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angelfj1
08-14-2009, 11:38 AM
Found a small (new) puddle of oil under the 250 this morning. I traced it to the oil cooler. At first I thought that the leak was at one of the two threaded connections. No, such luck. This thing is all aluminum and is part of the set up with the spin-on filter adapter, etc that I bought from Moss, part number 235-995, 16 row, dimensions, 11"x5"x2". I notice dozens oil coolers available domestically for less than half of the Moss replacement price of $160.

How critical is the size and how can I be sure that the threads are identical?

PeterK
08-14-2009, 12:42 PM
Frank,

Moss catalogs state that they have a 2 year warranty on parts. fyi.


Most british coolers are 1/2" BSP threads. You can source a new 13 row on ebay for $60 https://tinyurl.com/ockukp

-PK

3798j
08-14-2009, 12:53 PM
Frank, On my GT6, I run a Mocal 10 row with a Mocal thermostat (180deg.). I think it works great on the 2.0 6 cylinder. That threading business is another story. My guess, if you purchased from Moss, you would want the BSP threading. Take a look at this from Mocal: https://64.202.180.37/files/tchart.pdf. (https://64.202.180.37/files/tchart.pdf) It should allow you to determine what you've got.

PeterK
08-14-2009, 01:43 PM
Frank,

These coolers require a solid mount to prevent damage from vibration. The 4 holes on the bottom plate are not enough.

That said, Earl's has a kit for mounting that you could easily fab yourself: https://www.holley.com/data/products/pictures/large1716ERL.jpg

angelfj1
08-14-2009, 02:27 PM
Peter: OK, so the cooler requires a rigid mounting. I had 4 - 1/4-28 bolts/nuts through the bottom flange and the radiator bottom shield. Do you believe this could have caused the leak. The mounting kit appears to provide clamping force between the top and bottom plate. Is that correct? BTW, it appears that I actually got this unit from TRF. I am hoping they will send me a replacement.
Thanks for your input.

PeterK
08-14-2009, 03:15 PM
Yes, the 1/4-28x? bottom only mounting is a problem. Use top and bottom reinforcing plates and long bolts that clamp the cooler tight. Might also want to tie-wrap the hoses to prevent torquing the fittings.

hth

-PK

angelfj1
08-14-2009, 04:03 PM
Thanks Pete. I appreciate your wisdom on this issue!

TR6BILL
08-15-2009, 03:10 AM
I agree with Peter, aluminum oil coolers <span style="font-weight: bold">will</span> crack and cause you to loose your oil. A friend's cooler split, luckily while he parked in his driveway, and dumped his whole oil supply. I used the Earl's clamp on top and bottom and scored four long pieces of stainless 1/4" all-thread and a bunch of stainless nuts, washers and lock nuts to brace the whole thing to the skid plate. Used multiples of each to lock the all-thread to the plate, to the brackets and to itself. Meaning, didn't so much over clamp the cooler as made a very rigid cage for it to rest in. Understand?

angelfj1
08-15-2009, 07:40 AM
I agree with Peter, aluminum oil coolers <span style="font-weight: bold">will</span> crack and cause you to loose your oil. A friend's cooler split, luckily while he parked in his driveway, and dumped his whole oil supply. I used the Earl's clamp on top and bottom and scored four long pieces of stainless 1/4" all-thread and a bunch of stainless nuts, washers and lock nuts to brace the whole thing to the skid plate. Used multiples of each to lock the all-thread to the plate, to the brackets and to itself. Meaning, didn't so much over clamp the cooler as made a very rigid cage for it to rest in. Understand?

Bill, yes I understand the issue now - OK