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MadRiver
03-26-2008, 03:27 PM
Howdy gang:

As I continue my search for a TR6 for the girlfriend's 30th birthday, I had pretty much decided on a '69 to '71 car, perhaps based on my TR250-induced bias against all the anti-pollution equipment that started to appear on the later cars, my concern (based on nothing in particular) about mild tuning on the later cars, and my own personal preference against the rubber bumpers fitted to 1974-1976 cars (no judgment intended, just not something I personally like).

Am I limiting myself too much? Put another way, is there any great additional complexity to the pollution control equipment fitted to the cars, and are the cars really any materially slower after 1971?

Please don't flame me! The latest LBC I have is the 250, which remained fairly free from the smog stuff that was to come. Perhaps I'm out in left field.

Thanks!

TR6oldtimer
03-26-2008, 05:18 PM
Smog stuff is no be deal until the air pumps were installed. However, there was some de-tuning decreased compression ratio, and cam changes. So IMO you could easily go through 73 and for the normal driver, and not see a big difference over the 250. You could also build the engine up a bit as desired.

Now this is not to say pre-air pump post 73 cars are a problem, it is just you do not like the rubber bumper guards.

My two cents...

Compression ratios: pre 72 8.5, 72-76 7.75
BHP 74-76 101, 73 106, 72 104, TR250 111.

poolboy
03-26-2008, 06:31 PM
I have a 74. If you go to Moss catalog sections on "Emission Control" there are numerous illustrations of the various years and their variations.
I have removed the EGR valve and all lines that went to it w/o any noticeable affect.
I don't like the Large Black Bumper Guards, just too noticeable and "outstanding". Kind of a distraction to my eyes. If I had a front bumper on my 74 when I bought it,I probably would have removed them, but since it didn't I went a different route.
My car has 99k showing and has compression of about mid 140's on each cylinder. I know that is not compression ratio, but does affect "power".
I'm sure that the extra 10 hp that the 250 had when new would show up vs a new 74 with 101, but what is the HP on OLDER cars, both 250 and 6's, is questionable and individual to the cars/engines in question.
Just find a good one that has been cared for and has not passed thru too many hands and you'll be satisfied.

Brosky
03-26-2008, 07:37 PM
I would not get hung up over the year based on the engine compressions or pollution equipment. Just like bumper guards, it is all removable and the cars will run just as well as an earlier model.

It's not like you going from a 10 to 1 compression 1966 GTO with Tri-Power to a smogged out 8.0 to 1 1972 GTO with a really lean Quadrajet and then planning to drag race in a 1/4 mile. You want her to have a nice, reliable smooth running car and the later models can be just that for you.

As an aside, you are more likely to find a better frame and body on a later model.

68tr
03-26-2008, 08:00 PM
Hey Bill,

Why don't we just split the cost of the TR5 and you use for 1/2 the year and I will use 1/2 the year. Then you don't have to consider the TR6! (we can settle the months later!)

As to the year TR6, remember that the earliest cars are a bit lighter in weight, but the later cars have reinforced doors along with the large bumpers FWIW....

I generally prefer the earlier cars, but some of the color/trim packages in the later cars are quite nice. I think it is also easier to find a very clean (low miles) 75-76 TR6 due to their "endangered species" status back in the day. At the time it was thought that convertibles were being legislated out of existence in the US. In addition, the marketing at the time certainly played up the fact that the TR6 was and is the last of its kind. Once again FWIW....

68tr