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View Full Version : TR2/3/3A 593A Ground Up - we will now join in progress



luke44
01-27-2010, 08:53 PM
Hi - new guy here with my first "Triumph Section" posting - I originally put it in the "new guy" section a few minutes ago but it seems to me the Triumph section gets a lot more traffic... anyway I hope it's not considered bad form to "double post", (I promise I'll only do it this one time) but I do plan on leaning on your expertise here a lot as I proceed with my project, and wanted to let you all know I'm out here....thanks,

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...e_I_#Post646703 (https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/646703/New_guy_wondering_What_have_I_#Post646703)

DNK
01-27-2010, 08:54 PM
Hey, no Porsche Pics allowed as an avatar :laugh:

pjsmetana
01-27-2010, 09:11 PM
The TR3 is looking good! Welcome to the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="text-decoration: underline">BRITISH</span></span></span> car forum :smile:

Mickey Richaud
01-27-2010, 09:37 PM
Hey, no Porsche Pics aloud as an avatar :laugh:

How 'bout quiet ones? :smirk:

TR4nut
01-27-2010, 09:48 PM
Welcome Bruce - Well I can understand that since you only have an RS America you'd want to upgrade to a Triumph TR3A.. Good choice! Actually a buddy of mine just bought one, I do know how rare those beasts are! Glad to have you here!

Randy

luke44
01-27-2010, 11:35 PM
Hi Don - Ok I get it on the Porsche, and I promise I'll change it out as soon as I get some paint on the TR. But cut me at least a bit of slack - after all it is a classic-look <span style="font-style: italic"> air cooled</span> 911 - going on 17 years old now. And an RSA to boot - a bit of a rare piece in P-car circles. Actually the combination of a 911 and a TR3 makes perfect sense to me. One to tinker with, assemble, and thoroughly enjoy in the shop, b/c I understand it, and one to cover some serious ground in total comfort without any issues whenever you want to really cruise. That's actaully why I sold my Cobra. Wicked fast and all the atributes we all love about british cars, but completley impractical if you want to just hop in the car on a Friday night and cruise to a race track 400 miles away.

AngliaGT
01-27-2010, 11:45 PM
Hey, no Porsche Pics aloud as an avatar :laugh:

How 'bout quiet ones? :smirk:


Mickey,

I think that was Cockney - "'Eh Guv,no Porsche Pics aloud".

DNK
01-28-2010, 12:05 AM
See corrected post

TOC
01-28-2010, 12:40 AM
Only if said Porsche is hooked to the back of a Ford tow truck.
Then it's allowed.

In India, they call them Verandas.

Old joke.

toysrrus
01-28-2010, 07:08 AM
Howdy Bruce,

Well Sir; I see you found your way here with no problem.

Have Fun,

Russ

PS: Nice looking Porsche by the way. Personally; I never liked those "Huge" rear spoilers. I feel it distracts from the clean lines of the car but thats just my opinion.

PeterK
01-28-2010, 09:01 AM
PS: Nice looking Porsche by the way. Personally; I never liked those "Huge" rear spoilers. I feel it distracts from the clean lines of the car but thats just my opinion.

Those whale tail spoilers were just a fluke. :lol:

JohnnyMead
01-28-2010, 11:22 AM
Great project! You won't have any unknowns lurking under the surface of that TR when your finished.
I like the Porsche/Triumph combination. They follow different design philosophies and I think the contrast is kind of cool.

John

mallard
01-28-2010, 07:40 PM
Bruce great choice of cars. I almost sold my TR6 three years ago to buy a 1978 930 Turbo with 5000 miles. I was thinking $34000.00 for the car was a good price. The car was like new. Well I still have the six and I'm in the middle of a TR3 restoration. I will have a 930 someday. Welcome to the forum, and have fun with the restoration, what's left.

luke44
01-28-2010, 09:08 PM
Wow! I had no idea the P-car thing would be such a lightning rod. Just for the record, (and certainly <span style="font-style: italic">not</span> to get off topic of LBC's) the rear spoiler on the RSA is quite unique to the model. By 1993, Porsche had long moved on to the electrically raised built-in spoiler that came up automatically at speed for the mass produced 911 (first introduced in 1989 on the so-called 964 version of the 911 series). It was only the limited production RSA that had the fixed wing - it was done for weight saving purposes, and it is somewhat controversial in P-car circles - RSA owners claiming the exact design is unique to this model of car, and others saying it was like the '80's whale tails...fwiw here's a short blurb on it from the RSA website.... https://www.rsamerica.net/OEMinfo/whaletail/index.htm. (https://www.rsamerica.net/OEMinfo/whaletail/index.htm)

Hi Keith - the 930 Turbo is, in my opinion, a real bargain in the classic car world right now. A 5000 mile version for $34k would have been an absolute steal. I had a '72 TR6 that I sold in 2006 to buy my Cobra, but that car, for all it's intensity wasn't the perfect answer for me either, and I sold it to have a go at the P-car.

John - thanks for the comments. They say you never forget your first sports car (mine was a '60 TR3) and I've always wanted another one. Last year I got serious about the idea of having this particular combo from a posting I saw on the P-car website where another poster also had just bought a TR3 to match his 911 - both in red....after debating in my head whether I could cram 2 cars in my garage, it was all over - I had made the emotional leap - I was going to have a TR3 in my life again......but not at the expense of my P-Car. And I wanted a project, but I didn't want all the agony of dissassembly and cleaning that a full on restoration requires. That's why I'm so happy with the condition and circumstances of what I found...I really get to step in at the fun stage.

Anyway, here's the pic from last year that transformed my daydream from a vague idea into an action plan....
https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2104/56501-m-0.jpg

drooartz
01-28-2010, 10:03 PM
I could see how that picture would be inspiring. I'd happily have that pari in my garage (and I'm an MG/Healey man myself). Great to hear that you're making your vision a reality.

luke44
02-24-2010, 09:53 PM
Progress!! The car no longer resides in California. It's an <span style="font-style: italic">east coast </span>car now.

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2356/61273-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2356/61274-m-0.jpg

mrv8q
02-24-2010, 10:13 PM
Good stuff, Luke, a nice combo, indeed. Post more as the need arises....

TonyPanchot
02-25-2010, 11:17 PM
I love the Pic and have a similar one somewhere
showing the German auto and LBC sharing the same space :lol:

as more Allies arrived I had to segregate :thumbsup:

tdskip
02-26-2010, 12:59 AM
Go Luke, go!

Keep us posted.

luke44
04-21-2010, 07:31 PM
Well I'm overdue to post an update. Life is like that - it gets in the way of your hobbies. Anyway, I guess a restoration is a journey - and each journey has its twists and turns. Well.....in my case I got ambushed by a bandit trucker and my journey has made a sharp right turn.....

Now in fairness, I was kind'a stupid in not going for an enclosed trailer (worst $400.00 I ever saved), but the driver also contributed to my grief by not securing the load properly and the hood flew off somewhere east of Albuqurque after he readjusted the load, and moved the car from the bottom to the top. And when the hood flew off it , it bent the cowl where the hinges mount, and the sharp corner of the hood impaled the right rear inner fender before flying off into never never land. That's the short version. The long version fills several pages (see insurance claim comment below)...

Needless to say, the car that left San Diego was not the same car that arrived at this end. And the insurance claim is continuing.....that's another story...

But the good news is I have found another hood and plan to get back at it this weekend. As bad as these pix look, the sheet metal is rock solid underneath - it is literally just surface blush. but, I have decided to have the car dipped to completley clean it and start fresh....

Compare the pix below to the pix in the link in my first posting in this thread.

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2356/64981-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2356/64980-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2356/64982-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2356/64985-m-0.jpg

M_Pied_Lourd
04-21-2010, 08:01 PM
Luke,

Sorry to hear of your problems. Hopefully, your insurance will cover what you have lost and make it right. Keep up the positive attitude. I look forward to future posts.

Cheers,
David

HerronScott
04-21-2010, 08:24 PM
Also echoing David's sentiments on the problems.

