View Full Version : Rattle can advice please

09-19-2010, 03:23 PM
I've been at it again with the rattle cans, painting up a boot lid. I put on about six coats of color and then according to instruction on the cans within 1 hour applied a few coats of the crystal clear coat.
It was about 72F outside but the humidity was pretty high, though this was a sunny part of the day yesterday.
It looked ok, was dry enough to handle within a couple hours so I brought it inside over night.

This morning I can see what looks like foggy tiger stripes.

Thinking it's the clear that has not cured yet I got out a nice big 'Reveal' flood lamp and tried curing it in a few spots.

Sure enough, the stripes disappear. Unfortunately this method burns the paint pretty fast - just too intense.

Question - if I just install this thing onto the car will the stripes eventually go away? We probably wont see much sunshine here for a while.

09-19-2010, 03:36 PM
sounds like moisture to me. If it was, not sure what the results will be.

what happens is the paint evapotated cooling your metal, drawing moisture to the surface and then you applied the clear on top. Without the complete process of how all material was applied and the temps. really cann't say for sure

09-19-2010, 03:54 PM
But it clears when the light and heat of the flood lamp is applied, does that fit your theory?

The paint was applied as per instructions on the can.

Spray a light coat and then wait ten minutes then spray another light coat.
I did this about 6 times.

The clear said to apply within one hour of the color.
They were both the same brand and type of paint.

After a few coats of clear I let it dry about two hours then brought it inside.
I could see striping at that time, I hoped it would go away as the paint cured.

When applying the flood lamp the area becomes warm, so I know I'm baking the paint. I moved it every 30 seconds to avoid blistering (after leaving it too long on one spot and getting a small blister).

The area where I applied the lamp cleared up and is still clear about an hour after cooling. It is really tedious to hover a flood lamp over a spot and move it around, takes a long time to have the desired effect.

Normally I'd set it out in the sun at this point, but we have moved into the rainy season here in the Pacific Northwest so we may not see the sun again for a while...

I guess I am hoping there is still enough UV making it through the clouds to work on this stuff but I don't know if that's even what it needs to clear it up.

09-19-2010, 07:15 PM
Good news, the sun came out briefly and much of the striping went away.

Here's a pic of what I've been up to - this is going on Frank. he's getting a slow facelift from the old crappy brown to this nice deep green.
His hood is all gray primer right now, waiting for some sunny days to get the green on.

09-19-2010, 08:53 PM
There have been a few breaks in the rain today, so I got the thing bolted on the car.

Definitely a work in progress, have to get the hood done next.

09-19-2010, 11:08 PM
If it reappears you can reapply clear on top of what you have within 30 days. with a light sanding.

The only other thing that comes to my mind is not enough clear applied on last coat and the streaks are dry spots from overlap of clear fan not burning into clear because not enough product applied.
I apply 3 coats of clear
1. light tack coat
2. wet coat
3. very wet coat. almost ready to sag

If you apply to quick between coats metal will turn cold causing blue. Also you may also get solvent pop from top drying before bottom coats

09-19-2010, 11:10 PM
Sorry forgot to mention the job looks pretty good in the photo

09-19-2010, 11:50 PM
What brand of paint is it?

09-20-2010, 12:37 AM
Stuff oReilleys sells, its their acrylic auto paint.

Duplicolor brand

09-20-2010, 12:43 AM
This panel turned out better than previous attempts.
Lots of sanding on old rusty mk1 panels.
I hope the hood turns out good, weather report is saying we will have some sunshine this coming weekend. Maybe I can get more prep work done during the week and get it painted over the weekend.

09-20-2010, 09:21 AM
If possible paint under a open shed (something with a roof overhead) iF you have some of those work flood lamps set them up so the heat of lamps will "warm" the surface (not cook) of part you are painting. if you have a infra heat sensor aim for about 98-100 deg. This should help with moisture and aid in drying of paint and clear.

When I paint I test paint to see if it is ready for next coat by touching with my finger the cut in tape, when my rubber glove tries to pull off my finger from paint adhesion I know next coat is ready.

Are gonna attempt to paint both sides of the hood at the same time ?

09-20-2010, 09:53 AM
Are gonna attempt to paint both sides of the hood at the same time ?

Yeah, I never had luck with rattle cans on a large surface.

I'm behind you 100% Rick. Nobody should be poop brown; not even poop.

09-20-2010, 11:43 AM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Are gonna attempt to paint both sides of the hood at the same time ?[/QUOTE]

No - Definitely not.
I'll position the light under the hood. Painting it while still mounted to the parts car - it's good for holding the thing in place at least.
So maybe I should hook up an electric heater under the hood as well? Of course I guess I want to be wary of the potential for flamage.

