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Bob Hughes
04-04-2011, 01:34 AM
Ok this is for all you BJ7 guys and them that know as well.

I have stripped out my hood sticks to straighten some of the sections and repaint it and whilst at a Healey meeting I took some photos of one that was refurbed.

Refurbed unit
https://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k12/Bouncinbob_2006/IMG_1038resized.jpg


Straightening out my unit
https://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k12/Bouncinbob_2006/IMG_1042resized.jpg

Now the problem is that on the BJ7 the rear bow is not just a channel as in the BJ8, it is a channel with a flat section on one edge, my unit shows the flat section pointing to the rear whilst on the refurbed one, it is pointing to the front. Which way is correct?


Bob

stevebn2bj7
04-04-2011, 08:52 AM
I believe that yours is correct. That channel is for the rear window clips and I do not see how it could possible work the way that the refurb'd one is assembled.

Johnny
04-04-2011, 12:35 PM
Hi Bob, I too own a BJ7, mine is a '63 model. Does your's have the two clamps for the rear window?

BTW on my car the top bracket that sits above the frame is painted gray not black as in your photo. Also I don't think there were screws holding it in place. Here's a link to view the resto book I produced on "picaboo".

BJ7 restoration (https://app.picaboo.com/WebView/Project.aspx?clientID=bed5717b1bb0a7347aa2139231ba dee1&version=101523&siteID=ViaPreview)

I hope this helps.

Bob Hughes
04-04-2011, 02:19 PM
Thanks Guys

I figured that my way was correct, only because some how it supports the rear window. My soft top has a zipper window so I do not use the bow for support. There are no clips to be seen, just the three lugs, one centre and one each end. My bow was pop riveted on with flat head rivets, the refurb one was screwed, that was going to be my next question, but I guess that has been answered now.

I am in the process of painting the frame grey, I decided to use a 2K paint and brush it on 'cause I have no breathing kit for spraying, not the best but I am getting there. Darn tough paint though, wish that i could spray the wings ( fenders) with it but I am limited to cellulose, unless some one can point me in the direction of a friendly hard paint.

Bob



Bob

Johnny
04-04-2011, 05:44 PM
Hi Bob, I used rustoleum "Dove Grey" looks pretty original. Make sure you clean the frame either through dipping or sandblasting first, then use a good primer.

Bob Hughes
04-05-2011, 02:49 AM
:crazyeyes:

Thanks for the heads up Jonny but it's too late for the hood frame, she's done apart from some fettling. Would Rustoleum do for the body parts- fenders and things? instead of celly?

Bob

John Turney
04-05-2011, 08:33 PM
:crazyeyes:

Thanks for the heads up Jonny but it's too late for the hood frame, she's done apart from some fettling. Would Rustoleum do for the body parts- fenders and things? instead of celly?

Bob

a) "fettling" is a new one for me.

b) Rustoleum wouldn't be used for body parts that you would want to be shiny. It's the kind of paint one would use on small parts or by a poor teenager on a beater.

elrey
04-05-2011, 11:15 PM
Bob, are you hip to putting the spray cans in hot water for awhile before spraying? It can make all the difference. -- elrey

Bob Hughes
04-06-2011, 03:12 AM
Hi Elrey

Yes I am wise to that one, but spray cans? I use the real deal, 3HP compressor and several guns, still I could stick the pot into hot water before applying, havn't tried that. I also like to get the part warm if poss, the rear fender was warmed in the sun before spraying, nearly got it to be finished straight off the gun.
The hood bow is a different matter with 2K paints and isocyanates, not a practical solution for home spraying, hence the brush on and that's bad enough. :nonono:
One heck of a finish though, real shiny and as hard as nails.

Fettling - rubbing down the not so good bits and touching in. Did a great job with the tonneau rail whilst I was at it - where it had been scratched - can't see the join. :thumbsup:

Oh by the way, any one have a take on the fixing of the soft top to the rear hood stick? I am guessing that the flap of material wraps around the rear hood stick from the back before being clamped by the bow, that way it does not come into contact with the webbing running to the front.

Bob

Bob

elrey
04-06-2011, 04:01 AM
Did not know your setup Bob. Never can tell with you foreigners. :thirsty: Thought perhaps you were using cans. The hot water trick sure improves the flow, Wouldn't necessarily suggest it for conventional spray gun work. I was lucky to snag, for a pittance, a supplied air mask and carbon vaned air pump from a guy who was quitting the aircraft resto. business. I originally purchased it for applying toxic wood finishes, after a scary experience with my standard respirator. It is going to come in handy when I paint my Healey this summer. You are right, you cannot be too safe around these chemicals. Especially the isocyanates. Glad to hear you are keeping things in fine fettle! I know zip about BJ7s, but wish you luck. --elrey

Johnny
04-07-2011, 09:13 AM
Hi again Bob, yes you're correct about folding the material down and around the "U" shaped clip. It is secured with similar clips used for the seat fabric. However, on the top there is another "U" shaped fur strip, similar to the door strips, that goes around the U shaped clip holding the top fabric. The purpose of that strip, besides making it look more tidy, is that when the rear window is folded down and then the top is lowered that fur strip protects the rear window from getting scratched. Many people forget that strip and end up with a scratched rear window.

:cheers:

Bob Hughes
04-08-2011, 08:57 AM
Thanks Johnny

I think that I have taken it all in, I assume that the material is clipped to the front edge of the U channel of the bow and the fur material is slipped over the back edge of the bow, if I sketch a section through perhaps you could say if I have it correc, it will be a few days I expect.

As a matter of interest where did you get the info on the fur material, does it have the rubber bulb attached or is it just plain fur in a U, it is not shown on either the SC Parts or the AH Spares catalogues?

Bob

Bob Hughes
04-11-2011, 01:38 AM
Jonny

If I have read you right, a section through the rear bow, after fitting would look something like this sketch ( I'm no artist). I have left out the webbing for clarity. Is that what you were describing?

https://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k12/Bouncinbob_2006/rearbowandhood.jpg

Bob

Johnny
04-11-2011, 08:46 AM
Thanks Johnny

As a matter of interest where did you get the info on the fur material, does it have the rubber bulb attached or is it just plain fur in a U, it is not shown on either the SC Parts or the AH Spares catalogues?

Bob

It was on the original top for my BJ7. It's the U shaped furry stuff you use around the lower portion of the dash on early cars. It doesn't have the rubber bulb, just a U shape.

Johnny
04-11-2011, 08:47 AM
Yes, you are correct.

Johnny
04-11-2011, 08:54 AM
Jonny

If I have read you right, a section through the rear bow, after fitting would look something like this sketch ( I'm no artist). I have left out the webbing for clarity. Is that what you were describing?

https://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k12/Bouncinbob_2006/rearbowandhood.jpg

Bob

Maybe I misread the photo but I think the material is long enough to bring down and wrap around the U shaped bracket then clip and put the fur strip over the clips.