Did the car make another trip as I thought the pictures and post back in February were after its trip east?

Scott

luke44
04-21-2010, 08:52 PM
...Did the car make another trip as I thought the pictures and post back in February were after its trip east?Scott

The Feb pix were as-loaded in San Diego. Tonights pix were 4 days later - how it came off the truck at the other end :frown:. I was just a bit tardy loading them.

TexasKnucklehead
04-22-2010, 03:57 PM
Bummer. Sometimes it's hard to remember that progress in reverse is still progress, and sometimes you have to make it worse before it gets better. You know where you're going and we are all going to watch you get there.

Enjoy the journey,
Jer

luke44
05-01-2010, 05:06 PM
Here is an update on TS31577LO in another thread on the Quikstrip metal preparation process.....

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?66091-TR3-Body-Stripping-Bare-QuikStrip-Allentown/page2&highlight=TR3+body+stripping+Allentown (https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/674387#Post674387)

luke44
05-04-2010, 06:52 PM
Finally some progress I can see after picking up at Quikstrip yesterday! Although my tub was bare when I bought it, I never really knew 100% on the ancillary painted panels like fenders, doors etc. And of course I had to buy a new hood after the cowboy trucker lost my original one. The painted panels on the car were stripped - they are excellent - an absolute minimum of dents and no rust anywhere! Some repairs to some lead will be necesseary, and the lower edge of the nose, but that's about it. Yeah!!

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2611/66277-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2611/66278-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2611/66282-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2611/66283-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2611/66284-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2611/66276-m-0.jpg

Quick question - is the upper part of the pedal box (above) body color or black??

Moseso
05-05-2010, 10:40 AM
The pedal box is body color.

TR3driver
05-05-2010, 11:51 AM
The pedal box is body color.
TRA judging standards say it should be gloss black. None of mine have been body color, except for one obvious respray.

Moseso
05-05-2010, 12:51 PM
Hmmm. Ooops. Guess that means mine was a respray when I got it -- which I have suspected.

luke44
05-05-2010, 03:51 PM
So gloss black it is?

Moseso
05-05-2010, 05:49 PM
If Randall says it is, it IS.
He never guesses, like I do.

TR3driver
05-05-2010, 06:00 PM
OH no, I make mistakes just like everyone else does! And this is an area I'm particularly weak on, because I don't especially care which color each component should be (my engine compartment is flat black because it's easy to touch up).

But the TRA judging guidelines are usually accurate:

mallard
05-05-2010, 07:22 PM
Looks good, time to get some primer on them now.

Tr3aguy
05-05-2010, 08:35 PM
Luke,
It is great to see the progress. I sent you a PM if you have a second take a look.


Thanks,
JP

luke44
05-06-2010, 10:41 AM
.... time to get some primer on them now.

10-4. Primer is tinted red as finish will be Signal Red.

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2611/66285-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2611/66286-l-0.jpg

mallard
05-06-2010, 08:33 PM
That didn't take long to get the primer on. Got most of the dents out of the bonnet also. Take some extra time with that. Very flat on top and shows any wave especially with paint.

Tr3aguy
05-06-2010, 08:45 PM
You have a downdraft booth in your garage? See honey......other guys have it...why can't I?

luke44
05-29-2010, 08:58 PM
Not major, but it's all progress none the less!!!

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2104/69003-l-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2104/69004-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2104/69005-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2104/69002-m-0.jpg

Now, onto the next subassembly...

Tr3aguy
05-30-2010, 08:22 AM
Nice work...is it a press fit?

luke44
05-30-2010, 09:05 AM
JP - not supposed to be a press, but it was a sort of a press fit coming out b/c it was 50 yrs of never being apart- but you can do it like I showed with a big vice and some sockets. Cleaned up and graphite lubed, the pin slides right back in with no press - a slight tap with a hammer.

And with all said and done, the pedals swing a lot more freely.

HerronScott
05-30-2010, 10:05 AM
Nice! It looks like the same design as the pedal assembly on the TR4A.

Scott

luke44
11-21-2010, 10:35 PM
Progress continuing. Heater restoration now finished. Thanks for the inspration and guidance to Frank Angelini and this article.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/tikiwiki/tiki-index.php?page=Restoring+Smiths+Heaters

A few pix of the heater restoration...

<span style="font-weight: bold">BEFORE</span>

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2683/86286-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2683/86287-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2683/86288-m-0.jpg

<span style="font-weight: bold">DURING</span>

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2683/86290-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2683/86291-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2683/86292-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2683/86293-m-0.jpg

<span style="font-weight: bold">AFTER</span>

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2683/86294-m-0.jpg

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2683/86297-m-0.jpg

For comparison here's the "before" of the before and after taken from pretty much the same angle.

https://photos.plaxo.com/photos/get/32/7/98/233/2683/86295-m-0.jpg

Tr3aguy
11-21-2010, 11:05 PM
Beautiful job.....But how did you know the core for the coils was in good shape?
Is there a way to check that prior to rebuild?

toysrrus
11-22-2010, 04:28 AM
Hi There JP,

I brought my Heater Core into a local Radiator Repair Shop. They dipped, cleaned &amp; flushed it. Pressure Tested it &amp; It came out with flying colors.

Mine pretty much resembles Lukes and is simply waiting for that "Magical Moment" for Re-Assy. Not too far away now!?!?!?!?!

Regards, Russ

ekamm
11-22-2010, 08:48 AM
Try the wrinkle paint on the part with the doors. Worked great on mine.

luke44
11-22-2010, 09:42 AM
Hi JP - same commenta ss Russ 0 clean it, and get a presure test.

Hi Eric - the doors were wrinkle painted - just doesn't show very well in the pix.

luke44
01-23-2012, 06:45 PM
A few pix to update the thread. Hopefully someone can get some value from a pic - I know what it's like when the manual won't do and you need a pic.

I got a few things out of sequence here when I started a new thread.......Here is the link "when my body shop called" to follow the build sequence:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...oday#Post803236 (https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/803236/My_Body_Shop_called_today#Post803236)


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/6751783705_3fa953ec29_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7148/6751779113_382b6ce068_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7020/6751778393_dfe92268a3_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7027/6751581179_a842dec13a_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7149/6751779171_19e87b6fb4_z.jpg


More to follow....

mrv8q
01-23-2012, 08:42 PM
Wow, you're going to have a new TR 3 when you're finished. Thanks for posting the pix, the inner fender shot will help me later.....

Tr3aguy
02-13-2012, 06:22 PM
What kind of speaker you filling that hole with?

luke44
02-28-2012, 07:06 PM
An update of the firewall progress - a lot of hours here - each wire end was cut to length and soldered. (Hint: buy a butane solder gun - forget electric - especially for the heavier wires).

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7200/6939643429_c9410e497e.jpg

Also - Thanks to all who replied on my other wiring question about horn wires See this thread. (https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/832663/Help_TR3_Wiring_Harness_Horn_W#Post832663)

luke44
02-28-2012, 07:06 PM
What kind of speaker you filling that hole with?

No idea. I think none...

Tr3aguy
02-28-2012, 07:15 PM
Is the gray rod in the picture above...the accelerator linkage?

luke44
02-28-2012, 07:18 PM
Is the gray rod in the picture above...the accelerator linkage?

Yeah, good catch. To do it again, I would have gone bare metal and clear coated it.

PS - if anybody needs any pix, let me know, I've got good access to a lot of areas - fenders aren't on yet, haven't finished under dash etc.

Tr3aguy
02-28-2012, 07:22 PM
I am not sure but I think mine was black or a sad version of black when it came out....I haven't made it to that box yet!

mallard
02-28-2012, 07:56 PM
Very nice looking car, that's something to be proud of. I'm I wrong in thinking that the inner fender sealing plate was body color, and not painted black? My notes say it should be body color.

Who did you get your wire harness from, and are you happy with it?

luke44
02-28-2012, 08:35 PM
Very nice looking car, that's something to be proud of. I'm I wrong in thinking that the inner fender sealing plate was body color, and not painted black? My notes say it should be body color.

