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Tinster
09-27-2008, 08:32 PM
I need some carb mixture advice

I am trying to set the mixture on my Stromberg 175
CD2 carbs.

I made a high speed run down the expressway for 40 minutes
at mostly between 60 and 70 mph.To experiment on mixture settings.

Before the drive :
1. I purchased my 10th set of plus this morning, installed 2.
2. I cleaned up two sooty plugs and reinstalled
3. I left two sooty plugs in place.

Did a complete tune up on carbs and ignition plus --
Leaned out rear carb by 8 flats of a hex adjustment tool.
Leaned out front carb by six flats[/color]

Here's my plugs before and after about 40 minutes of high
speed driving, only two toll both stops and exit ramp on/off to Bikers Bar,

To the non-mechanic guy, my new plugs look a bit lean.
I am totally stunned the black plugs turned white????

https://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q101/TinsterTR6/blackPlugs-1.jpg

https://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q101/TinsterTR6/plugs1.jpg

https://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q101/TinsterTR6/plugs2-1.jpg

Brosky
09-27-2008, 08:44 PM
Well, you're not rich anymore. In more ways than one, I suppose.

First question, why are #1 & #5 different on the tips than the others? Are you mixing brands?

Second, but a suggestion. I'd go two flats back rich and call it a day.

Just curious, did your engine run any hotter than before during these 40 mile runs AFTER the leaning process?

poolboy
09-27-2008, 08:45 PM
Did a complete tune up on carbs and ignition plus --
Leaned out rear carb by 8 flats of a hex adjustment tool.
Leaned out front carb by six flats[/color]





Does that translate to 1 1/3 turns and 1 turn respectivly?
If the plugs were the conventional copper electrode type, I'd feel confident enough with your excellent photography to render an opinion. But I have no experience reading those kind of plugs. It will be interesting to see how they are interpreted.

TR3driver
09-27-2008, 08:55 PM
Unless you find other indications the engine is running lean, I'd leave the mixture alone and read again after 1000 miles or so. That nice tan color you see in the plug charts comes from running leaded fuel; modern fuel takes a lot longer to leave permanent deposits.

The cleanup of the sooty plugs is exactly the way it's supposed to work; the insulator is supposed to get hot enough to burn off the soot.

Tinster
09-27-2008, 09:48 PM
Well, you're not rich anymore. In more ways than one, I suppose.

First question, why are #1 & #5 different on the tips than the others? Are you mixing brands?

Second, but a suggestion. I'd go two flats back rich and call it a day.

Just curious, did your engine run any hotter than before during these 40 mile runs AFTER the leaning process?

<span style="color: #006600">Hi Paul !!

Nope, #1 and #5 are the plugs Western Auto Puerto Rico now sells
for 1969 TR6.

I will install the remaining 4 so I have a matching set.

No! And Frank A was kind enough to tell me to watch
the temp gauge. A constant 160* the entire run.
Two flats back into rich it is.

thanks all.

d</span>

Brosky
09-28-2008, 07:10 AM
Dale,

If you haven't done it yet, I'd leave it alone for two reasons.

One, no over heating, so you don't appear to be TOO lean.

Second, I agree with Randall's advice about the color and check it in a 1,000 miles.

Close hood, put in lock pins and drive................

Brosky
09-28-2008, 06:49 PM
OK Dale, it's been nearly 12 hours, so what's the car status as of this evening?

RonMacPherson
09-29-2008, 07:21 PM
What model and make plugs are you running?

I hope NGK BP6ES

toysrrus
09-30-2008, 05:26 AM
Hey Dale,

Being an "Ex" Reg. Sls. Mgr. for "NGK Spark Plugs"; You should be running one "MATCHED" set of whatever plug! This is the most "In-Expensive" thing you could do &amp; here you are playing around with some "Off-Brand" and mix-matching them.

Not the best way to tweek your performance!

I agree with Ron, (Not being Prejudice), use the "NGK BP6ES" (.025 Gap) in "ALL" cyl. &amp; or at least a comparable brand like "Bosch" or something. Autolite &amp; Champion have lost their quality control over the years.

I had purchased some Autolites &amp; found the Ceramic Element to have hair line cracks in some of them. This won`t help your cars performance &amp; you won`t even be able to see it without a scope or magnifying glass.

Moral to this story: Run whatever plugs you can get but run the same plug; In the same condition in ea. cyl.

Not Rocket Science,

Russ

PAUL161
09-30-2008, 07:38 AM
Dale, have you tried Iridium plugs yet? I put a set of Autolites in my truck and have noticed an improvement in performance, plus 1.5 mpg increase in gas mileage. When it's plug time for the "B", I'm going to try a set in it.

Tinster
09-30-2008, 08:22 AM
What model and make plugs are you running?

I hope NGK BP6ES

<span style="color: #990000">Ron-Remember where I live! I have very
few choices between brands of anything.

I've swapped out my plugs into NGK BPR6EGP .

Western Auto no longer carries the BP6ES plugs
but they list the BPR6EGP are direct substitutes
for a 1969 Triumph TR6.

