View Full Version : Replacing rear leaf springs

09-23-2002, 09:05 PM
When replacing the rear leaf springs, is it also recommended to replace other bushings etc?

09-23-2002, 11:23 PM
This might sound stupid...but while your fixing the leaf-springs why not replace anything that might need to be replaced as a precaution...why do it later...including any of your bushings...check shocks...any and all parts really...if it looks like it will need to be replaced in the next 6-12-18 months...save yourself the time and/or the extra cost...do it now..why wait? images/icons/cool.gif

09-25-2002, 09:30 AM
I have a philosophy for LBCs: "If it's rubber and you touch it, REPLACE IT!" The extra cost of most rubber bits is much, much less than the agony and effort required to re-do the job later, because one of those 35+ year old rubber parts failed.

I also understand that polyurethane parts are available ot upgrade those old, rear suspension parts.

09-25-2002, 10:44 AM
Couldn't agree more. Whilst everything is apart anyway, why not replace the bushings? Save you having to do the job all over again, and keep in mind that new parts tend to expose the weaknesses of old parts, which then fail sooner than they otherwise would. Also, Murphy's Law is an absolute given with British cars!

John Loftus
09-25-2002, 04:10 PM
I remember mine coming with the rubber/metal bushings coming pre-installed but it wouldn't hurt to double check with Moss. I think I've replaced every bit of rubber on that page ... all the Panhard Rod bushings, the rebound buffer and even the conehead looking Axle buffer that was MIA. Much easier to replace all that stuff with the springs off.

Also, a piece of advice. Spray penetrating oil on the pins and nuts and U bolts that hold the springs. Do this each day until the parts arrive! Also, when trying to break the bolts loose, tighten them slightly first, then back them off.


John Loftus
09-26-2002, 03:08 AM
Wanted to point out the rear springs come with new bushings at both ends where they attach. I agree that anytime you are rebuilding something you should look closely for other worn, damaged or loose parts. The only trouble with this approach is job inflation. You know, do a brake job and it turns into a full frame off restoration.


09-26-2002, 03:30 AM

Moss lists the bushings as a seperate part 680-960. I'll remember not to order them.



Ed Kaler
09-26-2002, 10:09 AM
John Loftus wrote and I quote:

"Also, when trying to break the bolts loose, tighten them slightly first, then back them off."

I should like to add that after giving all fasteners the "...tighten slightly..." move, REspray penatrent.

Also, if you can (VERY, VERY slight pressure on nozzel) "foam" the stuff on, works better!!

Good Luck!!
Ed graemlins/thirsty.gif

Scott Brunkhurst
09-26-2002, 10:24 AM
Kroil penetrating oil is the best I've found.


09-26-2002, 12:50 PM
I just cant help but laughing and thinking my whole project would have gone smoother if I just dipped the whole car in penetrating oil before starting.


I'll get more penetrating oil.

09-26-2002, 04:54 PM
My two cents worth. Most likely, you'll have to replace the 'U" bolts that hold the springs to the rear axle.
Johnny, 59bn7