Who did you get your wire harness from, and are you happy with it?

The original inner fender sealing plate was unpainted, at least the old ones that came off my car were. I kind'a liked the contrast with black in this area. Concurs judges, slap my wrist if you must. (just like my (gasp) <span style="font-style: italic">aluminum</span> gas tank - that piece is just sooo pretty.... I just <span style="font-style: italic">couldn't </span>bring myself to paint it). No to mention with the ethanol in gas today, why go steel with the possible inherent rust issues?

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7203/6939766385_7b3deb3b61_z.jpg

The wiring harness was from TRF during one of their sales a while ago- part number 303004/LAC - lac for "lacquer" I guess - which means original black cloth cover - no yellow stripes like others from the period that were aftermarket, from what I've read, just black. I think British Wiring also has it as their p/n 382BB - <span style="font-weight: bold">b</span>raided outer, <span style="font-weight: bold">b</span>raid over pvc wire core. I also bought all the extra sub wire assemblies to match - headlights , steering column, overdrive - they all seem to look right, and very high quality. Note the dash board light sub assembly (has 4 small lights) are very light wires and is not finished in braded material.

So far so good on the wiring harness. Fit through firewall to voltage regulator was good. Took me a posting and some great input to figure out I need 2 small pieces of wire for the horns - TRF does not have a p/n for this. Looks good to go on the drivers side so far. Soldering each end is painfully slow, but worth it (I think). Haven't started to solder some of the "bullets" so I'll keep you posted on that.

luke44
02-28-2012, 08:54 PM
Is the gray rod in the picture above...the accelerator linkage?

Actually, you got me to thinking...so I just checked my notes again - see Randall's post of 05/05/10 earlier in this same thread - it appears "silver gray" for the accelerator linkage is in the judging standards. I knew I had seen that somewhere. It was on the basis of that posting I went with that color. I'm ok with it, but again, if I had a do over I would go clear (natural). Not now though - it's a major pita to remove.

Tr3aguy
02-28-2012, 08:57 PM
Where did you get the tank from?

mallard
02-28-2012, 09:27 PM
Thanks for the information on the harness. I was looking at getting mine from TRF or BW. I think TRF gets them from BW and TRF will sell them cheaper. I asked BW some time back if they ever have a sale and they said no.

Is that a new trunk floor in the car, it looks perfect?

luke44
02-28-2012, 09:43 PM
Where did you get the tank from?

It is awesome - an identical copy to an original except in beautiful aluminum. It comes from So Cal - an eBay'er named angelheartponcho. He also makes awesome chrome bumpers and over riders which are very nice - proper original steel gauge and high quality chrome. I highly recommend him.

luke44
02-28-2012, 09:56 PM
Thanks for the information on the harness. I was looking at getting mine from TRF or BW. I think TRF gets them from BW and TRF will sell them cheaper. I asked BW some time back if they ever have a sale and they said no.

Is that a new trunk floor in the car, it looks perfect?

Keith - I'm pretty sure it is. My car was a 2 owner that lived it's whole life in Arizona and So Cal, so most panels and sheet metal pieces are original. I inherited the project part way through. It was definitely a totally rust free tub when I got it - you can see the pix of what it looked like out of the dip tank after I screwed it up and had to have the flash rust removed (due to my shipping stupidity of using an open trailer) by clicking here (https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/674387#Post674387) and looking at the May 10 2010 pix after coming out of the tank.

Yes, I agree TRF buys from BW. Same harness.

luke44
03-21-2012, 05:14 PM
Some updated pix - dash underside etc...

https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6102/6857999306_5b66a54dcf_z.jpg

https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6118/6857999376_47708de660_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7246/7004114301_55cda7b3a8_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7181/6857999408_607c78cc80_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/7004114389_ff238ebccc_z.jpg

https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6113/6857999460_becc4df812_z.jpg
https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6042/6858029928_13291a026c_z.jpg

M_Pied_Lourd
03-21-2012, 05:51 PM
Looking awesome Luke.

Cheers,
David

HerronScott
03-21-2012, 06:27 PM
Wow, very nice.

Scott

Gordon_Dedrick
03-21-2012, 06:34 PM
Your car looks absolutely FABULOUS, Luke. I am SURE they did not look that good from the factory. You are doing an outstanding job and the end result will be stunning, I'm sure. I'm jealous, my '59 don't look nothing like yours from the inside out!
Gordon

Tr3aguy
03-21-2012, 06:38 PM
Very nice....is that insulation under the front of the dash before the capping was put on?

I am jealous...

JFeher
03-21-2012, 06:58 PM
Beautiful......

luke44
03-21-2012, 07:20 PM
......is that insulation under the front of the dash before the capping was put on?

Thanks to all for the kind words. It's nice to see new shiny stuff finally going on after all the early frustration. It is real morale booster.

Hi JP - It's actually a 3 piece wooden support piece for the scuttle - I'm not sure when they discontinued this piece, but it was on the s/n 31000 series cars. I think it was used for the cars that had the aero screen holes - so whenever they discontinued those.

A shot of it out of the car after being refurbished. A tricky little piece to restore actually - a lot of holes to fill. Seems like just about everything screwed into it...
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7120/7004405527_1626956a87_z.jpg


Here is an underside picture of it in place before the tub was dipped. https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6096/6858289950_915a40933d_z.jpg

BillyB62
03-21-2012, 07:34 PM
One word.....darn - nice job! (ok, it started out at one word :-) )

TR4nut
03-21-2012, 07:41 PM
Yep, absolutely gorgeous! You are going to love it when its running. Is that an aluminum gas tank there? From Jorge perhaps? If so those are nice, a friend in my club just got one and the fit was great. Just one thing to check though - he didn't clean his out when he installed it and wound up plugging his gas filter. Apparently his came with some alumimum oxide buildup or some other material and he didn't bother to check. Its all good now though.

mallard
03-21-2012, 07:48 PM
Your car looks fantastic. I hope to be in the same place in a couple months.

luke44
08-07-2012, 07:13 PM
Finally, the main gauges arrived from MoMa....

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8423/7736437494_475ce2454b_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8284/7736438804_8b9d1c7b63_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7115/7736452146_367a01dd7d_z.jpg

And some general engine bay progress...

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7111/7736484514_386b23e458_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8286/7736484018_bf44b800f7_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8292/7736483170_e71276f0b7_z.jpg


Front end progress - Wizard Cooling powder coated rad. (and my latest Porsche project - a 66 911 I call "White Glove" in the background - kind of a left brain/right brain thing when the TR3 frustrates me I jump off it and get a dose of German frustration instead ;-0)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7120/7736623748_19a14aa497_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7135/7736623644_8b7cbd3f55_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8287/7736623548_c52a1fbc9b_z.jpg

Tr3aguy
08-07-2012, 08:01 PM
That funny looking bag to the right used when both sides of the brain needs a rest, then you consume an adult beverage.......??? Car is looking GREAT by the way...

tdskip
08-07-2012, 08:53 PM
First - great thread and nice work.

Second - why is the long hood up in the air?

tinman58
08-07-2012, 09:12 PM
Looking good Luke! "The force is with you"

DNK
08-07-2012, 10:35 PM
I like the fact you just throw stuff on the Porsche

luke44
08-07-2012, 10:51 PM
I like the fact you just throw stuff on the Porsche

Hah! good catch. Actually what you are seeing is the car cover of the 911 has slid off as I needed to access the inside. But, yes, the the hood of the 911 has many times served as a bench for "soft stuff" like carpet bits or rubber trim etc when I run out of space with TR3 stuff on the bench. You can see in the one pic right now the bench on the back wall is full with the hood stick being painted. Ergo, 911 hood (or roof) becomes storage space.

Thankfully I don't have a bigger shop, or there would be a TR4 or a GT6 or a 240Z or a an old Benz or a ...oh never mind ... in there as well.

luke44
08-07-2012, 10:59 PM
...why is the long hood up in the air?