My last hood came out "ok". Nothing to write home about but looks allright from a distance.

09-20-2010, 12:08 PM
Caution!!!! do not get it too hot

09-20-2010, 01:33 PM
Shouldn't be any danger, it's probably going to be 65F outside, might get close to 70 if we're lucky.

I will at least use the flood lamp.

09-20-2010, 03:01 PM
If the flood/heat lamp was curing the problem, why not try it again, but to avoid blistering, keep it far enough away so as not to overheat the paint (like in a room overnight with the lamp 6-8 ft or so above the panel!).

09-20-2010, 06:26 PM
it is called "Russet Brown" probably about the ugliest color paint i have ever known. My first midget was that color.


09-20-2010, 07:01 PM
it is called "Russet Brown" probably about the ugliest color paint i have ever known. My first midget was that color.


so who is Russ and why did he ____ on your car?

tragically, I suspect it isn't even close to the ugliest colour out there.

09-20-2010, 10:37 PM
I just did the bonnet of my Bugeye with some Dupli-Color rattle cans. It came out OK and just like yours, the main hood is streaky and not very shiny. I managed to get some bad cans that could not hold a constant pressure and the clear coat was uneven and thin (tiger-stripped, like yours). I plan on Wet sanding it and trying again next weekend. Even still, it looks a lot better than it did. My entire front end was pockmarked with rock chips....almost worse than having poop brown paint. :wink:

09-21-2010, 02:34 PM
Bummer about the bad cans.
I used those short cans when I did the hood on my Sprite, I was not pleased with several aspects.

1. The cans are short and $7 each - it's like you get half a can of paint.
2. They get down to that last 25% pretty fast, where the uneven spraying gets way worse.
3. Hats off to whoever the marketing genius was who designed the little cans, they make you think you are getting something special. However good luck matching any paint you already have - just ain't going to happen. You feel like you are getting something good because you are paying twice as much money for half as much paint.
4. The taller cans with fewer color choices have better paint that finishes better and looks better and costs less than half as much. If you can go with a basic color then you're set.

All IMHO and YMMV of course.

09-21-2010, 02:40 PM
Did I mention that I sanded it down and then sprayed rust killer then sanded then glazed then primed and then glazed then sanded then glazed then primed then sanded etc etc etc...?

Then after the 5th or 6th coat of color I sanded with 2000 wet or dry then another wet coat of color then after my 2nd or 3rd coat of clear I sanded with 2000 wet or dry then did another wet coat of the clear?

At this point I plan on wet sanding and applying another coat of clear on Saturday unless it already looks perfect.

I'm only at the point of hopefully sanding and priming and sanding again on the hood unless I find another imperfection I can't live with.

I simply must start remembering to wear my respirator - I really don't recover as quickly as I used to.

09-21-2010, 05:20 PM
If you're doing that much work, get Rustoleum in the quart and shoot the darn thing. You won't get the streaks.

They have most colors in quart except for poop brown.

They have gallons too.

09-21-2010, 06:32 PM
Streaks are gone, we had sunshine today and it looks great!!

Just the way I wanted it to look, now I am very happy with it.
Of course I'll see what it looks like tomorrow morning but right now it looks great!

I can also buy this paint by the quart or gallon. I have a compressor but no HVLP gun yet. To be honest I didn't know if I would like this shade of green and it turns out I really do. Much better to do a small panel and decide if you like it or not than shoot a whole car and then figure out you hate it.

09-21-2010, 09:43 PM
You can get a reasonable HVLP gun for less than a few of those rattle cans hat will probably do a better job and much easier and faster.

09-22-2010, 12:31 AM
One full size can in this green that I like is $5.00

Where can I get a gun for $15?

09-22-2010, 03:27 AM
HVLP guns from Harbor Freight are only $12.95 when on sale . They are preferred among a lot of the DIY crowd. I have three that get used regularly. I have run all types of paint thru them with great results. If you cant get professional results with one of these guns, dont blame it on where they are made. One item that is worth every penny.

09-22-2010, 08:08 AM
Like this one?


09-22-2010, 08:28 AM
Aye, and that low pressure stuff is great. Just use it in the drive way when there is no breeze. No overspray even a few feet away.

09-22-2010, 09:45 AM
Go on Rick, pull the trigger. ( O.K, pun intended.)

09-22-2010, 03:34 PM
I've got all my coupons printed out, might head over to HF after work.
Any other stuff I should grab while there? They have a paint gun stand for about $10 (funny it's as much as the gun). Paint filters? I have a respirator. Anything else that would be handy to have and help make it a more foolproof experience?

