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View Full Version : TR2/3/3A Help!! how do I get the liners out of a TR3 eng.?



Stig
04-28-2008, 10:06 PM
I pulled off the head. I pulled the pan. I pulled the pistons. I cannot get the liners out.....Help

4aKen
04-28-2008, 10:14 PM
Bang!

Stig
04-28-2008, 10:17 PM
I have a 5 shot .38 in my toolbox, should I put in my mouth or against my temple?

Stig
04-28-2008, 10:43 PM
I used a polysulfone drift and hammerto get the liners flush with the block casting bores. but now they're stuck and won't move.

Stig
04-28-2008, 11:07 PM
I'm waiting.....

Stig
04-28-2008, 11:12 PM
If I don't get an answer soon, I'm going to bed.

Tinkerman
04-29-2008, 03:06 AM
Did you pull the engine out of the frame? I used a bunch of Kroil and let it set for a while. Then commenced to use a big hammer and a large drift punch. How many miles on the engine? Mine was 100000 miles plus some and they were fairly well stuck. Patience was also another tool needed. I really feel that the best thing to use would be an AL billet turned to the interior diameter of the sleeve and just shy of the external diameter of the sleeve. If you know someone with a lathe that would be the best route.

BIG Hammer, by the way.

Good luck, Tinkerman

NickMorgan
04-29-2008, 07:07 AM
I used a hard steel rod and a larg hammer. I did this from underneath with the engine still in the car. Of course I was replacing the liners, so didn't care if I cracked or damaged them. They actually came out fine.

TRMark
04-29-2008, 09:10 AM
I used a hard steel rod and a larg hammer. I did this from underneath with the engine still in the car. Of course I was replacing the liners, so didn't care if I cracked or damaged them. They actually came out fine.


Same here, big hammer and steel rod. I replaced the liners.

Stig
04-29-2008, 09:46 AM
The engine is still in the car. It was rebuilt and after about 30 miles the crankcase filled with coolant. I removed the head and found the liners protruded only about .0015 to .0025 inches. Not enough for a good seal. The liners are new, I'd like to keep them, but it looks like a crapshoot. Can figure 8 gaskets be purchased in varying thicknesses?

DrEntropy
04-29-2008, 11:00 AM
This is a "home-made" liner tool for Alfa 1750's but p'raps a similar setup could be turned out for the TR liners. It allows removal without damaging the things. A piece of all-thread and a slide hammer from the top side is the method I've used for stubborn removals.

Stig
04-29-2008, 11:31 AM
Great looking tool. One of my buddies owns a machine shop...and I have a key. Headin' over there now to make a tool.

Thanks for the idea!

04-29-2008, 11:43 AM
I think you need a BFH.

DrEntropy
04-29-2008, 11:58 AM
:lol: That, too.



Great looking tool. One of my buddies owns a machine shop...and I have a key. Headin' over there now to make a tool.

Thanks for the idea!

If I've already asked, I forgot.... WHERE in Florida are ya?

Stig
04-29-2008, 12:08 PM
ORLANDO!

DrEntropy
04-29-2008, 01:53 PM
You're near aerog and hottvr then. We're over onna gulf side. Brandon.

Geo Hahn
04-29-2008, 03:07 PM
I have not done this but am just repeating what has been previously mentioned here by a reliable source...

A length of iron pipe threaded on at least one end with a brass cap threaded on the striking end may make a suitable drift.

Though certainly a purpose-made tool as pictured is more elegant.

NickMorgan
04-29-2008, 04:19 PM
Let us know how you get on. Pictures always appreciated!

TR3driver
04-29-2008, 05:01 PM
A length of iron pipe threaded on at least one end with a brass cap threaded on the striking end may make a suitable drift.Possibly that was me (tho I don't recall mentioning it here). Anyway, that's what I use when I plan to reuse the liners, and it's never failed (or damaged a liner). Even tho I now have a lathe, I probably won't bother with turning a special tool; the drift works well enough.

sp53
04-30-2008, 10:08 AM
Canít you just get a little fat girl to sit on the bumper and then put a floor jack with 4x4 on the sleeve and jack them out from the bottom?

BobSands
04-30-2008, 12:35 PM
Hey Stig,....don't want to Hijack the thread, but when watching "Top Gear" the other evening couldn't help but notice your girlfriend in the background. It was hard to get past the bikini, but I saw nothing to indicate a need to cover her face with a helmet.
Are you REALLY Martin Brundle?
Take care Bob

pace
04-30-2008, 01:01 PM
I got out my three pound sledge and a long drift and started hammering. If you are replacing the sleeves, don't worry about damaging the side. Try to loosen each side. They will come out especially using the 3lb sledge. I did this with the engine still in the car. Had to get it high enough to use the hammer.

