View Full Version : TR6 Removing TR6 Body Panels

12-20-2004, 08:28 AM
Anyone have experience removing body panels from a TR6? I'm wanting to do some paint prep work, but don't really have the space to do the entire car in my shop. But, I was thinking last night that I may be able to remove each panel, prep each panel in my shop, and then replace it on the car. However, if the panels are imposible to get on and off the car I'll go the traditional route.

Simon TR4a
12-20-2004, 09:16 AM
It should be pretty simple as the fenders, bonnet, boot lid, doors and front and rear valances and winshield all unbolt.
I presume you would then prep the bodyshell and panels, paint and reassemble.

12-20-2004, 09:30 AM
Yes. It seems that it would be simple to remove the panels - I've spent some time looking around the car and it seems the panels would easily come off and on. I haven't decided on actually painting each panel; right now I'm thinking of just doing the prep work and replacing the panel on the car (though I would like to someday say that I painted the car).

Has anyone actually painted each panel and then replaced it? That would be the only way that I could actually paint the car without a proper paint booth type facility.

Also, what about the rocker panels below the doors? I would probably have to prep (and possibly paint) those in place on the car, eh?

12-20-2004, 10:06 AM
Cain, just like Simon Says, you will get a much better job if all is painted in parts, just be careful when putting it all back together. The only panel that will give you some pain will be the front wings (fenders) if they have never been removed before there is a small weld right at the seam of the head light bucket that will need to be cut with a Dremel. I've seen a few that were chiselled off and it made a mess. As far as painting small peices outside, you can make a small plastic booth and there are alot of ways to get around the dust problem but none as good as a booth. Wayne

12-20-2004, 11:03 AM
Thanks for the info guys.


What about rewelding the front wing? Is there a way to fasten it without messing up the paint job? I figure welding would hurt the paint.

Yes - I have a deck out back with a concrete porch underneath it. It is walled on three sides. I figure on coating the area with visqueen and that should work.

12-20-2004, 11:11 AM
Taking the wings, bonnet, boot off is a great way to strip, prime and overcoat in all the areas that just aren't accessable as a whole. Also a great way to get at that hidden rust that lurks in all those dark crevices. Beware, as stated above, reassembling the darn thing as a finished paint job and not get scratches and nicks is virtually impossible. Pre-paint all panels, do a final assembly (may need someone good with a tig welder) then do a final spray for the flawless look you will want. This ain't no AMT model.


12-20-2004, 02:55 PM
The only panel that will give you some pain will be the front wings (fenders) if they have never been removed before there is a small weld right at the seam of the head light bucket that will need to be cut with a Dremel.

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None of the 3 later model TR6's that I have dismantled were welded near the headlamp as you mention. I know that 2 of these had never had the wings removed previously and the 3rd sure looked like it did when it came out of the factory. There is a short strap that is welded to the wing but the other end is bolted to either the front valance or inner fender (I do not recall which) that can not be seen until the headlamp bucket is removed. This strap is already welded to new wings when purchased.

Biggest problem I had was that on one of the cars the front wing and sill had rusted together so badly they could have been welded! Neither the wing nor the sill showed any other signs of rust, but both were so bad they needed to be replaced.

12-20-2004, 03:10 PM
Cain, not much way to weld back the fender without blistering the paint, most don't bother but you can tint it with solder in both places before putting it back then touch the edge with the iron, may not need but a dab of paint. Wayne

12-21-2004, 06:48 AM
most don't bother

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Are you saying that it doesn't need to be welded at all?

12-21-2004, 11:39 AM

Is this the weld that you are speaking of???

This strap is welded to the front wing, but it is bolted to the inner fender on the other end. The threaded end of the upper bolt for the bonnet hinge protrudes about an inch past the keeper nut. This bolt is then used as a stud to attach the strap to the inner fender. Without this attachment, the inner portion of the front wing is not supported properly.

