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ichthos
02-19-2008, 10:40 PM
Hello,
Even though I have no problems driving in subfreezing weather, my wife is not quite so thrilled. Coincidentally Santa brought me a nice top for Chritmas; I guess that was my suttle hint me to get going. The frame is rusty and there is not much left of the original top. Does anyone have any suggestions for painting the frame? I had thought about powder coating it, but I do not see how it can be done without taking it apart. My next choice was to use epoxy primer with some sort of black satin paint. I will be bead blasting the top before I paint it nomatter what I use. It will probably be another ten year before I have the opportunity to do this, so I need something that will last. For those of you that have painted the top frame, what did you use that you were happy with?
Thanks, Kevin

DNK
02-19-2008, 10:43 PM
Kevin- It might be done as is (1piece) ask a PC'er guy

I'd tear it apart.Buy her a warmer coat and make sure the heat works /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif

TR674
02-19-2008, 10:48 PM
Kevin
most of the ones done here are powdercoated. I used a satin black aerosol can when I got a new top fitted to mine. I'm regretting not getting it powdercoated. I believe it can be done in one piece.
Regards
Craig

tr6_easyrider
02-20-2008, 03:55 AM
Kevin Go with the powdercoat, you be very pleased with the results. Had mine done as one piece. All you have to do is change the nuts and bolts after it's done..
Joe

vivdownunder
02-20-2008, 05:52 AM
Kevin, the next best option down from powdercoating, for a home paint job with the hood frame assembled, use POR 15. It's as hard as billy goat's knees.

Cheers,

Viv.

TFR
02-20-2008, 06:02 AM
Por 15 is the way to go. Much less expensive and just as durable. It comes in satin black.

DNK
02-20-2008, 01:23 PM
Yea but try to pull the bolts off after it is cured.

hondo402000
02-20-2008, 07:33 PM
I sand blasted mine, primed with 2 part exoxy primer and then painted it black with 2 part black epoxy, looks good to me and it should last for a long time

Hondo

Jon80spit
02-22-2008, 08:38 PM
I did the same as hondo. I took it all apart. because of rusty bolts. Took lots of pictures and made lots of drawings. It's amazing how many parts! Replaced some of the bolts and plastic bushings.

ichthos
02-23-2008, 07:15 AM
I still need more help. I took the top to the local powder coat shop. He said I did not have to the top frame apart to get it powder coated. It seems like not pulling it completely apart leaves it wide open for rust in the future at these points. There are six bolts used on the top, but the rest of the frame is put together with large rivits. I have never worked with these large rivits before.It looks like they are pounded at the ends with a hammer. VB carries these, but I am not so sure how easy it is to reinstall them. I would hate to damage the top after it was powder coated. Has anyone out there completely taken their top out before and reassembled it with the large rivits? Is there a special tool used to do this? Is it just plain foolish to try to take this apart and install new rivits? Also, was the top originally gloss or semigloss black?
Thanks, Kevin

hondo402000
02-23-2008, 08:09 AM
I think you are talking about the rivits that hold the head rail together? I am sure they had a large press to install them, my head rail was loose on the drivers side and I pounded on that rivet and could never get it tighter so I brazed the thing together. If you take it a part you might have to heat the rivit up with a torch and then pound it down

02-23-2008, 08:34 AM
The problem with welding it is you lost the flexibility of the head rail, which aids in the mechanics of the top usage. I have seen most of the vendors sell new top frames (know nothing of the quality) but none of them sell this front rail. Interesting. I had my frame crinkle-painted. Just squirt a bit of lube occasionally in the joints.

PeterK
02-23-2008, 09:17 AM
My TR4A frame is a sandalwood color as original although my 3A is/was a semi-flat to satin black.

I would suggest that you leave the rivets intact and use a thorough phosphoric acid wash and rinse at the joints after you blast.