View Full Version : TR6 REskinning TR6 Doors

10-05-2009, 10:56 AM
I decided to have my doors reskinned, after removing the paint there were a lot of holes and welds at the top front and rear and on the DS a bunch of dents that I dont feel good about just bondoing them up, so has anyone reskinned their doors, I have seen it done on youtube and it looks fairly easy and they have a pretty cheap crimping tool to fold the edge over


10-05-2009, 11:19 AM
Let us know how that goes.

10-05-2009, 11:35 AM
All I know is body shops don't like to do it. I talked to them about doing one for my car and they charged about double what it would be to buy a new door.

I am not sure what that means but it means something.

10-05-2009, 12:23 PM
My suggestion after having mine done. Have them align the skins with the doors on

10-05-2009, 05:27 PM
I have door skins yet to be installed. Not really sure whether I will do it or try and farm it out, but not at twice the price of a new door!

What has me a bit concerned doing it myself is the process of hammering over the fold without distorting the outer panel. This is especially troublesome on the top curve of the door.

And yes to Don, before the skins are tacked or epoxied into place, they need to be fitted to the car and aligned.

Oh, on that crimping tool, I used one when repairing a fender, it gives a very sharp thin edge. I prefer the more rounded edge you get from working with the hammer.

I think I will wait until you have done yours and report back to us... <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

10-05-2009, 05:29 PM
Ray, Please,Please don't ask me how I know.

10-05-2009, 07:28 PM
Sometimes the skins will oilcan on you if you don't get them just right. You might want to consider repairing the doors you have, or look for replacements. Keep an eye out for Phoenix Craigslist under Triumph parts. They do come up at times.

10-05-2009, 08:19 PM
All I know is body shops don't like to do it. I talked to them about doing one for my car and they charged about double what it would be to buy a new door.

I am not sure what that means but it means something.

LOL Tom.

10-05-2009, 08:49 PM
well I will definately go the 3m pannel bonding adhesive route and then fold over the edge either hammer and dolly or the tool I ordered, and with the doors in place to get the alignment, the TRF book say in Rodger williams book how to restore tr250 and tr6 there is a part on door skinning ,, anyone have the book and willing to scan the few pages and pm an email, When I get the door skins in I will decide what I am going to do and call around, My door skins are in such bad shape too much welding to do to patch all the holes and cracks and dents

Andrew Mace
10-05-2009, 09:41 PM
Reskinning a door: yet another body shop task that seems mostly to have gone the way of lead-loading and metal shaping in general. But such are the economic realities of shops that do primarily collision work, I suppose!

Many years ago, my dad brought home a deaccessioned book from the library; it was a late 1940s auto body textbook. Most of the techniques are still valid (although I suspect most shops no longer line each side of a to-be-welded seam with wet asbestos paste!), but some of the tasks they show are jobs that just plain wouldn't be done except maybe for a beginner to get some practice on a skill he/she might never use.

10-06-2009, 05:38 PM
well the door skins will be here tomorrow and I will be home on Thursday, so I will get to access the project. I purchased the 2 part urethane body adhesive today only 42.00 and then the 50.00 application gun. working time 70 minutes at 70 degrees, that should give me time to hammer over the edges and get it on the car and be able to move the skin a tad to get the seams to line up. We shall see


10-07-2009, 03:27 PM
I've done them. Not as difficult as you might think. If the skins come with the edges pre-bent 90 degrees, you can "help" them over with the wide flat vise grips first to get them farther over. ease the whole edge over gradually all along the whole edge, a little bit at a time. When you use your hammer, make sure you keep a (flat) dolly on the opposite side under the edge. I have found that after removing the old skin, the edge of the inner door panel is usally rusty and should be sand blasted to clean it up first and painted. The door gets all wobbly when the old skin is removed. Take the door off and install the skin loosely! install the door, line it up, move the skin around on the inner part of the door and adjust hinges for perfect fit. THEN, tighten the skin to the door (on the car) and adjust the squareness of the door to avoid a big twist. Tack weld,check fit as you go, seam sealer, done.
I like to pre-paint the inner of the door skin first since they usually come only primed (not water proof-epoxy primer required to be water proof).
ps-I'm no expert but that's how i do it. (my dad's a retired bodyman with 40+ years experience-always had a car on the go inthe garage while i was growing up- i learned a few things).

10-09-2009, 05:09 PM
thanks TRfortune, I didnt think it could be as hard as some say but I do have the ability that some dont, here are some pics of the progress, the color is super red, not original but dont really care

10-09-2009, 05:10 PM
pic2 which should be pic one

10-10-2009, 12:32 PM
just finished painting the inside of the door skins, left bare matal around the edge for bonding adhesive as required by directions

10-10-2009, 01:34 PM
I know you are going to do this, but just in case, a simple reminder to be sure to apply your sound deadening material before you put the skin on.

