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Michael Oritt
12-29-2007, 04:35 PM
Engine out--See attached.

VelodromeRacer
12-29-2007, 09:29 PM
If you can make it a rear engine....perhaps you can add a new front seat? Kinda like a nice steerman navy trainer!

blkcorvair
12-30-2007, 12:15 AM
flinstones for sure.

drooartz
12-30-2007, 01:38 PM
Looks like "engine in" to me -- just add some pedals and hire a light, strong person. Think of the fuel savings... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Twosheds
12-30-2007, 03:03 PM
flinstones for sure.


Reminds me more of Peter Ustinov.

bugimike
01-01-2008, 10:24 AM
Now all you have to do is "purr" real loud!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif

Peter Ustinov, The Grand Prix of Gibraltar!!...Now there's some classic car comedy I had forgotten about!!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

You can get a taste of it from the previews at this site!!

https://www.mp3.com/albums/551664/summary.html?tag=albums;title;recent&om_act=convert&om_clk=artalb

Michael Oritt
01-06-2008, 10:08 AM
Some questions:

1. I'm going to replace my oil cooler and lines. The present OC is a Sebtrab #50616-7612. Does anyone have a source for these or recommendation for another quality brand?

2. I found a bit of bearing material (connecting rod bearing) in the sump when I disassembled the engine. Would it be wise to remove and clean the Accusump or can it simply be pressurized and flushed with oil or solvent.

Bugeye58
01-06-2008, 10:27 AM
Michael, you can disassemble the Accusump to clean it properly, or you can just blow the piston all the way back and flush it with the solvent of your chouice two or three times. I initially fill mine about half full with mineral spirits, shake vigorously, and then push the piston up to the other end. Repeat as required, and fill completely for the final rinse.
Don't forget to remove and flush all of the lines.
Do you have yours plumbed in <u>before</u> the filter?? I've got my filters before both the cooler and the Accusump.
I've been ruuning Mocal coolers for a long time, and am happy with them.

https://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/Mocal_Heavy_Duty_Oil_Coolers

Jeff

Michael Oritt
01-06-2008, 06:30 PM
Jeff--

The oil line to/from the Accusump tees off of the line which returns from the oil cooler and runs back to the oil filter and into the engine. I have a check valve installed just prior to the tee so that flow from the Accusump can feed only into the engine.

Accusump's literature suggests protecting the unit with a filter but short of installing a second tee and another check valve and line I can't figure out how to do that and I don't like the thought of all the additional plumbing.

Any thoughts?

Bugeye58
01-06-2008, 06:37 PM
Michael, my oil comes out of the engine, through the filter, then the cooler, and up to the Accusump. I've got the same check valve arrangement as you do. Running the filter before the cooler keeps junk out of both the cooler and the accumulator.
Jeff

Twosheds
01-07-2008, 01:45 PM
The oil line to/from the Accusump tees off of the line which returns from the oil cooler and runs back to the oil filter and into the engine.

If I'm reading this right, the oil to the cooler is unfiltered?

Then, if you suspect that pieces of con rod bearing are in the oil, you should clean the cooler with solvent while you are about it.

Bugeye58
01-07-2008, 05:14 PM
I would never attempt to clean a contaminated cooler. I replace them. I'd rather spend $150 for a cooler than waste
a $12,000 engine over a piece of crud that didn't get flushed out.
Personal preference, of course.
Jeff

Michael Oritt
01-07-2008, 05:31 PM
Jeff--

I Totally Agree! I have a new Setrab on order ($158.00) and sent the Accusump off to Canton Racing today for inspection and cleaning.

I understand the logic on filtering oil prior to the cooler and Accusump, but it would involve my installing a secondary filter and on the negative side that creates several more fittings and places for potential failure.

Bugeye58
01-07-2008, 05:40 PM
Michael, I have no problem flushing oil lines. I've got an electric pump that will push about 20 GPM of filtered mineral spirits through them. After about five minutes of that, I hang them to drip dry, and then chase them with lacquer thinner. I then blow them out, directing the exhaust air into a clean paper towel. If nothing dirties the towel, I figure I'm good to go.
An oil line or hose doesn't have all the little nooks and crannies for crap to hide in like a cooler does. When cleaning everything, don't forget the Accusump valve, and the check valve.
On mine, I only have about 2 feet of hose that sees unfiltered oil.
Jeff

Twosheds
01-07-2008, 07:11 PM
I would never attempt to clean a contaminated cooler. I replace them. I'd rather spend $150 for a cooler than waste
a $12,000 engine over a piece of crud that didn't get flushed out.
Personal preference, of course.
Jeff

Better yet!

I had a grad go to work for a guy who had a glider strip. His pilot towed gliders with a Pawnee. The engine blew up. My grad put an overhauled engine in and wanted to replace or at least flush the cooler, but the boss wouldn't have it. You guessed it, the overhauled engine took a dump. The pilot quit that day and my grad went with him. The boss lost quite a bit more than $12,000.

Hap Waldrop
01-08-2008, 09:00 AM
If you useing a traditional B series oiling system routing, meaning going to the cooler unfiltered, you may consider putting AN inline screen filter on the line to the cooler.
Something like this, alot of folks use them on dry sump oiling systems to protect the dry sump pump. I have a customer preparing a MGB for vintage, and plans on using the inverted stock MGB oil filter housing and I've recommended he install one of these on the oil exit line and before the oil cooler.

Michael Oritt
01-08-2008, 05:26 PM
Hap--

Great suggestion. I didn't mention in my earlier posts but I have some space constraints that would make it very difficult to install the usual free-standing cannister filter (System 1, etc) into the supply loop in a place that could be easily serviced. However the inline filter would work well for me and I'll look into ordering one tonight. Would you recommend removing and backflushing it with each oil and spin-on filter change?

On a different note, do you plan to attend the VDCA event at Kershaw SC next month? Hope so--perhaps we'll finally get to meet face to face.

WhatsThatNoise
02-08-2008, 04:24 PM
My car kinda has the same problem...

https://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f312/dlg208/Parts004.jpg

BTW...I don't trust oil coolers or anything after the filter...
I have no real basis for this aversion.
Just a feeling that the oil should be filtered immediately before entering the main gallery drilling.

A oil cooler is an expendable item & I don't get too obsessed with quality.
I just factor the replacement cost in with a rebuild.
(anyone want the one pictured?...It's only a year old.)

Michael Oritt
02-08-2008, 05:43 PM
And how is the Steve Ellis engine coming along? I met a fellow this past December at a VDCA event at Roebling Road--he had very good things to say about him.

WhatsThatNoise
02-08-2008, 07:01 PM
I'm in the next batch along with...

Basil Adams & Chuck Chance. (He races a green MkII in FProd)

Yea...Steve is a hoot to talk to...
You'd have to meet him...He's just a happy low stress kinda guy.