View Full Version : Fuel pump Micro polish, and shaft seal question

09-07-2009, 05:20 PM
I was thinking of sending my fuel pump housings to Jeffs to get Micro polished and was wondering if anybody has had it done? And if you did did you remove the primer lever?

Also the diaphragm shaft seal on mine was as hard as a rock and needs to be replaced. Moss states that there kit does not contain this seal. I have an AC Delco repair kit that was purchased in the early 90s and it does not contain this seal. Can I still get this seal and where?

When I took my pump apart it only had one valve in it, but the kit contains two. Is one valve correct for a 56 TR3?

It is an original AC pump.

09-07-2009, 05:51 PM
Has to be two valves for correct operation. When the diaphragm moves down, the outlet valve closes (to keep fuel from flowing backwards from the carbs) and the inlet valve opens, so it can suck fuel from the tank. Then when it rises, the inlet valve closes (so the fuel doesn't go back to the tank) and the outlet opens to allow the fuel to flow into the float bowls.

TRF kits include the shaft seal. But I don't know if they sell it separately.

"Early 90s" may well mean that the diaphragm is not ethanol-resistant. I'd order another one anyway, so you'll have it handy when this one fails.

09-07-2009, 06:04 PM
Thanks Randall for the information. This is what I found when I took the pump apart. I did not think about the ethanol issue.

09-07-2009, 06:05 PM

I think that you will find all the answers you are looking for in Brosky's site


M. Pied Lourd

09-07-2009, 06:13 PM
I did several with Jeff Palya at Micropolishing, LLC and several with Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors. Both do excellent work.

Here is my original how to on rebuilding the pumps: Fuel Pump Rebuilding (https://www.74tr6.com/fuelpump.htm)

I never removed the priming lever and the repair kits in that how to are from TRF.

I have found newer and better kits at: Then and Now Automotive (https://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive_part.htm)

I just haven't done the updated web page on these, but they are complete with a shaft seal for the bottom and good screens for the top. The valves and diaphragm are aircraft grade neoprene that will handle today's fuel and the screens are brass mesh, not plastic.

09-07-2009, 06:29 PM
This is what I found That is both valves. Although the valves themselves are identical, one is installed upside down to the other.

BTW, the TRF kit also includes a brass screen, just as original. However the sediment bowl seal is some sort of synthetic rubber rather than cork. Seals nice and easy, too.

09-07-2009, 06:32 PM

I found this pictures that I posted a while back on these new kits and Jeff Schlemmers polishing work.












09-07-2009, 06:33 PM
Here are the other two pictures that show the complete pump.

The valves are also shown installed, but peened in place, as this pump had no retainer plate like yours.



09-07-2009, 09:08 PM
Try Tom at Antique Auto Parts cellar (781-335-1579) He used to sell
the shaft seals separately (2005) He will want to know the model # of your pump. It's stamped on the underside of the housing casting.

09-07-2009, 09:28 PM
Brosky who did the cad plating for you. The pump could not look any better than that.

Turn one of the valves over you big ------.

Thanks guys

09-08-2009, 06:15 PM

Antique Auto parts Cellar and Then and Now Automotive are one in the same.


Jeff, from Advanced Distributors did the polishing and had the parts plated for me.

09-08-2009, 08:17 PM

I show several pictures of both sides of the valves. Is there something else that you need to see about the valves?

09-08-2009, 09:21 PM
Hi Paul, The pictures show all that I need. After I removed the retaining clip from the body I saw that there were indeed two valves. As stated one is up side down. I was thinking there was only one. I will also look into Then And Now Automotive for the repair kit. After a brief look at their site it looks as though they may have some of the hardware in yellow cad.

09-09-2009, 09:12 AM
they may have some of the hardware in yellow cad.

Excuse me for jumping in here. but your comment reminded me of something that might be useful to others.

There were times during the 3A project that we could not avoid buying parts and fasteners that had a yellow coating. This finish would not have been correct for a TR built in the late 1950's. We found that the yellow coating could be removed easily by using a cotton wheel and polishing compound, followed by a thorough cleaning and clear coat. The results have been very good.

09-09-2009, 12:37 PM
You are correct Frank, as it is normally a light anodizing and comes off easily with the compound. The key is to clear coat it for protection after the removal, which you did point out. Unless you want some rusty looking parts in six months.

Nothing on my car or the pumps that I've rebuilt for others needs to be period correct, so I opted for more color when possible.