10-10-2009, 04:02 PM
Thanks, almost forgot about it, so what should I use, dont think I can pull the old stuff on the old skin? Any suggestions?


10-10-2009, 05:15 PM
Hondo, I used two layers of Dynamat Xtreme inside the tub where the original stuff was, and plan to use it on the doors as well.

There are other products out there that I am sure members will bring to your attention.

The old stuff is asphalt based, so if you heat it from the outside of old door skin you might be able to peel it off. Once removed, I am not sure how well it will adhere to the new door.

IMO, it's best to go with modern products.

10-11-2009, 11:37 AM
ok driver side door, the skin is on, surpriseingly it was fairly easy, the skin zipper I purchased is a POS so dont bother unless you are skinning your doors with tin foil, so a hammer and rubber sanding block worked just fine, I tack welded the top but glued the whole skin so when it sets up should be good, the only minor body filling I will have to do is where I used the skin zipper, very minor though

10-11-2009, 11:38 AM
next photo

10-11-2009, 01:19 PM
Wow, nice job. What hammers did you use, especially for the top curved areas?

10-12-2009, 05:27 AM
just used a regulay hammer

10-17-2009, 09:40 AM
Ok doors are done and it was not as difficult as some think, I welded the top portion of the skin to the door frame, all is well, now on to the hood


10-17-2009, 10:21 AM
I have skinned hundreds of doors in the last 35 years.If you do not own a skinning hammer you may wish to farm out the tr4/6 door.The angle of the lower lip is too tight to the edge of the shell for a regular hammer to hit squarely.
If you can borrow one go ahead,its a walk in the park,mostly.
pointers......Get a small block of pine and wrap it with duct tape,use this as your dolly it will not damage the pristine finish of the outer skin.
de-rust your casing carefully and use a weld through primer.
as mentioned earlier, once crimped onto the casing,fit the door to the car!!!NEVER weld anything till it fits like a glove.
once fitted dress off the edges and mig weld the skin in place with a heat that doesnt penetrate the outer panel.stitch it every 4 or 5 inches.
buy a good sound deadener pad for the inside of the skin at a stereo shop it should self-adhere.
after the welds are dressed,etching ,priming and seam sealing are done before paint.Lastly the outer panel rustproofing is applied(waxoil,kent etc) it should flow into the crimped seam to seal it off.
if you try to do this with acetaline, be sure to get really drunk first,a poor excuse is better than none...
MD(mad dog)

10-17-2009, 01:31 PM
Well MD where were you prior to me putting the skins on???? Well they dont weld pannels on any more now they use pannel adhesive so the stitch welding is not necessary, and is approved my Mercedes, toyota, yada yada, but on the TR6 door I welded the top where the skin meets the front and back inner door, and yes could have used a skinning hammer but once I ground the face of my hammer flat it worked just fine and I used a rubber sanding block as a dolly, I didnt put the doors on the car to test the fit, why you ask well when the top edge fits perfect there is no moving the pannel so why bother. Besides its a 38 year old car,. not going to be perfect, I bet its better than it was and since it was my Very first and second door skin, I did it my self!

10-19-2009, 11:54 PM
Yes its fine to use panel bonding on doors that were designed to have the necessary surface area to yeild a strong joint.IMHO the tr6 does NOT.So I would caution against it in this case.The other issue for the DYI guy is getting hold of the gun to dispense the glue,not cheap.
In any case I am glad it all worked out for you.......so far.
MD(mad dog)

Simon TR4a
10-20-2009, 03:09 PM
I am sorry I didn't see your post earlier, i have a pair of excellent doors (from New Mexico) you could have had.
Sorry about that!

10-20-2009, 04:22 PM
Keep pressing ahead Hondo - been great to get updates from you on how this is coming along.

10-22-2009, 08:10 AM
hopefully today the doors will go back on as will the front fenders and the new hood so I can spray primer sufacer on and start the block sanding process. Pics later today when all is back on


10-22-2009, 01:07 PM
If you try to do this with acetaline, be sure to get really drunk first,a poor excuse is better than none...
MD(mad dog)

That is absolutely hilarious.......... You made my day.

10-23-2009, 07:29 AM
Ok here is the final productwith the doors back on the car. I still need to adjust the doors a little more, they actually fit better now than when I took them off, but for now I can scuff the whole car and put primer surfacer on and start the block sanding process, future post will be either a new post or back to the repaint post

10-23-2009, 07:32 AM
Drivers side