Stig
04-30-2008, 02:14 PM
Has anyone ever tried filling the cylinder with dry ice and shrinking the thing out? And, no I'm not Martin Brundle (nice guess)....the mystery continues!

sp53
04-30-2008, 02:33 PM
That might help, but I would try jacking them out from the bottom with the fat girl first. Just turn her crank until you get a clear shot. You might try some solvent too because it sounds like they are not rust in, but the glue from the permatex or whatever was used is holding them in. I would get all the water out and put the solvent in from the top. You might have to use some strong stuff like lacquer thinner, so watch out for the paint job.

Stig
04-30-2008, 02:38 PM
I went to my buddy's machine shop to make a tool, but the machines are set up for a job he is doing. I'll have to wait a week. In the meantime I looked more carefully at the crank throws and its not good. The combination of oil, antifreeze and water wetter have turned beautifully polished crank throws into something resembling the grooves on a 45. (ancient music storage device). So on my way home I picked up a cherry picker and am now in the process of clearing some space in the spare bedroom to store car parts.

Stig
04-30-2008, 02:40 PM
No bumper

Stig
04-30-2008, 02:57 PM
Here is a pix of the offending piece.

NickMorgan
04-30-2008, 03:33 PM
Nice looking car Stig. I knew you couldn't be Martin Brundle - he works for ITV not the BBC!

DrEntropy
04-30-2008, 04:00 PM
So that's sittin' over in O-town, huh?

I'll be over on Friday afternoon. :smile:



I'm for genteel persuasion. Too easy to nick/scar the block bores the sleeves fit into. Just my penchant for trying to ~not introduce~ more problems.

This sounds to be turning into a BIG case of the "might as wells". But the car looks to deserve the proper (complete) treatment.

sp53
04-30-2008, 04:15 PM
What is a crank throw? Are you sure that it needs to come completely apart? If the motor has such short time on it, I would make sure. It is a tractor.

DrEntropy
04-30-2008, 04:56 PM
The lumps th' rods 'n mains are attached to. He's referrin' to the shiny bits where the babbetting touches.

Groovy!


*cough* *choke* *gigglesnort*

TR3driver
04-30-2008, 06:18 PM
Canít you just get a little fat girl to sit on the bumper and then put a floor jack with 4x4 on the sleeve and jack them out from the bottom? The exposed lip of the sleeve is very thin (especially if you have the 87mm liners, even more so with 89mm). It will just cut into wood, rather than forcing the sleeve through the block.

Don't have to pull the liners to remove the crank ... but as long as you're in there ...

Stig
04-30-2008, 06:51 PM
My brother came over to give me a hard time. and with a little chiding...THEY'RE OUT!!!

DrEntropy
04-30-2008, 10:01 PM
With th' mill in situ you've done remarkably well. What's th' plan for th' crank?

Stig
04-30-2008, 10:16 PM
The bearings took the brunt of the abuse. The center journals are still perfect. Number 1 and 4 show a very slight scratch. I think at this point a set of bearings from BPNW will do fine. Since I couldn't on a lathe or mill to make a tool, I drifted the liners out. The process caused a small amount of chipping at the bottom of the liners. They are .040 over and a bit thin at the bottom. It looks like I can remove 1 or 2 hundred thousandths from the bottom of the liner to clean up the damage and still be able to reuse the liners. I cannot believe that little bit of shortening would cause piston binding (l over d). Also, I removed the lifters, the cam is fine but 1 of the new lifters obviously was not hard enough, starting to mushroom. also a couple of others were not rotating. I think some of these aftermarket lifters are of dubious construction/quality.

Stig
04-30-2008, 10:19 PM
One more thing, I miked the figure 8 gasket at .016". I have several gasket sets around and all the gaskets are .016". Is there a source for some .020" figure 8's?

TR3driver
04-30-2008, 10:51 PM
The chipping is why I made a brass-tipped drift <<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif

Mordy can make fig-8 gaskets almost any thickness you want :
https://www.headgasket.com/
Not sure of the price, tho, since I opted to go a different route (adding fire rings to the head gasket). Also make sure you really need that extra .004", as too much is almost as bad as too little (oil &amp; coolant leaks).

The lifter problem is well known; the only solution seems to be to have all new lifters tested for hardness. Someone posted to another list that all the lifters they got from BPNW were hard enough, but I'd still have them tested.

Stig
04-30-2008, 11:10 PM
What about these hot-rod lifters that are shortened a drilled? Are they of better quality?

DrEntropy
05-01-2008, 06:54 AM
I'd pass.
Hap posted a lifter source here recently. Search "Rockwell tested lifters"

APT was the source.

Stig
05-01-2008, 07:21 AM
Went to APT website, they only list lifters for spits and 6's.

DrEntropy
05-01-2008, 07:47 AM
Old 'stang, too... you're a glutton fer punishment, ain't ya. :jester:

PeterK
05-01-2008, 08:07 AM
Tappets I got from britishframeandengine.com are all individually tested and with oil hole drilled $11 each.