Russ- I know to run a single brand across the board.
I was experimenting on getting my carb mixture correct.
Therefore I tried:

2 old Bosch - badly sooted from pre-mixture adjustment
2 old Bosch cleaned back to white
2 brand new NGK BPR6EGP

After the test drive it appears I am very close on
the carb mixture. So I'll drive awhile with all six
NGK BPR6EGP and see how it goes.

BTW: The new NGK plugs are pre-gapped with a big
warning NOT to attempt to regap them.

later gator,

d</span>

Tinster
09-30-2008, 09:45 AM
still in major creep mode for me here in PR

Brosky
09-30-2008, 07:30 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]still in major creep mode for me here in PR[/QUOTE]

Dale,

I must be missing something. What do you mean by that? Is it going slow or car trouble again?

DNK
09-30-2008, 10:40 PM
EGP
Extended gap Platinum ???

Tinster
10-01-2008, 06:49 AM
The BCF access speed. Really slow.

d

Tinster
10-01-2008, 08:00 AM
Here is a photo of one of my new plugs.
I installed a complete set of pre-gapped,
NGK BPR6EGP plugs.

This plug has about ten hours drive time on it.
I pulled this plug after a 90 mile night ride
on the expressway at 65 -70 mph fairly constant
speed, except toll booths.

This plus is AFTER I leaned my carbs out.

What can anyone tell me about my carb mixture
based upon having 6 plugs like this one.

thanks,

d

https://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q101/TinsterTR6/Lean-plug.jpg

Brosky
10-01-2008, 08:38 AM
I think that i would leave it alone and drive the 1,000 miles suggested earlier. Pulling plugs daily is not a good plan.

tdskip
10-01-2008, 08:53 AM
Dale - that looks good to me. I think Paul has the right idea!

poolboy
10-01-2008, 09:00 AM
I agree with Paul, reading plugs is ok once in a while, but each time you remove and reinstall you are compressing the sealing washer, eventually you'll just have a flat washer.
For frequent checking of a carbs mixture, it's recommended, and not just by me, to raise the air valve about 1/8 of an inch and observe the engine speed response.

Tinkerman
10-01-2008, 10:57 AM
Dale, I vote with Paul, don't pull one of my "over engineering" things.

Tinkerman

GeeBee1
10-01-2008, 12:07 PM
Dale:

Drive it like you stole it, its about time.

Tinster
10-01-2008, 12:46 PM
For frequent checking of a carbs mixture, it's recommended, and not just by me, to raise the air valve about 1/8 of an inch and observe the engine speed response.

Try as I might- I've not acquired that listening skill.

d

poolboy
10-01-2008, 04:23 PM
Dale, you get that engine to idle somewhere between 800 and 1000 and lift the air valve an eighth of an inch with a slender screwdriver without blocking the air with your hand and I guarantee you the engine speed will change.
If there is only a slight change then you are pretty darn close to having the mixture correct.
You get immediate results from your test without having to drive a 100 miles to evaluate deposits on your plugs.
Just play with it until you are able to distinguish the symptoms.
Then again, if you have the mixture right, right now, don't expect the difference to be all that great.
I mean that's the way it's done unless you have access to some kind of CO meter that you can put in the exhaust pipe.
An aid that is more visual, however, is a Vacuum Gauge connected to the intake manifold where your brake servo connects.
Maximun vacuum there gets you pretty darn close. The Vacuum gauge there will also help you find your ignition timing sweet spot by indicating maximum vacuum as you rotate the Dizzy.
If your engine is in good shape 17 to 20 in-Hg is the operating range you would be looking for for both adjustments. Try it, you'll like it.

Tinster
10-01-2008, 04:54 PM
Poolboy: you wrote:

An aid that is more visual, however, is a Vacuum Gauge connected to the intake manifold where your brake servo connects.
Maximun vacuum there gets you pretty darn close. The Vacuum gauge there will also help you find your ignition timing sweet spot by indicating maximum vacuum as you rotate the Dizzy.
If your engine is in good shape 17 to 20 in-Hg is the operating range you would be looking for for both adjustments. Try it, you'll like it.

<span style="color: #990000">Huuum? I ran that test last weekend.
I got a real constant 21 in Hg

good info to know. I thought the test was for determining vacuum leaks.

d</span>

martx-5
10-01-2008, 05:02 PM
...

<span style="color: #990000">... I thought the test was for determining vacuum leaks.

d</span>

Dale, here's an article on interpreting the readings on a vacuum gauge. (https://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm) It's incredible the amount of information you can get from such a simple instrument.

poolboy
10-01-2008, 05:52 PM
<span style="color: #990000">Huuum? I ran that test last weekend.
I got a real constant 21 in Hg

good info to know. I thought the test was for determining vacuum leaks.

d</span>

Given that, I'd say your engine is darn near if not perfectly tuned.
Not saying you won't have a condensor or rotor fail, but as far as tuning, I'd say you've found that "sweet spot".