Still sorting my new acquisition. Peeing oil like an old race horse. Valve cover gaskets, waiting on parts. Easy fix on an old 911, a major pita on newer ones.

tdskip
08-07-2012, 11:12 PM
...why is the long hood up in the air?


Still sorting my new acquisition. Peeing oil like an old race horse. Valve cover gaskets, waiting on parts. Easy fix on an old 911, a major pita on newer ones.

Did she sit for a while? My '74 did and I'm still chasing leaks, got the easy ones but.....

Enjoy her, they are special cars.

luke44
08-07-2012, 11:49 PM
...Did she sit for a while? My '74 did and I'm still chasing leaks, got the easy ones but.....Enjoy her, they are special cars.

Yes, they are special. And yes, you're correct, this one had sat a long time. The story of this car (A one owner California car that sat in a garage in San Diego for the last 6 yrs of the owners life due to health issues before he passed away in his mid '80's last year) can be found here (https://www.early911sregistry.org/forums/showthread.php?76689-302596-wht-glv) on the Early 911S Registry forum.

PS - apologies to the TR guys. Please pardon us Porsche nuts just for a moment. Tdskip did recognize the "long hood" in the background as a very very early 911 variant (the ones with the reputation for severe oversteer), which was built in November of 1965. I promise I won't hijack my own thread and will get back to the TR build :smirk:

TR4nut
08-08-2012, 06:35 AM
[Yes, they are special. And yes, you're correct, this one had sat a long time. The story of this car (A one owner California car that sat in a garage in San Diego for the last 6 yrs of the owners life due to health issues before he passed away in his mid '80's last year) can be found here (https://www.early911sregistry.org/forums/showthread.php?76689-302596-wht-glv) on the Early 911S Registry forum.

PS - apologies to the TR guys. Please pardon us Porsche nuts just for a moment. Tdskip did recognize the "long hood" in the background as a very very early 911 variant (the ones with the reputation for severe oversteer), which was built in November of 1965. I promise I won't hijack my own thread and will get back to the TR build :smirk:



With apologies to the TR guys also - go back to the 911S forum and finish your story. I'm hooked!

Great looking 3A by the way!

mallard
08-08-2012, 07:47 PM
Where did you get the fuel line that runs from the shut-off to the pump, and the oil pressure line? They are both SS braided lines. The oil line looks original, not sure about the fuel line.

luke44
08-08-2012, 10:49 PM
Where did you get the fuel line that runs from the shut-off to the pump, and the oil pressure line? They are both SS braided lines. The oil line looks original, not sure about the fuel line.

Yup, good eye, you're right.

The oil pressure gauge line is original.

VB supplied the gas line. I checked everywhere for this line - I did not have one in the boxes of parts that came with the car.

VB was the only source I could find that offered anything, and it wasn't cheap. Can't say I'm 100% happy with it, but I checked all the old posts here and seems nobody else has a better answer so far. I even asked Mark Macy about making one up, but so far, nothing. He did not have a pattern.

luke44
08-12-2012, 09:06 PM
A few pictures from the windshield assembly. The full rebuild story can found in another posting located here: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?85673-TR3-Windshield-Rebuild-and-Assembly-Step-by-Step&highlight=tr3+windshield+rebuild

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8299/7755040292_3f18f2b10c_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7118/7755039822_13448528c7_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7280/7755084136_616449459f_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8289/7755039086_613e17a984_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8284/7755037562_522a3341a3_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8304/7755038374_23c8301684_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8423/7755131104_696d31e0f7_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8289/7770466334_cab644f733.jpg


My favorite part of the whole car has to be that great piece of TR engineering from back in the day - the windshield wipers. My kids laugh at them. I wonder why?

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7267/7770525536_5fc7a47190.jpg

luke44
08-12-2012, 09:14 PM
Coming next: Carpet Install.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8444/7770619120_d57541a271.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7134/7770630318_30cacbba90.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7250/7770644616_e09468ae4d.jpg

luke44
12-01-2012, 09:42 PM
Well now the new forum is up, time to pick back up on my restoration thread.

Carpet is a fairly easy and very satisfying aspect of the restoration. A lot of the detail will depend on the specific kit you bought, but generally the process is the same. In my case, i bought my kit from Jonathon Skinner (https://www.john-skinner.co.uk/) from the UK because a) they are renowned for their quality, b) they offer the correct Wilton wool which is right for my car (s/n 31577), and c) the price is very competitive when compared to the big 3. So, here is the way I went about it. If there are specific questions, feel free as I took lots of other pics.

As you can see from the photos above, I also bought their underlayment. Pix above show the general layout.

As things progress the plan will be to glue the underlayment to the back of the carpet to not only make it easier to install, but also easier to pop out if need be.

Step one for a pre 60000 car is to cut the carpet for the rear vertical riser. This section is glued directly, no underlayment. This piece needs a bit of trimming.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8057/8235646617_b84c398736.jpg

Lay the piece in and cut where it binds and folds up.

This will allow the carpet lay over onto itself. Using chalk. outline where the overlap occurs, and trim the underside piece away

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8203/8235646567_dde91fa9ac.jpg

It might look funny now, but it will fit like a glove...if worse comes to worse and you accidentally cut out a touch too much exposing steel underneath, don't hesitate to cut a small sliver of excess carpet and glue it in. It'll disappear into the finished job.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8340/8235722087_e233c8315a.jpg

Coming along...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8197/8236712540_78ff2fa074.jpg

luke44
12-01-2012, 10:19 PM
The side panels are held in by gluing as well as screws. Gentle use of the vice grips serve as a good set of second hands to help position the carpet in place. Although not shown in the picture, don't forget the furflex at this stage.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8345/8236712496_73b4057c24.jpg

The Skinner kit fit was excellent. I did trim back the underlayment from the edge a bit before gluing. I used Permatex glue - spray both surfaces, let it tack up and press together.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8060/8235646359_5a5626ed13.jpg

A bit of minor trimming on the transmission cover.... the cut outs of the underlayment are for the snaps. The location of the snaps were original, 2 snaps per side.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8347/8236712404_014d774d48.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8479/8235646271_4343828328_z.jpg

Note the cut where the carpet lays onto the floor to relieve the bunch up.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8069/8236712302_681f2842eb_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8479/8235646177_bede02297a_z.jpg

mrv8q
12-02-2012, 03:17 AM
Luke, touching story on your 911. My TR3 has some club event plaques on its dashboard dating back to 1960. Would never think of removing them. Passed by the former Vasek Polak dealership earlier this week. It's been vacant for some time now; it used to have the most amazing examples of racing Porsches on the dealership floor. The days of $9 Porsche service invoices are long gone! Enjoy your beautiful cars.

Tr3aguy
12-02-2012, 06:27 AM
Luke...you are good now and the carpet is coming along...

waltesefalcon
12-03-2012, 01:28 PM
I like your little tabs to keep the windscreen to body gasket in the right position.

mallard
12-03-2012, 08:47 PM
The carpets looking good. I have an old quote from Skinner and need to compare with the others. Heriatge claims to have the best wool. I hope to be doing the carpet in a few months. Keep up the good work.

luke44
12-08-2012, 06:27 PM
Finishing up the carpet is pretty straight forward - the Skinner kit fits beautiful and basically the floor pieces just lay in, but there is still a bit of work to do...step one being to cut the holes for the seat brackets...lay carpet in place, use a sharp awl to get the hole location and then mark the remaining holes with nails.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8199/8255152943_9b502720d0_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8198/8255152827_f71acb2fdb.jpg

Looking good....the seat brackets cover the carpet holes perfectly.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8495/8256223924_c262f329a2.jpg

All snugged down and ready for seats...

luke44
12-08-2012, 06:45 PM
There are a few tricks for the snaps I picked up. Basically I only found a need to use snaps down the center - the trans tunnel and the drive shaft tunnel - 4 snaps per side. The rest is either glued, held by seats, or by gravity.

While the 3 piece snap concept is great, they still take a bit of work to install:

In concept simple enough - pop rivet the snap head where you want it to go. Then use the ring with the prongs to pierce the carpet from the back side, and hammer down the prongs from the front side where they virtually disappear into the carpet..