12-21-2004, 02:47 PM
trrstr2000 is right, except it is a spot of braze in the seam between the fender and the f valance, not on all but some. Also on the rear fender at the rocker in the joint,mostly on the pass side, not all but some. Hey, this was a production car, and a triumph to boot.

12-21-2004, 04:16 PM
Complicating things when doing a complete spray job on a TR6, mine has an undercoat under all fender wells (wing wells doesn't sound right) that is virtually impossible to remove. Got enough out to see that there was no air or moisture, hence no rust, so I just sprayed right over (or actually overlapped with paint) then just touched up the undercoat. All the above points - solder, brase, weld - point to the fact that reassembling a TR6 and expecting a gorgeous paint job afterwards is not gonna happen. Point made to get your spray man to overspray or final coat the whole car intact. A good tape man can do this as good as factory. Knowing that your roadster is rust-free, well primed (very important) and professionally sprayed lets you sleep at night. Putting the engine, wiring, interior, etc. back then becomes a labour of love. It must be the Christmas season, I'm getting all teary eyed and sentimental. I think I need a new project car. But might need a new wife.


12-21-2004, 04:34 PM
Bill, I understand completely. I had to take this week off because I wasn't spending enough time with my Triumph. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

My wife didn't find that statement nearly as funny as the guys at the office did... but they all think I'm a nut for messing with this thing anyway.


12-21-2004, 04:50 PM
Yellowdag, the one's I have done were both early model and at the very top of the wing where it comes apart and one even had it on the bottom of the same seam. These may have been done by someone else but neither wing had the bracing bar you show. If I ever do another one I sure will be on the lookout for it, but then again it may have been on the ones I did, been about 7 years since I did a TR6. Thanks, Wayne

Ok, went back and checked mine as it was the last one I did and sure enough it has the straps attacked to one of the bolts
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif on the hood hinge, old age is ****. Wayne

01-03-2005, 01:21 AM
I repainted my 74 in a one-car garage so it is doable. I painted the hood, trunk lid and doors off of the car and mounted them after they were painted.

I did take off the rear fenders, but just so I could clean up the seams (remove rust, replace a few bolts, and prime the inside "lips" of the seam). I mounted them to the body and sealed the seams before applying the finish. The front fenders were aligned perfectly on my car and there's just that really short seam at the front, so they didn't seem worth the trouble to remove.

The car's pretty small, so I painted the tub in two steps -- front and back -- and just shifted it forward or backwards in my garage to give myself access. There's a nice accomodating seam that runs down the rocker panels at the b post that allows you to hide the seam between the two passes.

I've posted a few pics at https://home.mindspring.com/~the5coopers/ to give you an idea.

Good Luck...


01-03-2005, 12:06 PM
Thanks, Dwayne. Just knowing others out there have done this helps me!! Your car is looking great.

I've got the bonnet and boot lids off and I'm in the process of removing all the trim and lights right now. I'm totally stoked about painting the car, but I may need to wait 'til it warms up a little (unfortunately). The guy at the auto paint store told me not to paint below 70F. But, that gives me plenty of time to prep all the panels.

01-03-2005, 07:24 PM
Removing body panels Depending on which side you want off first, let my daughter back it out of the garage for you.

01-03-2005, 10:45 PM
Cain, when you clean up the insides of wings and prime, take the time to give them a good coat of paint, even if it's out of a spray bomb can, just get it from the same place you will be getting your final coat so it's compatable. Primer is a very porus paint that will suck up moisture if not sealed with a paint. Oh, by the way, great looking car Mr DCooper and I have used the little seam myself. Wayne

01-07-2005, 12:58 PM
I started removing the panels last night. Anybody out there know if the front valance, rear valance, rear deck, and rockers are bolted or welded on the TR6? I haven't inspected it that closely yet, but when I took off the rear wings I didn't see any exposed bolts for any of the rear items mentioned above. (Maybe the 30 years of gunk is currently holding my rear valence on. I have all the bolts out of the rear fenders.)