09-22-2010, 04:27 PM
Don't go next door to Hobby Lobby and get the latex spray paint. Just sprayed some the wife bought (not knowing any better) and it's the WORST spray paint I've ever used.

If I would have washed it down then sprinkled it with flour it would have come out better.

Trevor Jessie
09-22-2010, 06:25 PM
Inline dessicant/drier.

09-22-2010, 06:30 PM
Anything else that would be handy to have and help make it a more foolproof experience?

Yes, you'll definitely need an evaporative disgronificator.


09-22-2010, 06:41 PM
I called O'Reilley's just before leaving work.
Asked if I can buy that Leaf Green Duplicolor in the quart.
Guy says he'll check, comes back a while later and says he can't find that for me.

His suggestion: I should look it up on the Duplicolor website then call them back with a number to order.


09-22-2010, 06:56 PM
Well this is why you do your research first...

Nope they don't list that product in anything but spray cans.
Nothing else with that color at all.

I screwed up.
Well I hope I remember this for the next time I want to start a big project.

09-22-2010, 07:07 PM
Just sent in an email, maybe it's available - who knows?

09-22-2010, 07:12 PM
Here is a link to the set up on the HF gun HF gun set up (https://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/HVLPspraygun.html)

09-22-2010, 07:19 PM

If I can't get this from Dupli-Color what is the chance some other manufacturer would have the same color in quart cans?

09-22-2010, 07:54 PM
I found this...
https://www.stockwiseauto.com/Premium-Gen..._source=froogle (https://www.stockwiseauto.com/Premium-General-Purpose-Paint-Leaf-Green/M/B00296CFMO.htm?traffic_src=froogle&amp;utm_medium=orga nic&amp;utm_source=froogle)

The Leaf Green Duplicolor paint code is DA1630 for the rattle can. Jeg's is the only place I've found so far that has Duplicolor products in the quart size, just not Leaf Green.

I would also think that Wesco Auto Body Supply could match that for you in a quart.

09-22-2010, 11:59 PM
Thanks, but I can buy as many 12 oz cans as I want at $4.99 each from O'Reillys - I'll give Wesco a try for the quarts.
I believe they are not far from the HF store in Bellevue.

09-23-2010, 11:40 AM
Water seperator for your air compressor. Water and paint do not mix.

09-23-2010, 11:49 AM
Thanks, I saw that on the setup pages Paul referred to.
Have to see if HF has one of those, I have a 20% off coupon in case it's not on sale.

09-23-2010, 12:33 PM
I've got the big blue one from HF and it sucks. I find it helpful on my set up to leave the moisture bleed open on the compressor just a hair when I spray.

09-23-2010, 12:39 PM
I've got the big blue one from HF and it sucks. I find it helpful on my set up to leave the moisture bleed open on the compressor just a hair when I spray.

Good to know, thanks for that!

09-23-2010, 12:57 PM
It works good till it gets water in it. You can't get all of the water out unless you take it apart. The drain is too high and some ribs are in the way of the exit. Other than that, it does a good job of filtering the air...till you get water in it. It's a big problem here due to the high humidity.

09-23-2010, 02:49 PM
Well since I can't get the Dupli-Color bulk paint in the color that comes in the can and I've already got several cans and more cans are only $5 per 12 oz...

The Dupli-Color rep emailed me and told me the bad news. Not available in bulk packaging for use with a spray gun.

For the time being I'm just going to use the spray cans. For $15 I get 36 oz (3 cans) and the cans are big enough each and do a pretty good job.

Also this coming weekend may be my last window of weather opportunity and I don't want to spend that putting together a system and figuring out how to use it.

I'll do that when I go to spray the Sprite, maybe next summer

09-23-2010, 02:59 PM
What if you emptied the spray cans into a container? That could be interesting.....

09-23-2010, 03:26 PM

If you turn them upside down you can let all the aerosol out, then just pop a hole in the can and pour it out.
No idea how well it would work, but it might be better sprayed through a gun with a compressor. At the least it might be entertaining.

09-23-2010, 03:37 PM
Be sure to post a video of the experience! I've actually done it a couple of times and it worked great. Just a bit messy. Latex gloves would have helped my situation back then...

09-23-2010, 03:59 PM
I've actually done it a couple of times and it worked great...

Do you mean you emptied spray cans into a paint gun and it worked well?

09-23-2010, 04:04 PM
yep... I got tired of the crummy splattering toward the end of the can and did what you said.... let the air out of the can, pop a hole in it, and pour it out. I used to restore pedal cars and vintage bicycles and used several small spray guns.