A B C

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8339/8255176371_a0b079acd4_z.jpg

Be sure to drill through the carpet into the steel where you want the snap to be so the carpet is marked in the right spot.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8342/8256247598_7fa3c31a31_z.jpg

A good tip is to install a small washer or 2 under the snap before pop riveting it into place. This makes the snap infinitely easier to "snap" because the head is raised just a tad off the steel...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8204/8255174829_6a68b36ca7_z.jpg

Back to the carpet - make a small "X" across the center hole you made with the nail/awl on the backside of the carpet. Use a small sharpie knife cutter for this and then and push the ring prongs though the carpet.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8481/8255175883_a77db40266_z.jpg

Trim away the excess carpet inside the ring.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8198/8256247046_b41bee3a65_z.jpg

patience...a bit fiddly...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8491/8255175315_62198df223_z.jpg

A bit of final trimming and the snap hole is clean and ready to go.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8361/8255175015_e58369a6bf_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8220/8255174311_9ce9905863_z.jpg

The snaps disappear when the rest of the carpet is laid down....

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8210/8236712088_409550d691_z.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8208/8236712150_1c1acd3126_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8209/8235646129_43d433ea26_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8360/8255152569_a526f835e4_z.jpg

Next up: Seat Restoration...

M_Pied_Lourd
12-08-2012, 07:54 PM
Beautiful!

Cheers
Tush

mallard
12-08-2012, 08:02 PM
That's looking real sharp, very nice. The washer trick works great, I've done it as well.

luke44
12-09-2012, 04:14 PM
Restoration of the seats have been well covered by other threads, so this is as much for continuing the thread as opposed to a "how to". The only thing I was adamant about was using the proper coil springs and horse hair underpinnings as, in my opinion, the seats are as fundamental to the TR3's personality as the motor.

The other thing is I went with Skinner's leather kit as the Heritage certificate indicated my car originally came with leather interior. So, a few pics of the process.....the before, the during and the after....

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8062/8257876295_608000f3de_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8363/8258944252_2c8c3360ac_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8065/8258944062_4eb1e11b01_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8207/8258943878_b3026fca44_z.jpg

Bead blasting and some crack welding....

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8495/8257875649_5b272f9872_z.jpg

tinman58
12-09-2012, 09:35 PM
Very nice work. This a 100% awesome job!!

luke44
12-14-2012, 05:54 PM
Seats part 2 of 3....

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8204/8258943616_2040b05ea6_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8058/8258943424_1033683c2c_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8223/8257875161_5f9c19a828_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8219/8258943104_1cd1a69584_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8258942940_16d4b3dae2_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8201/8258941750_89b7e86823_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8216/8258941634_860db1f9aa_z.jpg

mallard
12-14-2012, 06:11 PM
Those look nice. What did you use for the tac strips? Is it wood that you painted black? Did they come with the Skinner kit? I'm going to order my interior soon so I have to ask why did you chose Skinner? Other than the fact that the seats look great. Was it price, quality, or reputation.

Geo Hahn
12-15-2012, 09:34 AM
...Back to the carpet - make a small "X" across the center hole you made with the nail/awl on the backside of the carpet. Use a small sharpie knife cutter for this and then and push the ring prongs though the carpet.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8481/8255175883_a77db40266_z.jpg



I have always installed these snaps the other way 'round, i.e. with the black ring on the outside and the silver piece on the inside -- no hole and nearly invisible that way.

PeterK
12-15-2012, 09:46 AM
I have always installed these snaps the other way 'round, i.e. with the black ring on the outside and the silver piece on the inside -- no hole and nearly invisible that way.

Me too. But I also have had trouble with the snaps not holding and Geo's method of using a spacer under the male side is a great idea.

luke44
12-15-2012, 11:03 PM
I have always installed these snaps the other way 'round, i.e. with the black ring on the outside and the silver piece on the inside -- no hole and nearly invisible that way.

Hmm...never thought of that. Oh well, they don't show but good to keep in mind for the next one...

luke44
12-15-2012, 11:10 PM
Occasional seat....

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8479/8258942682_de96708ca4_z.jpg

Keep the old wood base until you make up a pattern with new plywood. Screw inserts available from Ace Hardware...

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8503/8257874431_36f1358642_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8498/8258942318_a044bae499_z.jpg

The Skinner kit for this piece was as easy as anything. Leather cover, all sewn, padding included. Basically lay on the plywood, staple and go....

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8494/8258942100_00b528626a_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8059/8257873919_d310bdeba2_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8363/8257873869_8c60267627_z.jpg

Next up - steering wheel and horn/signal head install....

luke44
06-20-2013, 08:57 PM
I can't believe it's been 6 months since I've posted to this thread. A few new pix:

Obvious tip shown in this pic: Be sure you have the steering wheel on before completing the wiring threading - the nut does no good where it is at this stage. Ask me how I know :rolleye:.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2877/9092716081_ede5ba71ed_b.jpg

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2869/9092715975_0164919d7a_b.jpg

Obvious tip here: If it doesn't all pull down through the stator tube, cut off a connector and try again. Thanks to Mark Macy on this one. Tip #2 - use heavier pull wire - mine broke.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7408/9094937264_51d8a5fd26_b.jpg

Looking up into the inside of the rear fender. Note the small L bracket just to the right of the drain tube. There have been other posts on exactly where this piece goes.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3790/9094949842_05a8ac1950_b.jpg

I lucked out a few years ago and found real NOS pieces for the fender guards. The fit was very good. I've read lots of posts that the repro's of these pieces are a problem to fit and require a lot of fiddling.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7404/9092728495_d62dd46123_b.jpg

The fender trim strip clips are a pain to stay in place without a slight amount of persuasion.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5442/9094948400_50be0c9251_b.jpg

I like the reflection in the background of my '65 911 in the chrome deflectors here. Totally accidental.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2835/9094948680_1018d8ecdc_b.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5536/9094949354_05698fb52e_b.jpg

Some more NOS parts from the same clear out. I was in the right place at the right time. Thanks to former So Cal TR dealer from waaaay back - Albert Roth.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7400/9092727413_2a6dd7af0a_b.jpg

Install the rubber trunk seal after bolting down the fenders. Otherwise to get the screwdriver on the pan heads in there you end up having to pull it out, spend tediouis amounts of time removing the glue, and then having to re-install it. Duuhh.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3767/9094949592_af7dfe5a29_b.jpg

RC64
06-20-2013, 10:30 PM
Bruce...

As usual, your posts are extremely helpful. I'm still indebted to you for sending a number of photos to me several months ago. On my TR-3A the body is back on the frame and in my shop where I can be "hands on" on a daily basis now. I find myself consulting your photos more often than any other resource as I get all these parts back in place.

Rick...

luke44
06-20-2013, 11:11 PM
Thanks for the kind words Rick. Yes, getting the body back on the frame is a real psychological turning point - kind'a like the moment of conception - a car is born!

mallard
06-21-2013, 12:14 AM
Bruce great job, but I have to question the tail light being all NOS. I know your car is later than mine but no Phillips screws on my car. Can you post a picture of how you installed the trunk seal in the corners? Thanks

luke44
06-21-2013, 09:05 AM
Bruce great job, but I have to question the tail light being all NOS. I know your car is later than mine but no Phillips screws on my car. Can you post a picture of how you installed the trunk seal in the corners? Thanks

OK will grab a pic over the weekend on the trunk seal corners. They are glued back in but I know the detail you are looking for.

As for the tail lights - I actually had 2 of them in the box shown. They both came as shown and I actually kept and put the folded down box in the cars record book as I had a feeling this was unusual to see a genuine original box. But, were they made in the '60's, 70's, 80's? Who knows? I'm not building my car for concurs competition so I don't really care one way or the other, and it's easy enough to swap out a screw, but I felt the boxes were rare enough in their own right and had historic value.