Also, I looked on the mossmotors.com site and only see bolts sold for the fenders (wings). Looking on the TRF website I saw that the rear deck they sell is welded on.


Simon TR4a
01-07-2005, 04:49 PM
Cain the front valance will unbolt, but you must unbolt and remove the front wings, bumper and grille first.
The rear valance is made up of 3 pieces but I think the whole assembly is welded in place.(Not sure as I don't have a TR6 anymore)
Rockers and rear deck are welded, and form part of the inner body tub. If these panels are ok leave them in place as reference points for reassembly.

01-07-2005, 06:24 PM

The front and rear wings, bulkhead sealer plates and the bonnet/boot lids are the only bolt-on pieces. Everything else is welded. Both the front and rear valances are welded to the inner fenders on each side. There are 3 (I think) bolts from the lower front valance to the front wings, these are down low below the bonnet hinge mounting point, and if I remember correctly, the heads are on the valance side with nuts welded on the wing side.

The bulkhead sealers can be a real bear to remove as the bolt heads are/were sprayed with that thick hardened sealer that Triumph used.

When you get the front wings off, you will find a rubber hose that drains the scuttle plenum into the cavity formed by the wing, the bulkhead sealer, the bulkhead and the top of the outer sill. This was not one of Triumph's better ideas as it is a great place for rust to start. Rerouting this tube to drain elsewhere is a worthwhile endeavor.

01-07-2005, 10:05 PM
Does anyone have an original paint TR6? I'd like to know if they painted the tub with the rear wings bolted on. On the resprays I have seen the rear wing top seam always looks bad. Many have cracks on the seam in the finish allowing moisture under the paint. I think my restoration book recommends painting wings off, with good coverage on the inner seam, then seam sealer between the panels. They even talk about wiping out the squeezed out sealer evey once in a while.

01-07-2005, 10:25 PM
35thbdaytr6, your advise is the right way to do it. If you use the proper washers when putting it back together it will draw up so much it squeeze out most of the seam sealer and you do want it in there. You can take a fine brush and paint it if you have a steedy hand, but just a good wipe will get rid of most of the visible part. Wayne

01-08-2005, 03:56 PM
Are there any good rattle can type spray on fillers out there? My panels are pretty straight. I just want to spot shoot some of them.


01-09-2005, 09:55 AM
Cain, SEM makes a great self etching primer just for spot painting, works on aluminum and stainless steel. I get mine at the PPG dealer. Oh, it is a spray bomb. Wayne

01-09-2005, 01:08 PM
Just my 2 centovos, nobody seems to have mentioned the main reason for removing the wings.STOPPING THE RUST ON THE TUB!!!! Since the factory never dreamed that there would be a single car left by now, they never gave the underbody seams any caulk or paint they were left in what ever primer happened to get oversprayed on. If you get the wings off a TR and dont spend 40 hrs or so on rust prevention, you are missing the point. A drop dead beatiful paint job is a waste of time on a rustbucket.
MD(mad dog)

01-09-2005, 02:05 PM
I agree 100% with MDCanaday. It may seem like extra expense and a real pain right now, but think about having the entire paint job trash in a year because of moisture under the paint at those seams. I looked at a stunning $10k TR6 when I bought mine, he had a $3500 paint job that was two years old bubbling at the seams. He paid a shop big bucks for the body restoration, but between paint issues, poor floorboard patching and improper frame repairs, he had a $1500 car needing a body off. He had no idea it was done wrong and it broke his heart when I pointed out the problems. Had he purchased Roger Williams two TR books, he would have educated himself and known the shop was doing poor work. His two books on the TR4-6 are the best $30 I have ever spent on my car.

01-09-2005, 04:17 PM
Don, when I did the frame off on my GT6, all panel interiors got the same treatment as the exterior body regarding the paint. Two different epoxy primers, and three coats of color. Probably a bit of overkill, but the suckers are protected against rust! After I installed the sills, I additionally coated the inside with rustproofing.
And all this for a car that will never be driven in the winter.