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jjbunn
09-14-2008, 08:46 PM
I removed the damaged fender on my TR6 so I could get a better look at the damage to the driver's footwell. Here's a photo:

https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3189/2858341862_49c5e2f41f.jpg

(Bigger version here: https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3189/2858341862_db20ecbde0_o.jpg )


The footwell is caved in, as you can see. Inside, the pedals are unaffected and all work. The headlamp dip switch has suffered, though.

What are my options, repair wise?


For completeness, here's a photo of the removed fender, which I think is toast:

https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3058/2858342106_0aa69ae93c.jpg

Brosky
09-14-2008, 08:53 PM
Well, this is what that area should look like without the damage:

DNK
09-14-2008, 09:00 PM
Julian I say is it to late to report it to the insurance Co. Gonna get costly

jjbunn
09-14-2008, 10:34 PM
Julian I say is it to late to report it to the insurance Co. Gonna get costly

Hi Don,

Insurance didn't cover it. And, besides, the increase in premiums and the deductible make a claim economically not sensible in my case.

Can the footwell be hammered out, I wonder?

startech47
09-14-2008, 11:01 PM
I would think the damage could be hammered/pulled out and than you could determine whether some replacement panels/formed sheet metal are in order. Hammering/pulling the damage will minimize the replacement sheet metal needed. The affected area is behind the fender and won't need to be perfect.

tdskip
09-14-2008, 11:38 PM
I doubt you can get the sill shape back to where it should be, but as has been pointed out it is hidden. I don't thinking trying to hammer the inner fender out some will make anything worse, might be worth a shot.

Time for a new outer fender though, I'm not that skilled but getting the contour right is going to be pretty tough with that as a starting point.

Sorry to see it...]

TR6oldtimer
09-15-2008, 08:59 AM
Julian, if you can weld or braze this is not a difficult job. Otherwise, time to get some estimates.

The rocker panel (outer sill) was replaced at sometime in the past, anyway the forward portion will need to be replaced ($100), as will the forward part of the inner sill ($50). A new end cap ($4). A new bulkhead end panel ($70) and a forward foot well for ($150). Also a new splash panel kit ($30). I would also get a new floor at ($190). From these panels, I would use the new pieces where I can and cut from the others what I need to repair the deformed parts. (Or you can have some fabricated)

A decent body shop should be able to easily do the repairs with the body on frame, but will probably need to remove the brake and clutch pedal and hydraulics.

I would also have a shop look at that wing, and balance the repair cost to the cost of a replacement ($570 + freight).

Then of course comes the paint, but that is another story for another thread.

If you want to do this yourself, it's time to take a welding course and if you can one in body repair.

2wrench
09-15-2008, 11:43 AM
Och, Julian. Sorry to see this. In my humble opinion, the wing fender
looks like toast, but I'm not body man by any stretch. With such a tight
crease, it just seems replacement would be in order. Very sorry.

NickMorgan
09-15-2008, 11:56 AM
Julian,
If you want to do the job properly, take Ray's advice. You really need to let new metal in to replace those bent bits. It would not be possible to hammer the sills back into place. You may manage to do something with the inner wing and floor, but I doubt it would be invisible.
You can buy repair panels for the outer wing, which should be enough to repair that damage.
At least you have reasonably solid metal to start with, so you won't end up chasing rust all around the car.
Good luck.
Nick

DNK
09-15-2008, 03:13 PM
Julian- After you get your car on the road,get better insurance.

tosoutherncars
09-15-2008, 04:12 PM
Julian, if you can weld or braze this is not a difficult job. Otherwise, time to get some estimates.

The rocker panel (outer sill) was replaced at sometime in the past, anyway the forward portion will need to be replaced ($100), as will the forward part of the inner sill ($50). A new end cap ($4). A new bulkhead end panel ($70) and a forward foot well for ($150). Also a new splash panel kit ($30). I would also get a new floor at ($190). From these panels, I would use the new pieces where I can and cut from the others what I need to repair the deformed parts. (Or you can have some fabricated) (...) I would also have a shop look at that wing, and balance the repair cost to the cost of a replacement ($570 + freight). (...) If you want to do this yourself, it's time to take a welding course and if you can one in body repair.



Now here's an oldtimer (hey, it's in your name!) who knows his stuff... I'd say re-read that response about five times, and go from there.

If you can weld, or want to learn, it's not hard work... just long, dirty, and it can be hard to stay motivated once it's been off the road for a while. If you've got a little welding experience and the space to work inside, it's the sort of job you could expect to complete over winter.

My two cents... good luck! (P.S. - the same corner of my VW was done in, not by an accident, but by rust... see the link in my sig for the rebuild. All the parts mentioned above by TR6oldtimer were replaced, in whole or in part.)