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View Full Version : TR2/3/3A TR3A Fuel Pump Refurbish



mapleaf
03-08-2009, 11:08 PM
As part of my fuel pump rebuild I would like to remove 25 years of grunge and renew the appearance of the pump body. Any advice on what to use to get the best results will be greatly appreciated. TIA

sail
03-09-2009, 08:09 AM
I just use carb cleaner for that kind of thing and call it good.

billspit
03-09-2009, 06:02 PM
If you mean the high dollar dipping type carb cleaner, I agree. I just wish I could make myself buy a can of it.

PeterK
03-09-2009, 07:51 PM
It's under $20 a can here. Comes in a gallon paint can complete with wire basket. Wear gloves, good ones. At your local FLAPS.

mapleaf
03-10-2009, 08:40 PM
Thanks guys, I must admit it's the first I've heard of 'dipping type carb cleaner'. Just wondering if it is any more effective then multiple applications of the aerosol spray cleaner.

sail
03-10-2009, 09:27 PM
A few squirts from a $4 squirt aerosol and your spouse’s toothbrush.

TR3driver
03-10-2009, 09:53 PM
Just wondering if it is any more effective then multiple applications of the aerosol spray cleaner. It varies, but some of them are much more aggressive than the typical spray. I used some stuff years ago that would clean the skin right off of your hands in just a few minutes. But I think it's illegal in CA now.

Even the spray cleaners have gotten a lot milder since they basically outlawed methylene chloride and perchloroethane.

Moseso
03-11-2009, 11:05 AM
I've always used lacquer thinner to clean carbs. It seems to do a fine job of dissolving old fuel deposits. Of course, I've always worked in wood shops where it was easy to come by -- always in stock. I don't know about CA anymore, but any hardware store around here has it.

mapleaf
03-11-2009, 09:22 PM
Well, I've got lacquer thinners and a half can of aerosol carb cleaner in the garage so I'll try both separately and check the results before I go searching for the dipping type cleaner. thanks again

rlandrum
03-12-2009, 12:43 PM
I've used the dipping type. The results were... unimpressive. I found the dremel to be one of the best cleaning tools. They make little abrasive sponge wheels (brown, black, and purple) that remove anything and leave a very nice finish.

That, plus the dremel wire wheels for the tight spots. I suspect a good stiff toothbrush and some carb cleaner would have a similar effect.

Once cleaned, wipe down with a good prep-all pre-paint cleaner. Brake cleaner works too.

On the larger items, I tend to prefer the wire wheel of a bench grinder. Difficult to manage parts get blasted in the cabinet.

Mkutz
03-14-2009, 06:00 AM
I started out with a 48 hour soak in carb cleaner. Practically no difference than when I put it in.

I then soaked in Purple Power for about 24. I buy this by the 2.5 gallon size and when degreasing something, will soak my part for a day or two. It's also an effective paint stripper too. The fuel pump came out with about 80% of the deposits off, and with a little brush and dremel action, was able to get the rest.

angelfj1
03-14-2009, 09:56 AM
Mkutz: It seems like your going through a lot of trouble. Do you have access to a blast cabinet? If you do, these pump bodies clean up real nice and the pumps are very easy to disassemble.

Don Elliott
03-14-2009, 03:57 PM
I have sandblasted my fuel pump a couple of times as Frank mentions. And also the one I carry as my spare. I also do it on other aluminium parts like the intake manifold, etc. for a quick and easy way to make them look new again.

mapleaf
03-14-2009, 09:24 PM
Sandblasting sounds like the quickest and easiest way, what media do you use?

AweMan
03-14-2009, 10:27 PM
Glass beads it will not remove the aluminum, only the grunge!

SteveTR
03-14-2009, 10:45 PM
Maple,

I am with AweMan on this one. Glass works wonders and won't harm anything.

Here in California we don't have access to great removers. I bet I have tried most.

Cheers.

Brosky
03-15-2009, 07:01 AM
If you really want to make them look good............this is over the top for most, but I was playing with ideas.

https://www.74tr6.com/fuelpump.htm

The kits from TRF were good, but lacked a new pin with clips, the mesh screens and a (EDIT) retaining cup that fits over the seal for the diaphragm shaft. I do have a new batch that were polished at Advanced Distributors and new kits from a great supplier here in NE that have screens, pins and diaphragms and bottom seals made specifically for today's gasolines, so I'll be doing a new page on that very soon. No financial interest on my part.

https://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive.htm

Mkutz
03-15-2009, 08:47 AM
No, my tool inventory hasn't extended to blasting equipment or a decent compressor. I definetly have that in mind before I start my MGA Deluxe.

TR3driver
03-15-2009, 11:52 AM
The kits from TRF were good, but lacked a new pin with clips, the mesh screens and a seal for the diaphragm shaft.That's interesting. The TR3 kit I got from them did include the screen & shaft seal (they even advertise that they've found a source for it). The original TR3 pump did not use a replaceable pivot pin with clips, so that is not included.

PS Glass beads in the blasting cabinet do make aluminum look mighty nice. I didn't bother with the fuel pump, but the clutch and brake cylinders came out like new.

Brosky
03-15-2009, 03:35 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:](they even advertise that they've found a source for it)[/QUOTE]

Randall I don't doubt you at all, but I had several discussions with Albert (Chas son) about that and at the time they were still looking for a source for the steel cups that fit over the seal, but that was about 18 months ago.

And my kits were all for a TR6, so maybe they had screens and seals for a TR3, but everything that came in the kit is shown on my web pages. And as you can see, no screen or shaft/clips.

BUT....there are two seals for the shaft, but no steel cup to replace the one that gets destroyed when you try to remove it to get at the seal.

I got the kits in last week and when my wife gets back with her digital camera, I'll take a picture of the entire package and post it.

TR3driver
03-16-2009, 02:41 PM
Randall I don't doubt you at all, but I had several discussions with Albert (Chas son) about that and at the time they were still looking for a source for the steel cups that fit over the seal, but that was about 18 months ago.The kit I got did not include a seal retainer, just the seal. You can see here (https://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR2TR3/9.php) where TRF specifically mentions the seal.

I assumed the new seal did not need a retainer, but since the old seal seemed to be in good condition, I just left it alone and did not examine the new one closely to see if it needed a retainer. In general, most modern seals have a hard outer ring incorporated so they don't need retainers.

But I've reused that retainer in the past, so it is at least possible on a TR3 pump. (Might well be different for a TR6 pump, as I've never done one of those.) As I recall, the last time I did a TR3 pump (which had to be close to 20 years ago now), I found an old brake cup to use in place of the (NLA then) seal and just tapped the old retainer back in over it.

Oddly enough, the factory spare parts catalog doesn't even list that seal &amp; retainer. It was apparently introduced somewhat after the first TR2s were produced; the TR2-3 workshop manual mentions it as helping keep oil in the crankcase during hard cornering. It also says not to remove it unless it is known to be defective.