I had 3 old tail light bases in my various parts boxes when I got the car. There were some subtle differences between the 3 of them themselves, and the tail lights in the Lucas boxes. I would be glad to take a photo to show this. But I am very sure the ones I used are very old new stock and they were from an original Triumph dealer - a guy named Albert Roth from CA who was active back in the day - '60's and '70's. He is elderly today and hadn't been active in the hobby for some time. He was clearing out his remaining few parts at the time. I grabbed a bunch of stuff from him - a lot of stuff packed in boxes similar to as shown.

My 2 cents is this shows that perhaps the factory and suppliers like Lucas may have made small design changes along the way, switched suppliers, changed screws, etc. I know when it came time to restore my 1/4 x 28 bolts for the front fenders I documented something like 8 different bolt head types/markings, so how can anyone, 50 years later, really say what the correct bolt are for say a front fender versus a transmission tunnel or wherever on the car? We will never really know for sure, because we weren't there - we can only piece back together as best we can with what we have. We only have 1 or 2 original cars with original owners as reference points, which are invaluable of course, but even with that who's to say TR didn't change a fitting or bolt 20 cars later on the line? It's an invaluable reference but still a single data point. All these years later these details become the basis of great debate amongst enthusiasts like us.

Which, is all part of the fun of the hobby isn't it? :friendly_wink:

luke44
06-23-2013, 07:17 PM
Trunk seal corners as requested. I cut a bit of the inside away to turn the corner.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3766/9121813242_e49e38f8d1_c.jpg

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2817/9119586035_615f3a74b1_c.jpg

Also the tail light lenses I had. The one on the right is that new one that was in the lucas box - I cannot see any difference to the used ones that came in my parts boxes. Markings are identical but slightly different size (can't see in photo due to flash).

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3830/9121841966_a262b7da48_c.jpg

mallard
06-25-2013, 07:23 PM
Bruce thank you for the trunk seal pictures. As for the lights I'm sure there were some variations because they went on so many different cars and years produced.

RC64
10-31-2013, 09:32 PM
Bruce...

This is a reply to your post #72 in your "ground up" thread. The second photo down shows your dash and the cap rail. I've been browsing the photos you sent me and came up with several in that sequence. I'm trying to decide what type of vinyl to use in covering my dash, the door panels, all of the cap rails, etc. I've got some samples from a shop down in Asheville that sells the material by the yard but haven't yet made up my mind. One of them is quite pliable and would be easy to work around all of the compound curves.

It also looks like you used some padding on the quarter panels and doors. What thickness did you use? I've seen some that are really "puffy" and that didn't appeal to me. Yours look good though. Did you pad under the vinyl over the wheel wells?

My question to you is, what source did you use for the material on the dash and the cap rail. Are they the same material? From the stitching around the gap for the steering column I'm wondering if that piece came from Moss or one of the other suppliers as a kit. I planned on going all black without the piping, but after looking at your photos again I'm having second thoughts about maybe going the white on black route.

Decisions... decisions... <G>

Rick...

luke44
10-31-2013, 10:39 PM
Hi Rick - glad the pix are helping.

My particular car was noted on the British Heritage sheet as having come from the factory with black "leather interior" when built in '59 and so I decided to take extra care to match the original as close as possible for this step. I researched this a fair bit. My conclusion was what that basically meant was the seats were leather, as well as the cap rail all around the cockpit, not anything else. (of course one can do what one wants, and there is always debate about stuff like this - I was only trying to get this part of my restoration done as original, according to my research.)

The dash board and the rest of the interior is vinyl. I really feel the interior trim is a critical part of the restoration, and I was not going to buy on price, but rather research it to get it as close to original as possible. After consulting with Mark Macy (https://www.macysgarage.com/index.html), who is a national concurs judge (good enough for me) I decided to use Jonathon Skinner (https://john-skinner.co.uk/) in the UK, and bought all the interior components from them. Not to start a battle here, as I know there is a low cost eBay seller a lot of guys use, but Mark was really against seat kits that use "foam" (see para 2) (https://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/seat_kits.htm) instead of the correct springs and the horsehair). I also was persuaded to have Mark trim out my seats for a grand total of $800 including blasting, repairing, and painting the original steel shells, trimming out the seats, and return freight. Glad I did - the results are spectacular (no creases or folds), and my total time involved was an hour or so taking the old seats to a "We-Pack-It" store. Anyway... the entire interior - the correct wool carpets (also original to a s/n 31xxx car - later ones switched to nylon), and all interior pieces, arrived in 2 very large boxes after I wrote Skinner a check for $2000.00 which included shipping.

The stitching around the steering column pocket was pre-sewn into the dash piece by Skinner - it fit perfect - just lay it on the dash and glue it down. The cockpit trim pieces were supplied as pre-cut sheets of leather that had to be fitted and glued to the steel u-shaped pieces (the elbow-rest pieces on top of the door are especially tricky because the leather is heavier than the vinyl, making the chrome button that goes in the end a tight fit).

The door panels came pre-trimmed from Skinner and include the very light foam padding as well as the backer board. I guess your reference to them was from this posting here (https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?91836-TR3-Door-Panel-Screws-Location-How-Many-and-Where). I've only test fitted them at this time, and still haven't finished mounting them yet - this will come after I get the front fenders and nose completed shortly. But yes, Skinner, as well as Lou Metalko (post #3 in the door panel posting) and Mark Macy all talk about the downside of having too thick of an under pad. I'm quite certain the Skinner pads are correct in this regard.

Other pieces like the wool carpet and the vinyl for the dash and rear inner wheel wells had to be fitted (I followed Mark's great guide (https://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/wheel_arch_covers.htm) for that rear inner fenders and it turned out well).

So that's it. Again, no knock on the domestic suppliers. It's just the route I chose -(I guess I do kinda' believe in "old world craftsmanship"). I found Skinner to be very friendly and knowledgeable if not a bit long on lead time - I get the sense they "make to order" and patience is to be expected. Anyway, when I added it all up, in the end it didn't seem to be any extra cost. And as it turned out the components arrived long before I was ready for them.

Hope this helps, B

RC64
11-03-2013, 10:30 AM
Bruce...

First, I'm curious about how you found out about the history of your particular TR? I recall seeing something about "Heritage" for finding out some basic information. Are there other resources as well?

>> I really feel the interior trim is a critical part of the restoration <<

That's obvious from the series of photos and dialog that you've posted. I've been through your scenario a couple of times in preparation for my installation. I already have a carpet kit that was purchased from Moss by the first guy that was working on my car. He was good at finding good deals when the sales popped up. It's in good shape so I'm going to go with it. The seats are also in excellent shape. They were replaced by my brother in law when he had the car for awhile. They are not the same as the originals, but they will work fine and since my goal now is to get the car on the road asap. I'll save any upgrades for a future winter project. The links to Mark Macy were quite helpful. I might just consider going that route should I decide to upgrade.

>> The cockpit trim pieces were supplied as pre-cut sheets of leather that had to be fitted and glued to the steel u-shaped pieces <<

That brings up another question. I will be doing the covering of the caps around the rails. In preparation I've been trying to remove as much of the old glue as possible. 3M Adhesive Remover has worked pretty good on the light layers of glue on the exterior surfaces after the old vinyl was removed. However, it's been a real struggle attacking the heavier layers on the inside of the pieces where the tag ends were glued. That old glue just doesn't want to give in easily. I know I need to get all the glue off the exterior surfaces so they will be perfectly smooth, but I've considered leaving some of the hard to remove glue on the inside of the caps. I'm going to do some testing, but I'm thinking that a new layer of contact glue over the old ought to work fine. Any thoughts on this?

