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KVH
07-20-2009, 01:34 AM
OK, I give up. I'm pulling the radiator and taking it to the shop. It shouldn't be nearing the red zone at 6:00 in the evening with the sun going down, and then again later at night--95 degrees or not.

It runs great, and strong and quick, but it's too hot.

Each time I shut it down, it gurgles and churns. I posted awhile back that I put in a new 5 vane water pump. It's done no good, and maybe causing trouble. The radiator shop says the pump might be causing more pressure than the cap can take.
Who knows.

Anyway, I suppose it's agreed that in the evening, when the day is done (Led Zepplin), the temperature shouldn't be causing my auxiliary fan to kick in with hot water gurgling around in the radiator.

Thanks

CinneaghTR
07-20-2009, 08:59 AM
Good luck. Hope that fixes it.

TR3driver
07-20-2009, 04:35 PM
Each time I shut it down, it gurgles and churns.That might be normal if it was nearly boiling before you shut it off; or you are shutting it off suddenly after a high speed run. The iron of the cylinder head & exhaust manifold holds a lot of heat but of course the coolant is no longer circulating, so the coolant inside the engine gets even hotter after shutting it off.

But it could also be an indication that you have excessive crud built up in the back of the engine block. Rust flakes, etc. tend to settle there because the water velocity is lowest; and once settled they are hard to get out.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] I posted awhile back that I put in a new 5 vane water pump. It's done no good, and maybe causing trouble. The radiator shop says the pump might be causing more pressure than the cap can take.
Who knows.[/QUOTE]If that is the case, you should be finding the system low on water, even if you (gradually) shut down before it comes to a boil.

Check your lower hoses to see if they are soft. Although not common on LBCs, I've seen American engines that would suck the lower hose completely shut, especially if the pressure cap wasn't holding pressure.

Also take the cap with you to the shop, and be sure to ask them about thermal efficiency.

boeingpilot
07-20-2009, 07:00 PM
How about the voltage stabilizer? I had the same situation in my TR4A last summer, and after replacing half the cooling system to no avail I realized the fuel gauge was also inaccurate. I swapped out the stabilizer and everything is cool (pardon the pun).

BTW: Excellent Zeppelin reference. I tried to come up with one of my own, but couldn't top yours.

boeingpilot
07-20-2009, 07:03 PM
Anyway, I suppose it's agreed that in the evening, when the day is done (Led Zepplin), the temperature shouldn't be causing my auxiliary fan to kick in with hot water gurgling around in the radiator.


Nevermind. I suppose I should read the whole post before opening my big mouth.

Terry_Geiger
07-20-2009, 09:31 PM
I think you are on the right track by pulling the radiator. Thermal efficiency drops as crud builds up on the inside of the cooling tubes. Also, be careful with thick shiny paint on the fins, it decreases heat transfer. I usually mist the fins of a radiator with some low gloss black. All you want is the minimum amount of paint to give the radiator some colour on the fins. The tank doesn't matter but the fins do.

trfourtune
07-21-2009, 10:56 AM
check and test your thermostat as well. you want the "right" kind, not one that looks like an american car one.
Rob

TR3driver
07-21-2009, 01:29 PM
For a TR4A, I believe the "right" kind IS the kind that looks like an American one. The factory quit installing the 'sleeved' thermostat, the part number changed and everything.