View Full Version : TR2/3/3A TR3A Rear Axle Picture

05-12-2008, 10:20 AM
I'm in need of a rear axle picture. I believe I have my backing plates in the wrong place and may need to move them down 1 hole.

The cables are at an angle. Everything works, but it just doesn't seem right.


Don Elliott
05-12-2008, 10:47 AM
Here is one from 1988 when I was doing the restoration of my 1958 TR3A - exactly like it was originally. If this is not what you need, tell me what you want. I have others.

05-12-2008, 04:48 PM
Jumpin jupiter Don! that's nice. Mine's gonna look like that sometime......

05-12-2008, 05:31 PM
Yep... mine are 1 bolt hole higher than that.

It occurs to me that the brake line would be at a pretty tight bend there, since the cylinder is right in front of the spring.

05-12-2008, 06:31 PM
There are also 3 locking plates that lock the hex nuts on each axle/hub. I can't see them on Don's chassis in the picture.

Don Elliott
05-12-2008, 08:16 PM
I never had any locking plates on mine - nor on the TR3A I finished in 2006

05-12-2008, 10:43 PM
Interesting ! I'm pretty sure they're supposed to be there ... have been on all my TRs. SPC shows them from 13046 onwards (including TR4). And I just felt TS13571L, it has em too.

05-12-2008, 11:18 PM
Oh dear, Don, you have to give back all those trophys

05-13-2008, 07:04 AM
Yep, there on mine also, course I put them there, heh


05-13-2008, 10:28 AM
The locking tabs were on my old racecar, and bent over the bolt heads, but the bolts were loose!

When I had the rear overhauled, the overhauler used lockwashers. He said he didn't trust locking tabs.

05-13-2008, 12:06 PM
The locking tabs were on my old racecar, and bent over the bolt heads, but the bolts were loose!A disadvantage of locktabs (and Loctite) : difficult to retorque to cover bolt stretch and/or locktab crush.

Don Elliott
05-13-2008, 02:12 PM
I can only guess that in the three years between taking my TR3A all apart and putting it together again, well what is it called, "a senior moment or three years?"

I have lock washers on there and they never seem to come loose.

On the one I finished in 2006, I guess I used my photos as guides. In the case with that TR3A, it was 10 years between dis-assembling it all and finishing it.

05-13-2008, 04:52 PM
See what happens when you display your intimate parts on this forum!!

You see that little clip that holds the brake line onto the rear diff cover, is there an easy way to unclip the brake pipe from it? I couldn't see a way of separating them when I wanted to replace the leaking diff gasket.

05-13-2008, 05:49 PM
I purchased new tabs to replace the rusted ones I removed. I have yet to bend them over specifically because I wasn't positive about the position of the backing plates.

I replaced almost all of the hardware, actually. There are a few studs I haven't replaced, and the lock washers and bolts on the brake calipers, and the 3.5 inch bolts on the front hubs. Aside from that, new lock washers and nuts or new nylocks are the rule. All Grade 8s.

05-13-2008, 05:56 PM
You see that little clip that holds the brake line onto the rear diff cover, is there an easy way to unclip the brake pipe from it?Been a long time ago, but ISTR that after removing all the cover bolts, I could work the pipe out of the clip by moving the cover and then pull it free without disconnecting the line.

05-13-2008, 05:59 PM
Here's a picture that has me puzzled...

This backing plate had no hardware attached to it, so it may have once been off the car...


As you can see, the backing plate is oriented with the adjuster BELOW the level of the frame. In both pictures above, the adjuster is ABOVE the level of the frame.


In this picture, the driver side is pointed straight up, which suggests it matches the passenger side.

05-13-2008, 07:04 PM
Yup, it's installed wrong. The orientation shown in Don's photo is correct.

Looks like you could use a new pinion seal and LH shock, too.

05-13-2008, 07:50 PM
Just looked in the brake section of the "How to Restore a TR3" book and it also shows that my son a I got the position one bolt off...Not too bad to change them - I think I'm getting so I can put the brake shoes and springs back on in less than 60 seconds :-)

The real pain will be rebending that %%^&(& brake line....

05-13-2008, 08:30 PM
Not too bad to change themNo doubt a big advantage of having the body off and the proper tools. I recall it being more of a pain in the neck, with the body on and only an open end wrench. Seemed like it took forever to wind those bolts out, one flat at a time.

Then I learned the hard way that TR4 rear axles are not the same as TR3 ... Duh !

05-14-2008, 09:41 AM
Here's how it looks now:


And more pics of the progress so far.


05-14-2008, 09:54 AM
I am not totally sure until I get home, but that does not look right. I think the E-brake is lower.

05-14-2008, 04:32 PM
Don's pictures are correct. The wheel cylinders should be level with the bottom surface of the springs at the back edge of the u bolt mounting plate on both sides of the car. The emergency brake rods will be parallel with the ground and not bowed. If you need to take pictures of a car you can come by my house in Chantilly or I can send you some.


05-14-2008, 04:47 PM
I am not totally sure until I get home, but that does not look right. I think the E-brake is lower.

It isn't right. I just went out in the garage and looked. The E-brake has to be lower. The e-brake lever and cyl.inlet should pretty much split the leaf spring. The inlet just below, and the lever just above. As per Don's original photo.

05-14-2008, 05:51 PM
The plates upside down or reversed if they won't go that way?

05-14-2008, 07:21 PM
Correct sides, just clocked incorrectly.

05-16-2008, 01:38 PM
Here is how mine came apart.

05-16-2008, 03:33 PM
Had to think about it ... if the backing plates were on the wrong side, the e-brake levers would point the wrong way. They don't, so the plates are on the correct sides, just clocked wrong.

05-18-2008, 01:58 PM
All fixed and brake cables are now parallel to the ground in the correct position. The cables had about an inch or so of slack after moving to the correct position so I cut off the adjustment bolt a bit on each cable so the slack is gone but the cables are not tight - hope that was OK to do. Couldn't see how the handbrake could get enough throw to activate the brakes otherwise. My cables now looks exactly like Stigs.

Here's a question - we bought a brand new handbrake cable assembly that runs from the diff to the handbrake. I've got it run through the frame and attached OK, but the cable came with a spring that was labeled "spring - cable to frame". I note from the pic above that Stigs cable bows towards the driveshaft while mine hugs the frame under the read shocks and just hangs loose between the points it goes through the frame and cable holders. I'm guessing that the spring holds the cable somewhere but can find no pics that show where it goes and the Stigs pic above doesn't show how the cable is routed or held on his car. Anyone have a clue about where that spring goes??

Don Elliott
05-18-2008, 04:41 PM
The spring is attached to a tiny "ear" which has a tiny hole in it. This is horizontally welded to the frame (somewhere on the X frame) about half way along the free or sagging area and the spring pulls the sheath for the brake cable towards the center of the TR rather than have it sag down towards the ground where the cable might get snagged on a rock during a high speed rally on a rough road.

05-18-2008, 06:05 PM
Always dangerous to argue with Don, but I think the tab is on the body rather than the frame. Wasn't sure, so I braved the spiders to take a shot of TS39781LO.