
we get 12.7 volts at the battery 11.5 at the starter and soloniod with a load.