09-23-2010, 04:39 PM
All right then, I will give it a try!
It should at least be educational, and at best it will be really nice!
Thanks for the Tip!!

09-23-2010, 05:25 PM
Have you checked to see what Rustoleum has to offer yet? There are others out there and you might like another color better.

Here's one, boat paint:


here's another in the hi po line in gallons:


09-23-2010, 05:54 PM
Be wary of moisture getting into the paint if you pour it out- in the spray cans I will bet that there is a precise amount (probably NONE) but in the spray gun you are introducing moisture. Ed probably did it in the Socal dry air and that is why it worked.

09-23-2010, 07:32 PM
Well I got the $9.99 gun at HF tonight, so I will see.
It will only cost me a $5 can of spray paint.

09-23-2010, 07:33 PM

... yes, I will try it on something other than the hood ...


09-23-2010, 10:23 PM
Rick, I can't help but feel that you are going to regret a cheap paint job. Before you commit yourself too much to rattle cans and drained rattle cans, consider whether you should just do it right. There are economical paint lines out the (summit has one and I think eastwood too) It's easy to pull a trunk to do this, but, before too long you are going to be in the area of engines and interiors. I just don't see the durability or sheen or coverage coming from rattle cans. My vote is, wait till you can do it right.

09-24-2010, 12:21 AM
Thanks JP,
Noted - but what you might not fully grasp is how truly ugly the brown is.

This course lets me do a little at a time, the paint is surprisingly good and actually looks real nice. It's automotive paint in a spray can.
It's cheap enough I don't mind experimenting with it and so far I have my old brown panels I could bolt back on should I choose.

09-24-2010, 07:47 AM
I appreciate the brown is ugly, I just figure the route you've chosen may mean you have to do it all again in a couple of years and then you'll have two layers to contend with. That being said, it's your car right?! :yesnod:

from the ugliness point of view sounds like anything will be an improvement.

09-24-2010, 09:54 AM
from the ugliness point of view sounds like anything will be an improvement

Yes, and I have all these nice MK1 body parts...

The MK1 trunk lid is such a better thing it's just amazing.
I suppose mainly due to the nice chrome 4 piece emblem set.
The old body panels have something the newer ones don't.
Maybe it's just the beaten out by hand look, they are not perfect like the newer panels. Maybe that's just age, I'm not sure. I am sure I really like my new trunk lid and when set side by side with the brown one with the pressed aluminum emblem I'd choose the MK1 lid every time. Heck it was way nicer than the brown one when it was just sitting in primer.
I have a picture of that:

09-24-2010, 01:17 PM
I've heard of other people draining rattle cans and shooting with a gun, FWIW.

09-26-2010, 11:23 AM
Painting happened yesterday.
I learned a lot of things yesterday in a short period of time.

First, whoever offered the tip about wearing latex gloves - I really wish I had taken your advice.

Second, and probably most important, if you are going to extract paint from spray cans be very patient. Most of the ways you could think to speed this up will only end in disaster.

Next, if you are going to try and speed up the process be sure to do it far away from the subject that you intend to paint.
A geyser of paint spraying everything can really reach out far and touch a lot of stuff. Then you get to sand off all the lovely little spots of paint deposited on your work. Paint drys fastest when deposited in ways that don't enhance the project.

Oh yeah, a good tip is to keep your respirator on your body - for me hanging uncomfortably around my neck so that it's always easy to put in place before spraying.

Another is to start earlier than you planned, the end of the day comes too soon. Today's my wife's birthday so yesterday morning was full of preparations for that so of course I got started late. Fortunately the prep work was almost done so I could spend most of the time getting the equipment ready to use and reading the documentation that came with the spray gun. All that left little time to paint, especially considering it takes a long time to drain the air from a spray can.

Note to self - find a way to catch drips coming off the sprayer before they leave blobs of paint on the work.
No idea where the drips came from, but sanding them down won't be fun. I had thought about hanging the hood so I could spray it that way - with it hanging vertically - but thought I could do it while mounted to the car just as well. Hanging it would have most likely produced a better job.

All in all I was surprised by many things.
First, since I practiced on a spare trunk lid I found that with the controls wide open the gun can spray out a lot of paint very quickly. Amazingly quickly in fact.

About cleaning the gun, can it be done by simply putting solvent in, swishing it around then spraying it out? Do I need to take it apart and thoroughly clean every nook &amp; cranny?

I have more work to do on this piece, but it's definitely painted and looks pretty good. there were a couple blobs that will have to be sanded out and I haven't actually been out to look at it today - my opinion of the work may change when I do that.

