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View Full Version : Wheel Bearing shot- Any one have advice?



PATR8
06-30-2008, 08:13 PM
Well after a trip up to Indiana PA to the Roadster Factory Party I realized I had something wrong. At first I noticed a vibration when braking. I assumed my 26 year old rotors may have needed a shaving but as I drove the hills to Indiana and I rounded a crowned bend to the right the vibrations increased and when I attempted to brake became worse. Well yesterday I had some time to jack up the front end and my fears seemed justified, I was able to wiggle the wheel. A phone call to Woody and he confirmed my fears and I now have to sets of front wheel bearing on the the way (a set being a set for both sides).

Woody of course told me how easy it is, does any one have any adivce or warnings? Thanks

Tinster
06-30-2008, 08:56 PM
PATR8-

While it is true I know almost nothing of auto mechanics**,
I used this front wheel bearing install "how to" and found
it quite handy.

https://www.scribd.com/doc/260591/wheelBearingsFinal

The front wheels spin pretty good now. If ya get in trouble,
the Experts here at BCF will help ya!

**I HAVE stayed at a Holliday Inn, from time to time.

regards,


Dale :thumbsup:

swift6
06-30-2008, 09:33 PM
It really is pretty easy.

If you keep your wedge for a long time you'll get used to changing the front wheel bearings. It's one of the failings of the wedge. The front bearings are pretty small and will wear quickly. Bigger wheels will wear them out quicker too.

They do usually show themselves getting loose via a little shimmy that you can feel in the steering wheel. I check my wheel bearings at each oil change.

Just part of the price we pay.

PATR8
06-30-2008, 10:35 PM
I must be pretty lucky with my wedge, I haved had it for over 8 years now and this is the first set of wheel bearing I have swapped out, and my 8 is a driver averaging almost 6,000 mile a year. I had thoughts of going with Ted's bigger bearings but the price difference is pretty large.

DNK
06-30-2008, 11:24 PM
The torque on the nut is pretty low.5 lbs minus 1 flat. Just tighten loosen tighten loosen while spinning the disc. Should be fine.

DrEntropy
06-30-2008, 11:54 PM
I had thoughts of going with Ted's bigger bearings but the price difference is pretty large.

And certainly NOT worth th' effort and cost! Just go with renewed standard bearings.

DougF
07-01-2008, 06:47 AM
Pack them with a good tacky grease. One of the better ones on the shelf is Lucas's red grease. It has a high melt temp.
The tackiness keeps the grease in the bearings.

tr8todd
07-01-2008, 02:12 PM
If you plan on driving your car hard, as in an occasional autoX, Ted's bearings are a great idea. If you just want to mash the pedal and go in a straight line, then don't worry about it. On the TR8 race car, a set of standard bearings are good for a couple of weekends at best. The oversized ones are good for a whole season. On my street car, I went to the SD1 struts, hubs, and bearings. Those things will never wear out. I consider the front bearings, the tiny spindles, and the puny brakes the weakest links in the car. The reason Ted's kit costs more is you have to machine the hubs to accept the larger bearings. The bearings themselves don't cost any more. It's the machine work you are paying for.

PATR8
07-02-2008, 10:19 PM
Well I got one side done, took me twice as long as it should but it was my first time and I made several Duh pauses. But OH what a difference it makes and I have only one side done so far. The side I replace did not look bad until I put the new bearing in and realized how worn the other ones were. I will replace the other tomorrow night and replace my broke engine mount, just in time for a long week end of rain.

TR3driver
07-02-2008, 11:56 PM
The side I replace did not look bad until I put the new bearing in and realized how worn the other ones were.
My rule of thumb for tapered roller bearings : If you can see any wear whatsoever, even just dull surfaces where they should be shiny; it's time to change the bearing. The surface finish is critical to the life of the bearing; once it starts to go they can fail quickly and dramatically.

This is a dead, must be replaced, bearing.

PATR8
07-04-2008, 12:14 AM
Funny thing... as I was cleaning the bearings I pulled out of the car I noticed the inner bearings were made in England and the outer was made in Germany. I guess some one replaced the outers some where along the line but all the race rings look exactly like the ones TR3driver has in the pics above. Woody was right as usual, was not difficult. I hope I got right the "pack the bearing" I assumed it would be obvious.

Woody's bearings come in a box from England but the bearings are stamped Made in the USA

JeffYoung
07-07-2008, 11:17 PM
You did take the hub off and do both the inner and outer right? Did you press new races into the hub or use the old ones? If you used the old ones, note the picture above. If you see any lack of shinyness on the race you need to change it.

Use a good high temp grease. Redline is the best if you can find/afford it. Lucas is good, as are the Valvoline and othe synth brands.

Todd is right, on the ITS race car the standard bearings run about 3-4 weekends max. Be sure to get the wheel nut TIGHT though before you start backing off. If the threads on the spindle start to go bad they can fool you -- you think the nut is tight but it is not and the nut will work it self off.

Easy job, plus it ensures that you take a look at the pads, rotors, brake lines, steering arm bushing and control arm bushing, all good things to check.

The hubs just wear out over time to and go out of round. You'll notice this when you are able to snug the wheel nut down and the hub still has play in it on the spindle.

Have fun!