View Full Version : TR6 TR6 leaking at brake pedal

09-24-2004, 03:28 PM
I have a small leak dripping onto the floor that's coming from the brake pedal. Anyone know where it might be coming from and should I check the servo seals/gaskets or master cylinder?

09-24-2004, 03:37 PM
It's coming from your brake master cylinder. It's probably time for a rebuild, not a difficult job. Fix it now, it will only get worse with time.

Anyone else?

09-24-2004, 04:55 PM
for sure its seeping along the piston rod on the master cylinder. Forget the rebuild, and get a new unit if you can. Try Victoria British, or the Roadster Factory. Rebuilt master cylinders are just trouble waiting to happen.

09-24-2004, 05:31 PM
Mike, I would get that MC replaced before too long. The job is easy and the cost to replace or repair far outweighs the alternative. . .

Rick O.
09-24-2004, 05:39 PM
And also drain all the brake fluid out of the servo reservoir. I don't see how it is possible to get wet feet without accumulating fluid in the servo too.

09-24-2004, 05:40 PM
Thanks for your help everyone.

09-24-2004, 05:42 PM
I had the same issue 2 years ago. I went the way of rebuilding the cylinder. Parts $18 at Checker auto parts.
I would certainly run some 400 grit around inside the bore to smooth things out. Took a couple hours and on the road!
It was tougher to bleed the lines than anything else.
Good luck

09-24-2004, 05:51 PM
Jeff, as a newbie, what is 400 grit? Also, what's the best way to bleed the lines and how and when should I go about doing that? Should I drain the resevoir first, then take it apart? I have all of the manuals for it (just not handy at work) so I'm sure it will walk me through it. But sounds like you have it down, so any walkthrough would be great. Thanks for your time.

09-24-2004, 05:52 PM
bleeding the lines is easy with the Gunson Eezi-bleed system. Keep your old master cylinder cap to attach to the bleeder hose. You'll have to punch a small hole in the top of it because the kit has a million caps, but not one to fit that big brake master cylinder cap for the TR6. It runs off of pressure from you spare tire, and it flushes the system out like water from a faucet. It's the easiest and most efficient hydraulic bleeder system I've ever used.

09-24-2004, 06:03 PM
Thanks Steven, where can I get that system?

09-24-2004, 07:39 PM
You can get the black emery paper with various grit levels - 240, 320, 400. The higher the number the finer grit on the it. Any hardware store or auto supply place will have some. I like using the finer type so it leaves a smooth surface behind after getting debris and rough spots out. I put it around my finger and sanded the inside of the cylinder as far back as I could get. To get the back locations I used a wooden dowel with that sandpaper around it.
You will need to drain the master cylinder and remove the lines attached to it. There are 2 nuts holding it to the brake booster (large metal drum at the firewall). Be VERY carefull with the rags and drips - brake fluid is caustic to painted surfaces. A small interal clip holds the parts of the piston and valve together. When you do get it to that point just make sure you pay close attention to the order of things as you pull it apart. After sanding clean things thoroughly. Installation is basically the reverse of things. One thing to note is when re-installing the new plunger make sure you carefully slide the plunger back in. It should go without binding - although a tight fit.

So, that's an abbreviated explaination of how I did it. I still haven't picked up one of those Eezi-bleed units and should being I do enough maintenance to justify it.

09-24-2004, 10:16 PM
Gunson's Eezi Bleed system can be purchased from the Roadster Factory, and probably Victoria British. Moss Motors has it also, but their prices are too high.

09-25-2004, 03:38 AM
Use the proper brake cylinder hone, rather than sandpaper. Run it slowly, using brake fluid as a lubricant, and be sure to clean the cylinder VERY thoroughly afterward.
The hone can be found at any auto parts store, and is inexpensive. It will give you the proper finish in the bore, as well as making sure the bore is round.