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View Full Version : Paint Quality - Hydraulic Fluid Reservoirs



angelfj1
08-13-2010, 05:02 PM
I have a question regarding reproduction hydraulic fluid reservoirs. (see photo below for example) I purchased one of these from one of the big three within the past 2 years. It has been stored in it's original packaging in a clean and dry shop environment. Today when we opened the package and unscrewed the cap some paint chips came off where the cap was grasped. It appears to be somewhat delicate! In addition much of the paint has flaked off the area at the bottom (underside) where the fittings are located. Of course at almost $100 for a glorified tomato can, I can rant and rave about crap parts but that's not my goal. At almost $90/hr for shop time and expensive paint, etc, I want to fix this now and not later. So, has anyone purchased one of these tomato cans in the past 2 years. Have you had issues with paint flaking off the lid or bottom?

Many thanks,

Frank

https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q159/angelfj/fluid_reservoir.jpg

ekamm
08-13-2010, 07:56 PM
I bought one from VB a year ago and used it immediately. The paint appears to be very good on mine. The only blemish is a fingerprint from me touching it with dot 3 on my hand.

Tr4dude
08-13-2010, 11:51 PM
I would powdercoat it. ;-)

tdskip
08-14-2010, 06:56 AM
Frank - while probably just a bit our of the return policy I'd contact the vendor and see what they say. I've actually been very pleased with how VB and Moss have handled situations like this (haven't had to return anything to TRF so can't say).

angelfj1
08-14-2010, 08:16 AM
I would powdercoat it. ;-)

TR4dude: I'm not sure if this is accurate, but I have been told that the reservoir is soft-soldered at the seam and thus is not suitable for powder coating.

PeterK
08-14-2010, 09:15 AM
It needs to withstand 400F for 20min for powder to flow. Probably too low to melt solder but don't quote me.

martx-5
08-14-2010, 09:42 AM
It needs to withstand 400F for 20min for powder to flow. Probably too low to melt solder but don't quote me.

The very common 60/40 (Sn/Pb) solder melts at 370 deg F.
50/50 melts at 425 deg F. Without knowing what solder was used, I wouldn't powder coat.

I re-did my original can and painted with Rust-O-Leum. Two years later, and it's still hanging in there.

If you decide to re-paint, remove all of the old paint and make sure that the can is very clean with no residue on it.

Sometimes you are just best off doing it yourself. Maybe you can get a partial credit from the vendor, but with the time lapse, I doubt it. But, do mention it to them.

angelfj1
08-14-2010, 10:29 AM
:wall: Just got a call from the shop. Upon further examination, while gently squeezing the can for trial fit in the clamp, a LARGE piece of paint (full length of can and 1 - 2 inches wide), fell off. It just plain lifted from the metal surface. The exposed metal is bright and shiny with NO evidence of surface prep of any kind. You just cant paint plated surfaces like that without at least a scuff sanding.

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">Gentlemen, this is the kind of crapola that really frosts me.</span>
</span>
$90 + tax and shipping, and had that been on the car two years ago, it would now be rusting for sure. I just do not understand. How much more effort and cost to do a nice job the first time??? Oh well it's already prepped and ready for primer. This will now end up costing maybe $250 , including original cost, shop time, materials and how do you put a price on aggravation. I will now go back under my rock and be quiet for awhile

My suggestion, if you have one of these waiting to go on a car, examine it closely. :yesnod:

mallard
08-14-2010, 11:05 AM
Frank you got to vent sometimes, so keep on venting. No need to hide under a rock.

I've been using a brand of paint I never saw before. I got it from the shop that did my engine machining. Aervoe Engine Enamil. Great luck so far with it.

I redid my original can with this paint. It's been hanging in the garage for six weeks now. Plenty of time to let it cure before putting it back together.

Quality control is not what it used to be, if it even exists at all anymore. Price Price Price

martx-5
08-14-2010, 11:20 AM
...
$90 + tax and shipping, and had that been on the car two years ago, it would now be rusting for sure. I just do not understand. How much more effort and cost to do a nice job the first time??? Oh well it's already prepped and ready for primer. This will now end up costing maybe $250 , including original cost, shop time, materials...

Are you saying that it's gonna cost $150 to paint something half the size of a beer can???

Edit: I hope you will be using silicone brake fluid.

PeterK
08-14-2010, 12:07 PM
Quality control is not what it used to be, if it even exists at all anymore. Price Price Price

I think it's more like Profit Profit Profit. $90 for a tomato can?

angelfj1
08-14-2010, 01:11 PM
...
$90 + tax and shipping, and had that been on the car two years ago, it would now be rusting for sure. I just do not understand. How much more effort and cost to do a nice job the first time??? Oh well it's already prepped and ready for primer. This will now end up costing maybe $250 , including original cost, shop time, materials...

Are you saying that it's gonna cost $150 to paint something half the size of a beer can???

Edit: I hope you will be using silicone brake fluid.

Yes, I know Art. It sounds crazy, but shop time here is approx. $85 - $100/hr. To do this properly the reservoir has to be disassembled, bead blasted, primed, sanded, maybe another coat of prime, wet sanded and then color and buffing. Sometimes these little parts are more difficult and sometimes he uses one of his air brushes. I know Brian will give me a break, but the supplies are expensive, also. We've been using DuPont Chroma low VOC's - kinda pricy. Recently he got all set to shoot some gloss black, I think it must have been last week. He was all ready to go but by the time he got in the booth it was so hot, mid 90's, the paint was flashing off before it hit the surface of the parts. Somebody has to pay for these losses and I try to meet him half way. Oh, and yes, I only use Dot 5 in my cars.

martx-5
08-14-2010, 01:25 PM
Quality control is not what it used to be, if it even exists at all anymore. Price Price Price

I think it's more like Profit Profit Profit. $90 for a tomato can?

In all reality, it is a bit more then a tomato can, despite the fact that it looks like one. There are the two fittings. seals, plus the internal "can" for the clutch, and I assume the cap and gasket. The fact that someone is even producing this is amazing.

Is $90 a lot of money??? I don't know, I refurbished my old one. But if I <span style="font-weight: bold">needed</span> one for my restoration, I certainly would pay the price because I really don't have a choice. I don't think $90 is totally out of hand for what you get.

Is it right that the paint is peeling??? No, but I could deal with that. I'd be much more aggravated if the darn thing leaked or just didn't fit properly!

I know that everyone wants the best for their money, and I want that too. But, there have been a lot of "new" parts that I have bought for my TR3 resto that needed some work before putting them on the car. Is it right?? No, it's not. But the alternative is that you can't get the part you need, and that would be worse then having to mess a little with the part that you get.

Not right, but reality...

Geo Hahn
08-14-2010, 04:11 PM
Patina Baby!

https://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Reservoir.JPG

Well, it still works and doesn't leak, though I also enjoy the look of shiny new parts.

I never tripped to the notion of 'clutch' &amp; 'brake' text aligning with the outlets -- obvious now that you point it out.

DrEntropy
08-14-2010, 04:40 PM
:lol: That's classy, Geo! :thumbsup: