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View Full Version : Hear's what I came up with- light/badge bar



Got_All_4
07-10-2009, 09:15 PM
About a month ago I was asking about a light and badge bar for my TR250. There is nothing out there unless you want to pay almost $200 from Revington. I went to a salvage store and bought some 3/4 aluminum round stock cut it to length and polished it in my lathe. Then took some 1/8" flat stock and made the end brackets. I used badge bar clips to sucre the bar to the stabilizer brackets that attaches to licence plate bracket holes. Got about $65 in it + the lights.

Could not figure out where to place the light switch. Heaven forbid that I drill the dash or the dash support. Had many suggestions to but it where the TR6 courtesy light goes. What do you think of hooking it directly to the head light switch. After all that is the reason I'm doing this. I received as a gift the H4 European head light conversion and don't like them. I plan to run these together and shoot the driving lights down the road.

Got_All_4
07-10-2009, 09:16 PM
Pic 2

Got_All_4
07-10-2009, 09:18 PM
pic 3. The license plate covers the brackets nicely.

DougF
07-11-2009, 06:48 AM
How about hooking them into the high beam switch? A lot less folks will be flashing their brights at you.

HerronScott
07-11-2009, 08:31 AM
Does your 250 have overdrive? If not, use an overdrive switch and relay. If you do have overdrive, perhaps another overdrive switch on the opposite side unless you think that's too much.

Scott

Got_All_4
07-11-2009, 08:56 AM
No I don't have over drive yet. I'm torn between Toyota conversion or a real one. I do have a j type unit from a Volvo that I've been saving for a while. No bucks right now to do that. So I need to keep that open. Great idea though.

Last night I plugged the lights into the harness, One bulb blow out instantly. Looks like a used Brownie flash bulb now. But was pleasantly surprised the difference that one made. Just got to figure where to mount that switch and that's what I'd prefer.

TR4nut
07-11-2009, 10:13 AM
Looks good, I like how you integrated it with the license plate - where'd you get the clamp arrangements for the lamps?

Got_All_4
07-11-2009, 10:47 AM
Clamps came from Moss. 408-579. I paid $38 thru Team Triumph. Local TR recycler and sells Moss 10% off.

swift6
07-12-2009, 09:32 AM
Are those far enough forward for your bonnet to still open without interference?

DNK
07-12-2009, 01:46 PM
There is a way to use them as a DRL and when the low beams are on they will turn off and back on for the brights.

Got_All_4
07-13-2009, 12:09 AM
Ya no problem opening the bonnet. I designed it with it opened so I wouldn't have that problem. I first had the lights out near the ends of the bar so it would fit into the the low spot in the bonnet when it was opened. Didn't like the driving lights here. However the badges looked great in the center. Lights work and look good where there at now. The badges so so.

When I test drove it the I pluged them into the low beam and when the dipper was pushed the driving lights went off and the brights came on. I'm sure it workes the same when pluged into the brites

swift6
07-14-2009, 04:47 PM
Ya no problem opening the bonnet. I designed it with it opened so I wouldn't have that problem.

:thumbsup:

DNK
07-14-2009, 05:32 PM
If you do that you'd bettor run them through a relay

Got_All_4
07-15-2009, 07:36 PM
If you do that you'd bettor run them through a relay

Why too much current through the switch?

Got_All_4
07-16-2009, 10:42 PM
How do you think it should be wired?

DNK
07-16-2009, 10:53 PM
Depends on How you plan on using them

Got_All_4
07-17-2009, 12:02 AM
I want to run them with the low beams. I like how they turn off when i hit the dipper switch when I go to high beams.

Or I can use a switch to operate whenever. The problem is where does the switch get mounted?