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64rocksprite
06-19-2008, 01:38 PM
Hi all,
I usually spend my days over in the Spridget section..been restoring a '64 off and on for the last few years.

I'm going to look at a '74 TR-6. What are the areas to look for when hunting "uh-oh's"? Seems like rear suspension is one..from my brief glance in the forums..

What else? (Body, mechanical, electrical)

Not sure if this will fly with the 'Boss', as the Sprite is not done, but the TR-6 looks to be a driver!..maybe time to sell the F-150 if I can stand Houston without A/C!! It's so close to me, I can't resist going to look.

Appreciate any input you all have. If I get shut-down on purchasing it, I'll report on its condition if anyone else is interested in it.

Thanks

bigbadbluetr6
06-19-2008, 03:04 PM
Look for RUST RUST RUST. That should be the first thing you look for in any old car. Lift up the carpet in the interior and check the floor boards. Check the floor boards from under the car. check the sills, In the wheel wells towards the door check the like triangle looking piece and see if it is still together. poke it. not to hard or it might cave in. check and see if the doors open, close and fit correctly. see if all body panels fit properly. also check the top and top boot. if possible drive the car. make sure the mechanics work. blinker, headlights, brake lights. being a car person you probably know some of the universal things to look for. Look and see if some pieces might be missing and if so ask if they have them. if not you can probably bicker with the price a little bit. look to see if the car is undercoated or atleast has something on the bare metal b/c if not it might rust if you look at it wrong. i would check to see if the hydralics work properly brakes and clutch. see if the tranny shifts smoothly. thats all i can think of for now.

If your really serious take someone in the area club to go look at it with you that has more experience with a 6 then you do.

I love my 6. its a great road car. also you need to get your sprite done with the 1275 and 5 speed b/c my dad has one and it was a blast with the 1275 over the 948. Now it is supercharged and just that much more fun.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Eric

DougF
06-19-2008, 03:49 PM
Look at frame rails where the trailing arms bolt in for rust. Rear "H" deck in front of deck lid. All four fenders in the area of the lamps are also prone.
Negative camber in rear wheels means new springs.
When you sit in the seat, if your butt hits the floor, it needs new diaphragms.
Overdrives are always nice. Don't trust that the presence of a steering column switch means one will be in place. If there is an "LO" at the end of the serial number, it had one from the factory. The serial number should begin with CF...

Inheritr6
06-19-2008, 04:16 PM
Another problem area on the TR6ís is under and around the battery. Have the owner take the battery out and check under it for rust.

sail
06-19-2008, 04:17 PM
as a point of reference, this is one of the better ones i have seen. it's sold, that good for both of us but if you looking for a driver think of the time and money compaired to something ready to DRIVE.

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AI T&viewitem=&item=360059810524

glemon
06-19-2008, 04:25 PM
Good info so far, also the dreaded end crank end float, look at the lower pulley while someone pushes the clutch, if it moves back and forth perceptibly you probably have thrust washer issues with the motor.

tdskip
06-19-2008, 04:47 PM
Some other thoughts;

Check behind the head lights, bottom of front fenders behind the wheel arch, bottom of trunk for rust. Listen for rear differential whining and clunks. In other words, most of the standard stuff.

Here is a good link;

www.vtr.org/TR6/TR6-buying.shtml (https://www.vtr.org/TR6/TR6-buying.shtml)

64rocksprite
06-19-2008, 04:48 PM
Good stuff all. Having cut out and replaced rockers, pans and spring pockets on the Sprite, I will keep an eye out for rust.

The other suggestions from all are exactly what I was looking for: The known "oh craps" on a certain model. All of them have them..and now I know what to look for in the 6!!

Eric - don't take it wrong..Sprite is going NOWHERE!! :smile: If something goes, it'll be the gas-guzzling pick-up I own! TR-6 for an F-150? sounds like a good trade to me!

I've always like the 6..never have driven one, but the sound is unreal.. Wanted one since I was 12 or so..

I'll take some pics and let you guys know how it looks.

Thanks for all the feedback..geez, lots of help on here no matter what the brand!

64rocksprite
06-19-2008, 04:50 PM
tdskip,
Wow, perfect..you posted as I was writing my reply..another great resource..thanks!

tdskip
06-19-2008, 04:55 PM
Devin - more more bit of warning. The power of the TR6 is fairly addictive.

(I'm lucky enough to have a Bugeye, which is a total hoot but the TR6 is a whole different class of car)

64rocksprite
06-19-2008, 05:07 PM
td,
I am honestly a bit worried..that I'll become fully engaged with the 6 and start working on it and not finish the Sprite.
It will take lots of self discipline to not start making improvements until the Sprite is done!

Good problem to have tho..'hmmm which LBC to work on / drive today?'

As long as they're both running...that is! :smile:

tdskip
06-19-2008, 05:10 PM
td,
I am honestly a bit worried..that I'll become fully engaged with the 6 and start working on it and not finish the Sprite.

Ummm, well.... That is exactly what happened to me. Bugeye is in deep storage (aka out in the desert).

TR6oldtimer
06-19-2008, 06:45 PM
Buy a driver and drive it. Do not take the fenders off or go poking around a lot, or you will have a new project.

Oh, a Texas car. So long as it is not from the coastal salt air area you'll probably be....

Oops Houston, never mind.

If you are not into body work and cosmetics, and the engine runs fine, the only big expense will be the transmission and differential. The rest is relatively inexpensive old British car stuff. A hundred here and a hundred there, she will never notice it.

Keep the truck...

Why? Ask Dale...

Tomster
06-20-2008, 09:06 AM
Who got it as I see that the bid is over or was that a previous info pack

sail
06-20-2008, 11:29 AM
Who got it as I see that the bid is over or was that a previous info pack

I had it on my watch list and that is why I could still see the listing. Dangerous thing to do. Haven't been in a mall for a couple of years but I love looking at cars.

angelfj1
06-20-2008, 12:13 PM
very easy - ask Dale what he had when Amos was the Crypt Car. Then look for the opposite! :devilgrin:

toysrrus
06-22-2008, 02:49 AM
Hi Devin,

One area that has`nt been mentioned here is in the rear section. Where the fenders meet the body. There is a seam there and thats prone to big time rust problems.

"BRING A MAGNET WITH YOU"!!!

Good Luck,

Russ

TheSearcherMan
06-22-2008, 06:13 AM
What you should look for depends on what you are spending. In other words, if its like 1500 bucks, it will have problems, or, someone would have beat you to it. Now, if its over 10 grand, it will still have problems, but hopefully not as many. I think there are quite a few cars out there that you can fully restore, frame off, and get most, if not all of your money back, the TR6 is not one of them. I wouldn't expect a Texas car to have much rust, maybe, just the floorboards. Most of the replys to this thread have been from people up North, most of those cars are ate up with rust. However, the TR6 didn't rust to bad, true Southern cars usually have little rust. If under the hood is black with rust proofing, its a Northern car.