View Full Version : Mounting the body on the frame

02-16-2008, 10:34 AM

Dropped off my rolling chassis with the body man yesterday. He is going to mount the body back on the frame whilst it is still in primer and put on all the panels etc to get the panel gaps straight. Of course, when he removed the body he didn't count the number of pads underneath each mounting point... Now the Moss kit has three pads per mounting point but also says that the kit includes more than is required. Now, my question is, how many pads are "standard"? Or how many pads should I tell him to put on initially?

Thanks for your help. Here is a photo of the rolling frame just before I put in on the trailer... Looks pretty nice IMHO...


02-16-2008, 11:00 AM
Hi Myles, looking great! it took 4 pads on mine to get everything all lined up. I don't know if there is a "standard" amount. You have to do it based on each individual frame and body.

Good luck, Tinkerman

02-16-2008, 11:02 AM
Plug/tape over those ports, Myles?

Looks good from here! Nice work.

02-16-2008, 11:08 AM
There is no standard number of pads or metal shims for use under the floors. I would start with two and the metal shim, then go from there. It will take some trial and error, as adjusting one side will affect the other. Not my favorite job.

02-16-2008, 11:19 AM
Beautiful job so far Myles - don't have an answer on the pads, but I do have questions: Powdercoat looks great - was that done by Allied?

Are you staying with wire wheels? Did you have any work done on them in Houston? I'd like to keep the set I have but I'm not sure if there is anyone local willing to work on them.


02-16-2008, 11:42 AM
Thanks for your comments. Looks like I should start with two pads and go from there.

Yes, Allied did the powder coating. They did a good job with the frame but messed up some other bits (lower a-arms for example) so the QC isn't so great. You need to be really careful making sure they don't powder coat things that shouldn't be. Then again, I did learn that Permatex gasket remover is also a gret powder coat remover. Allied also have a min order of $125. Allied will strip and powder coat a wire wheel for $75 although I haven't touched the wheels from when I got the car. I plan to put on minilites and will be keeping the wires as spares. There doesn't seem to be anyone who can work on the wheels in Houston but I do know a guy that can balance them.

And I'll make sure I get those ports covered up!


Ps. Other thing about powder coat is that it has a habit of coming off when you tighten up a bolt against it. Very annoying on things like a-arms and steering arms to the extent that paint maybe a better solution...

02-16-2008, 02:26 PM
Myles,I was just looking the Stanparts list for something else and noticed that they show 4 pads on the out-riggers. Not sure that it means anything but you could start with four and go down from there. Nice thing is to get the gaps even. Dont forget the bonnet and the rear deck cover.

02-16-2008, 03:06 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] And I'll make sure I get those ports covered up!

And on the 8th day, Man created Duct Tape.

02-17-2008, 09:17 AM
Myles, what all did you put on the engine before you dropped it in the frame?

Thanks, Tinkerman

02-17-2008, 07:41 PM
Tinkerman, Nothing other than timing cover, rocker cover and sump. Everything else is off. Engine has been painted with black engine paint from Moss.


02-17-2008, 08:08 PM
The number of pads will also affect the magic 1/4" door gaps. Adding or subtracting shims and pads will allow you to get the perfect body flex, as needed, if needed.

02-17-2008, 09:11 PM
Thanks Myles, I'm good to go then, Yea!