>> Hope this helps, B <<

I was spending so much time rooting through your photos and printing copies when I got home from my shop I loaded them up on a laptop and started carrying them with me. Yah, I'd say they have helped. <G>

Rick...

luke44
11-03-2013, 12:53 PM
Hi Rick - the history came from various sources. The BMH Heritage sheet provided part of it (see below) confirming the color, the leather interior, the wire wheels, and overdrive. The TRF carpet offerings (https://trf.zeni.net/TR2-TR3Handbook/index.php?menu=&page=31) made note that 3A's prior to 35351 had the wool carpet. (That hurt $$ a bit, as the wool was pretty much double the price of the nylon, ouch). That was also confirmed in Bill Piggott's book page 42 "Original Triumph TR2, 3, 3A which used the same cutoff point. Finally, I spoke with Skinner to find out what "leather interior" meant and he confirmed it was just the seats and the cappings, not the rest, although some customers do order it to trim out the entire interior in leather.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3832/10649018595_190d161869_z.jpg

I guess if like you I had usable parts provided by the previous owner I would have gone with them, but I had nothing in this area, so it was just as easy to source the parts to match the original car as anything else. As for the old glue, yes I recall it was a bear. I spent some time with a wire brush on a drill to remove the worst of it, and some on the underside I just left in place as it didn't affect the fit. The leather is also a bit heavier and I think it may hide a few surface irregularities better than the vinyl. The downside was it was also a bit more difficult to work with on the real tight turns.

A few closeup pix of the caps...

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7405/10649826806_6f8596bed5_c.jpg


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/10649796575_50548bb587_c.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3810/10649826286_15b0dd167c_c.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5479/10649795415_220a74ee5c_c.jpg

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2854/10649794495_43b072b86c_c.jpg

luke44
11-03-2013, 01:30 PM
While I'm at it posting pix, a few of the front fenders and nose (finally) going on the car...and of course as luck would have it in spite of all the care I took I dented one of the chrome fender bead strips, so the RF fender has to be loosened up and install a new bead strip. 2 steps forward, 1 back....

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3783/10649819464_3d493ba68f_b.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3674/10649820164_565d7596e8_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7439/10649798675_e527385dec_b.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3686/10649821274_ddee840070_b.jpg

mallard
11-03-2013, 02:10 PM
Bruce the car is looking fantastic, your doing a great job.

RC64
11-07-2013, 11:19 AM
Bruce...

>> As for the old glue, yes I recall it was a bear. I spent some time with a wire brush on a drill to remove the worst of it, and some on the underside I just left in place as it didn't affect the fit. The leather is also a bit heavier and I think it may hide a few surface irregularities better than the vinyl. <<

I've tried everything I can think of on the old glue on mine. On the steel parts I even gave it a shot with a sand blaster using the coal slag grit. Didn't seem to phase the glue at all. It just bounced off, but it did clean off the bare spots on the steel very nicely. Like you, I think I'm going to just let it be on the inner surfaces and glue over it.

Once again, excellent photos. I can easily see the difference in the thickness of the leather on the caps. The last photo under the corner of the dash cap rail illustrates the problem of the thicker material gathering up on the inside. The leather on the quarter rail cap came out very nice. Must have been a challenge with those compound curves.

At the moment, since I'm really anxious to get this car back on the road asap, and since I have seats that are in good shape, I think I'm going to opt for the vinyl on the caps, dash and wheel wells. My local guy has a product with a very good grain and that is flexible enough to make the job fairly easy. Besides that it's a very good match to the new top I have here.

Rick...

Jerry
11-28-2013, 01:18 PM
Pat,
Mine was binding a little to start, I kept working it with lithium spray and it worked loose. I think all the paint made it tight. I also sealed the box from the footwell side so the box does not leak into the inside.
Jerry

CJD
11-28-2013, 01:57 PM
The best solvent I've found for old glue is laquer thinner, but it still takes a whole lotta elbow grease and most paint comes off with it too.

RC64
11-28-2013, 07:34 PM
John...

I spent some more time on mine with 3M Adhesive Remover and that seems to be working the best for me. But your right, it does take a bunch of effort. Give me an excuse for not going to the gym. <G>

BTW, from your thumbnail it looks like yours is blue. Is it powder blue or the darker color? I opted to go with the original power blue.

30289

Rick...

RC64
12-02-2013, 09:16 PM
As for the old glue, yes I recall it was a bear. I spent some time with a wire brush on a drill to remove the worst of it, and some on the underside I just left in place as it didn't affect the fit. The leather is also a bit heavier and I think it may hide a few surface irregularities better than the vinyl. The downside was it was also a bit more difficult to work with on the real tight turns.

Bruce...

I'm about to start covering the cap trim around the cockpit, and the dash, but I have one more question about how you accomplished that task. The exterior of the cap pieces cleaned up pretty good and I have been able to get most of the big chunks out of the underside. The contact cement shouldn't be a problem with the thin layer that remains in spots.

From your photos I can see that you had very good results with stretching the covering over the caps, especially with the compound curves. The question is, did you use the contact cement (I'm assuming that is what you used. If not what sort of glue did you use?) over the entire surface of the exterior (visible) surface of the cap pieces as well as the interior to secure the tag ends of the covering? Since with contact cement you only have one shot to position the the covering without any wrinkles, it seems a bit tricky to take that approach. I was considering doing the cutting and getting a good dry fit and then gluing one inside edge first. Once that side is secure I envisioned applying the cement to the other interior side as well as the covering and after it has set up, getting a good stretch around the curves back to the inside. Sounds complicated when I reread this, but maybe you'll get the idea. In any case, I'd like to hear how you managed to get such a solid look to yours.

My "other" hobby is R/C model building and flying. Since I go for the kits rather than the ARFs I've had a good bit of experience with covering the airframes with Ultracote and fabric coverings. I've gotten good with the techniques for addressing the complex curves in this environment, but the contact cement approach is going to be a challenge. anything you could add would be appreciated.

Rick...

luke44
06-29-2014, 04:10 PM
A few new pics, slowly getting there...front air deflector

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5586/14536760455_f7817099b9_c.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3912/14536760035_0ed884b76f_c.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/14535281204_d32e1b09c7_c.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5584/14533381971_1610b78476_c.jpg

luke44
06-29-2014, 04:18 PM
And some more...quite happy how the gaps came out.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5556/14350190718_d16a5de62d_c.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5570/14533383431_9ccc6c0180_c.jpg

And the Dzus...

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3849/14350188868_5a0f61ac5c_c.jpg
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2939/14556890323_2db2f992c8_c.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3892/14535786382_dc0fb2c0ab_c.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5483/14350187898_4c923e153c_c.jpg
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2905/14350122250_c8c6307ae9_c.jpg
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2927/14513643836_32fbe961ab_c.jpg

Door latch assembly...

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3920/14350152079_bebb67560e_c.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14533745471_801d0ffb12_c.jpg

CJD
06-29-2014, 04:25 PM
Very nice!!

M_Pied_Lourd
06-29-2014, 07:10 PM
Very nice!!

I totally agree!

Cheers
Tush

mallard
06-29-2014, 07:12 PM
Putting a file to new paint is always scary, if I have to do it I always file on the down stoke on the inside of the panel. You don't want to pull up on it, it may lift some paint. Make sure you get those dzus fittings nice and tight or they'll spin when you turn them to open the hood. Looks great though.

sagebrushbob
06-29-2014, 07:36 PM
I am seriously impressed!
Thanks for the inspiration, and for the great photos of the work!!
Bob

TR4nut
06-29-2014, 09:11 PM
beautiful, and great pics to use too!

Tr3aguy
06-30-2014, 09:19 AM
And to think that we started just about the same time.....You are well on your way and mighty fine work.....good to see!

luke44
06-30-2014, 09:36 AM
Thanks JP. I remember when you took your car to the same dipping shop I used (Quikstrip - now defunct by the way). It's been hard to find the time to keep at it. I basically didn't turn a wrench for 6 months, just getting back at it now. Hope to post some more pix of my progress over the next while...

toysrrus
07-01-2014, 04:03 AM
Hi Bruce,

I simply wanted to say; "What an outstanding" job your doing on your TR. I personally love "Detail" work & the fine detail your doing to yours reminds me of my `57 Small Mouth I was restoring just 3yrs ago.

Fast Question; Relative to the "Fiberboard Shroud Mtg"; I ord. one from Moss yesterday. Were the 4 Mtg. holes already in your Inner Fenders or did you have to drill them? I have`nt looked at mine so ?????

Keep up the "Outstanding" work.

