PDA

View Full Version : Gear reduction starter compared to original



tdskip
05-09-2008, 09:33 PM
The new TR didn't starting consistently, and after eliminating electrical issues it appears that the starter was simply worn out.

Thanks to everyone for their ideas on sourcing a new unit - I ended up going with BP Northwest. Nice folks.

Here is what the new one looks like compared to the original.

https://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb73/tdskip_photos/Firstdayhome5-2-08003.jpg

RonMacPherson
05-09-2008, 11:50 PM
speaking of which(gear reduction starters)..

A couple of hints. When you hook up the starter(after bolting it to the engine) make sure you do not get a flash of spark by hooking the wire to the major post.

Ideally you should disconnect the battery when working on the starter. However, the wires and clearance on the starter on a 6 gives plenty of room.

If you do get a spark when hooking up the juice(either at the starter or the battery, whichever is last to hook up) STOP!

I've seen two starters in our British Car Club members cars in the last couple of years come shorted internally.

Take off the end cover and you can see the main contact, should be installed and not touching the body. If it is touching the body, loosen the bolt and reposition it properly.

Later on down the road, after many many starts when you go to crank and this starter doesn't go to your friendly Napa store and get the Hitachi starter contact kit. Used to sell for about 16 dollars. And it can be installed easily by anyone(even you cuz, much as you disclaim mechanical ability).

tdskip
05-10-2008, 12:04 AM
Hi Ron - thanks for the tips.

I disconnected the battery, removed it from the car, locked it in a box, and dropped it off a block away until I had everything connected. <grin>

Only slight curve ball was the old wiring was spliced at some point and looked flaky so I replaced it.

The new starter seems to work OK - it really cranks the motor over.

Thanks for the Hitachi contact kit idea - good to know!

05-10-2008, 03:38 AM
The big issue installing these babies is when you have headers. They can be a real pain to install. One needs to make certain that the type of starter purchased is like the one TD shows in the above photo, with a full radius of holes for clocking the starter in any position that will make it go for your particular application, I have had to clock mine with the positive lead precariously close to the engine block, but that is the only way I could get her to go in. Another pointer is to wrap your starter with a heat shield to somewhat protect it from the heat of these headers.

DNK
05-10-2008, 12:32 PM
Bill, Part true and part false. I purchased a starter from a eBay seller who swears will fit. In fact is similar to the above one. Even with drilling new clock holes it still would not fit. I ended up getting one from Ted and it is a little smaller than the previous one I purchased. I was able to getTed's to work . So I have a never spun start for anyone with stock or non race headers.

tomshobby
05-10-2008, 12:47 PM
I had my engine on the stand when I fitted my new gear reduction starter, from Ted btw. I was able to check the fit with my ring gear before trying it. Might not have been important since it fit perfectly.

donbmw
05-10-2008, 12:51 PM
Do your self a faver before you installed the starter. The allen head bolts that hold the endplate on have been none to come loose over time. This can be a short time or even over a few years. Take them out and reinstall them with Loctite.

Don

05-10-2008, 04:19 PM
Bill, Part true and part false. I purchased a starter from a eBay seller who swears will fit. In fact is similar to the above one. Even with drilling new clock holes it still would not fit. I ended up getting one from Ted and it is a little smaller than the previous one I purchased. I was able to getTed's to work . So I have a never spun start for anyone with stock or non race headers.

Don, Ted supplied me with a high-torque starter that was designed to fit the TR250, and also supplied me with the cast aluminum bracket to make it fit my TR6. He bent over backward to accommodate me. Grumpy guy that he can be.

DNK
05-10-2008, 05:33 PM
Bill, that's why I said the 1 that Ted's sells works for our hard to fit headers. A lot don't.
The bracket is from aTR3 I believe. Did you have to do some mods to the bracket?

05-10-2008, 06:14 PM
I had to file it quite a bit on the outside. After an hour of cursing, I got it. Works great....

DNK
05-10-2008, 06:20 PM
I used a dremel tool, About 5 minutes including the sanding. :devilgrin: :jester:


So ,like I said, I have a brand new hi torque that I will let go cheap here.