All in all I was surprised at how well my cruddy old compressor did. It's just a 2 hp 12 gallon unit. For a hobby / back yard guy I would definitely say go for it if you want to try doing this - it would be easy to do a lot worse!

Trevor Jessie
09-26-2010, 12:33 PM
Yup, you need to disassemble the gun to clean it properly.

09-26-2010, 01:30 PM
Painting happened yesterday.
I learned a lot of things yesterday in a short period of time.

I almost fell out the chair laughing when I read that cause I knew where you were going with it.

09-26-2010, 04:20 PM
Yup, you need to disassemble the gun to clean it properly.

Hope I'm not too late. At least it got the solvent treatment.

09-26-2010, 04:21 PM
Painting happened yesterday.
I learned a lot of things yesterday in a short period of time.

I almost fell out the chair laughing when I read that cause I knew where you were going with it.

Just imagine a green geyser. Glad I had the can of solvent nearby... :wink:

09-26-2010, 10:56 PM
Should not drop blobs of paint, did you have it too thick maybe. Watch carefully, something is not quite right.

Trevor Jessie
09-27-2010, 06:46 AM
The drips and/or blobs may be because of incorrect tip/needle size, or incorrect setting, or poor atomization by the gun. (this is my issue with HF guns) I do not think the manufacturing tolerances are such that you are guaranteed a gun that will work properly. You may get lucky and find one that will work fine, and for the price I guess it is worth a gamble.

Of course, there are many variables here since you are shooting paint drained out of a rattle can.

09-27-2010, 08:33 AM

Many many variables!!

09-27-2010, 08:39 AM

Many many variables!!

But, in today's fast paced world, your method of stabbing the side of the can and painting ~everything~ might just catch on. <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

Green dog, why not ????? :thumbsup:

09-27-2010, 08:43 AM
Green lawn mower, hey just add a bit of yellow and the value goes up!!
Green floor jack, green concrete, green feet ( don't paint in open toed sandals should have made my list of 'things' above ), green sandals, green parts on the parts car, green smoker bbq, the list goes on and on and on...

09-27-2010, 03:28 PM
Multi tasking m'boy !!!!

09-27-2010, 05:01 PM
Green lawn mower, hey just add a bit of yellow and the value goes up!!
Green floor jack, green concrete, green feet ( don't paint in open toed sandals should have made my list of 'things' above ), green sandals, green parts on the parts car, green smoker bbq, the list goes on and on and on...

"hi honey, nice dress, is it new?"


09-27-2010, 05:06 PM
Heh - yeah.

There are good reasons for her to stay far far away...

You don't want to watch the sausage being made, 'nuff said.

10-03-2010, 12:15 PM
Trying to restore that old hood has really taken some twists and turns.
Last week I had it repaired mostly 'perfect' then I went to spray on some primer and the nozzle on the brand new can malfunctioned and shot blobs all over.
You really wouldn't believe how fast that stuff dries when that happens.
In hindsight I should have grabbed some thinner and a rag, but instead I grabbed a rag and wiped at it. This made things much worse.
So, a few times after work last week I was out there sanding and glazing some more.
Yesterday I was finishing it up and thought it would be a good time to remove it from the car. Put the wrench on the first bolt and snap - broke right off.
Looking at the rest and finding them all very rusty I finally decided to give up on that hood. The thing has been one problem after the next and after all I have done with it I'm still very far from having it work. It is missing some parts for latching, it won't work with the telescoping hood stay, I still need to clean and de-rust the underside and paint it.
Maybe some other time I will come back to it.

I decided to pull out one of my other bonnets, this one was made for the 1500 Midgets and doesn't need much work. I washed rinsed and dried it and it looks like a keeper.
Today I'll sand it and primer it up, first hitting any rusty areas with rust killer then maybe a bit of glazing bondo along where the front flashing goes.
All in all I think it's the way I should have gone weeks ago.

But I have learned many things along the way, that's the silver lining here.
And my 12 year old son is helping me, so that's cool.

10-03-2010, 02:12 PM
And my 12 year old son is helping me, so that's cool.

HOw ggod is he at sandning?

10-03-2010, 05:22 PM
heh, I showed him both the variable speed orbital and the palm random orbital...
Let him do some of the first bit of sanding with each.
He likes the palm size unit better. The vari speed unit is quite a bit bigger and harder to control.

And of course he's become familiar with the block and the wet sanding.
I let him apply water with a sponge while I work on the material mostly, he's a long way to go before he learns to focus more on the work than the tools.

Still, I'm happy he spends any time at all with it, I keep sessions with him short and to the point so he doesn't get bored and can see results.