Russ

luke44
07-01-2014, 08:22 AM
Thanks for the kind words Russ. I have tried to post photos for others, as I inherited boxes of parts and did not have the luxury of knowing how things came apart. I'm sure others will be in similar positions to varying degrees.

The lower holes in the shroud line up with the holes for the chrome bumperette support rods. Actually that's all I use to keep the shroud in place. As for the top holes, my speculation is they may be there for the wiring to the turn signals, but I didn't use them. Yes, all 4 holes were already there on the shroud when I got it (from TRF).

TR3driver
07-01-2014, 07:48 PM
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7115/7736452146_367a01dd7d_z.jpg

Hey, Bruce, I spotted something that you might like to know about. The car is totally awesome, so I think you'll want to get each detail as correct as possible. There were two different panel light knobs used, the one with the arrows on the bottom edge (which I think is what I see in the photo) is for later cars with the rheostat for the panel lights. Since you have it in the top hole, I'm assuming that your car has the simple switch for the panel lights, and so should have the knob without the arrows.

If you do have the rheostat, it should be in the center hole, not top.

I'll assume you've already noticed that the wiper wheelboxes are installed wrong in this photo.

PS, Thanks for all the pix. I'm squirreling them away for future reference.

Brinkerhoff
07-01-2014, 10:26 PM
The quality of the job looks great I might add. You spent a lot of time and it shows ! Cheers !

luke44
07-02-2014, 08:58 AM
... There were two different panel light knobs used, the one with the arrows on the bottom edge (which I think is what I see in the photo) is for later cars with the rheostat for the panel lights. Since you have it in the top hole, I'm assuming that your car has the simple switch for the panel lights, and so should have the knob without the arrows. If you do have the rheostat, it should be in the center hole, not top.

I'll assume you've already noticed that the wiper wheelboxes are installed wrong in this photo....

Thanks Randall, I will check into this detail. The panel was actually one of those items that had been completed by the previous owner, so I did not research it, I just took it as correct. My car is s/n 31577 which I would consider an early 3A so it probably has the plain switch w/o rheostat.

Regarding the wheel boxes, yes I found that out the hard way very early on. Being as the drive cable assembly is one of the very first things to be installed it was quite painful to have to fix and flip it around when I discovered it at the windshield install step. But it had to be done. A good tip for future installers to check during the install phase.

mallard
07-02-2014, 07:43 PM
Shouldn't the speedo be on the left side? My dash plate only has the hole for the trip mile reset knob on the left side. Bruce I see yours has a hole for the speedo reset on the right.

RC64
07-02-2014, 08:04 PM
I have tried to post photos for others,.

Bruce...

Indeed you have. And they have been a tremendous resource. I still consult them on a regular basis. Since my TR is about to hit the road, perhaps I won't have to consult them quite as often now. :encouragement:

Rick...

TR3driver
07-02-2014, 08:57 PM
Shouldn't the speedo be on the left side? My dash plate only has the hole for the trip mile reset knob on the left side. Bruce I see yours has a hole for the speedo reset on the right.
Early cars (like yours and mine) had the speedo on the left even when they were LHD. I don't have the change point handy, but later cars had the speedo on the right (when LHD) so the navigator could see it better when doing TSD rallys.

PS, Piggott gives the change point as TS29098.

mallard
07-02-2014, 09:15 PM
Thanks Randall and also for the bit of information about the Rally cars and the co-drivers.

luke44
07-05-2014, 12:53 PM
Finally, front end finished. Gettin' there...

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5314/14576960781_30fa73e7ff_c.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5571/14580292135_6929bd3df9_c.jpg


https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5566/14393878907_3135c58015_c.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3879/14557223346_8e12d708f7_c.jpg


https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2904/14557220436_72dfce5f16_c.jpg

tinman58
07-05-2014, 05:18 PM
oh that is soooooo beautiful!!! Great work Bruce

toysrrus
07-06-2014, 04:39 AM
Oh so Sweet Bruce!!!

"Outstanding"!!

Happy Motoring Soon.

Russ

PS: Just curious; Was the "Grille" chrome plated or polished alum? Mine is "Hand Polished" (Never Dull) works real well.

luke44
07-06-2014, 04:41 PM
...Just curious; Was the "Grille" chrome plated or polished alum? Mine is "Hand Polished" (Never Dull) works real well.

Hi Russ, I'm not that ambitious. Mine was special treated - by a single hard swipe with my credit card, aka TRF part # 802174. ;-)

In all seriousness though, I have kept my old one. One difference is the grill slot openings - noticeably smaller on the repro piece. I may someday try to see if I can save the original one.

TR3driver
07-07-2014, 12:24 AM
One difference is the grill slot openings - noticeably smaller on the repro piece.
Curious. I thought TRF claimed that they fixed that. The smaller slots are actually as per the original drawings (as I understand it), but the factory found that they were blocking too much air flow and modified the piece to open them up. Some of us have actually gone as far as to open them up further by hand.

The aluminum may have been treated in some way (anodized perhaps), but was just polished originally, not chromed.

Tr3aguy
07-07-2014, 06:13 AM
Custom designed license plate mount??

HerronScott
07-07-2014, 06:45 AM
Curious. I thought TRF claimed that they fixed that. The smaller slots are actually as per the original drawings (as I understand it), but the factory found that they were blocking too much air flow and modified the piece to open them up.

I thought I had read the same thing about TRF fixing that.

Scott

DornTRoriginal
07-10-2014, 04:23 PM
All I can say is WOW! Talk about inspiration, thank you for sharing. I hope I can duplicate what you have shown to all of us on my own project (TS 35675) which is going to be exactly the same as your car. I am waiting on the body to be painted.....

luke44
06-28-2015, 10:02 PM
It's been a looong time coming....all I can say is.... today was a very good day....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPtSuDge8xQ&amp;feature=youtu.be

M_Pied_Lourd
06-29-2015, 08:24 AM
Awesome Bruce. Congratulations! Sounds great.

Cheers
Tush

RC64
07-23-2016, 09:04 PM
Bruce...

I'm about to replace my 'original' radiator (don't ask why) and have decided to go with the Wizard Cooling aluminum radiator like the one in the photo of yours. You mentioned it was powder coated. I've read that they will do that. Any recollection about the added cost?

Also, what coolant are you running in it to reduce corrosion?

Rick...

mallard
07-24-2016, 02:03 PM
Rick I almost went with the Wizard radiator myself. I was going to have mine anodized black by them for around $50.00. I decided against buying one because they wanted $100.00 for a radiator without their Wizard logo on the neck.

Tr3aguy
07-24-2016, 08:55 PM
Wow that was great to see Congrats she sounds strong!

DavidApp
07-26-2016, 10:31 PM
Hello Bruce

Sounds great. How long has it been since it last ran?

Reading through your thread you mentioned that you had some good shots of the build. I am rebuilding a TR3 that has had WORK done to both sides in the "B" post and Quarter panel area. Neither side was original so I am going with my best guess. If you had shots of that area from a car that had not been messed with it would help me decide if I am on the right path. Need the underside looking up at the inner sill/quarter panel area.

Thank you
David

RC64
07-27-2016, 09:08 PM
Keith...

I bit the bullet on Monday and went for their standard version without the powder coat. It will be here on Friday. Should be back on the road shortly.

Rick...

M_Pied_Lourd
07-27-2016, 09:13 PM
Rick,

I have a wizard aluminum in my 60 with a SPAL fan mounted. Love it!

Cheers
Tush

RC64
07-28-2016, 08:28 PM
Tush...

The Wizard is due to arrive tomorrow. I'm waiting on the pulley from TRF that will be replaced also. Hopefully it will all be back together in a matter of days. One upside to this is I'm getting pretty good at removing and replacing the apron and all the fixtures. This time it came off in bit over two hours, and that included hunting down someone to help me lift off the bonnet and then the apron. But then all the bolts and captive nuts had been well lubed. I'm a novice at these auto-shop exercises and was very reluctant to try it the first time, but wouldn't hesitate to encourage others to go for it.

Rick...