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2wrench
12-27-2007, 07:50 PM
Here are some before (oily) and after (pretty clean)
pictures of my transmission.

My car was built in April of '74.

The transmission was built 2-21-74.

Looks to be the factory original. C-O-O-L.

https://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u222/2wrench/P1010019-3.jpg

and then after...

https://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u222/2wrench/P1010030-2.jpg

and one more, the inside:

https://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u222/2wrench/P1010026-3.jpg

Engine degreaser; a little Island Girl, cause I ran out
of or couldn't find what I wanted to use; then found
what I really wanted to use and finished with
Marine Clean....pressure washed at 2600 pounds.

So far I'm pleased. Hope I didn't get water where it
shouldn't be.

Norton47
12-27-2007, 08:00 PM
2wrench
Looks great. As long as you did not direct the spray at the seals you are most likely ok, in regards to water getting inside.
Make sure you change the transmission front seal while you have it apart. It's behind the cap with 4 bolts.

Tinster
12-27-2007, 08:59 PM
Hey 2 !

What Norton said is important and easy. Make sure you order
the correct mounting hardware for the cover plate as well.

I couldn't tell from your photo if you have installed a fork reinforcing bolt/pin. If not, here is what you need to install. And remember, you want no threads inside the steel bar. I used greade #8

https://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q101/TinsterTR6/clutchbarmods.jpg

2wrench
12-28-2007, 12:24 AM
Dale, what does all this do? I have to drill a hole?

Maybe I need to look at the tranny and it will become more
clear.

TR3driver
12-28-2007, 12:50 AM
The taper pin that locates the fork to the shaft is a known weak spot. Adding the bolt reinforces it. Might not be absolutely necessary, but is cheap insurance IMO against having to pull the entire #@$ gearbox again just because you happened to get one of the weak pins.

Basically you assemble the fork to the shaft (being sure to get it the right way round) outside the box, snug down the taper pin, then drill a hole through both fork and shaft. Disassemble then reassemble with the gearbox. Double-check that the new bolt cannot foul on the front cover.

The #1 hole in Dale's photo is not needed unless you have to remove a broken pin.

IMO the safety wire is overkill; I used Loctite since the pin I got wasn't drilled. Grade 8 is probably overkill as well, but since I had one on hand, that's what I used too.

I've only broken one taper pin in 30 years, but I've seen lots of broken ones on other's cars ... kinda makes me wonder if this isn't mostly another side effect of those heavy "wrong" TR6 clutches. But once was plenty, so I installed the fix on all my gearboxes (except the one Herman did for me).

Norton47
12-28-2007, 01:19 AM
Hey 2
I just did this repair on a friends car, except I used a 1/4 inch roll pin. I think it's easier. I am going to do it on mine and I do it tomorrow and take photo's. It's like they say drill a 1/4 inch hole through both the pieces and then with a roll pin, once it is assembled in the trans housing you drive (tap) the roll pin home. The pin keeps it's own tension. Either of these mods makes the 2 pieces mechanical solid, thus keeping stress off the hardened square head pin. Which can loosen and shear part way or all the way through requiring drilling or cutting to get apart.

2wrench
12-28-2007, 06:11 AM
I'll be looking for your post as well, Norton.

Tinster, great pics. It's 3:09 a.m. at this
time and it is somewhat common for me to wake up
and go to the Forum till I tire out.

I will take a closer look at my tranny tommorrow.
Thanks all,

Tinster
12-28-2007, 07:36 AM
Hey 2-

The taper pin was sheared off in my TR6 when we purchased
it. The clutch was "sticky" and "lurched" into gear as a
esult. We were told that was a normal TR6 clutch. NOT!!

I never, ever want to experience the ordeal of gutting my
car interior, pulling the tranny, buying all those
expensive clutch replacement systems because of a sheared
taper pin. (BYW- it's NOT really tapered)

I installed the the 1/8 pin access hole because DPO Pedro's
broken pin was stuck inside the cross bar and the fork
could not be removed. I had to take the tranny to a garage
and have the cross bar torch cut of out the bell housing.
Then purchase two new cross bars.

I am replacing all the Pedro-ized K-mart metric Chinese
steel bolts and nuts with American made UNF #8s. I am more
than willing to pay the premium for American made steel.

keep us posted,

dale

TR3driver
12-28-2007, 08:44 AM
(BYW- it's NOT really tapered)Well, it's supposed to be; and both my originals and the replacements I bought were. It's not a real steep taper, but if you insert the pin into the shaft from either side, it only goes partway through.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I installed the the 1/8 pin access hole because DPO Pedro's broken pin was stuck inside the cross bar and the fork could not be removed. I had to take the tranny to a garage and have the cross bar torch cut of out the bell housing.[/QUOTE]Ok, I'm missing something here. The access hole is to remove the broken end of the taper pin ... so with the hole there was no reason to have the shaft cut. And it's certainly easy enough to add the hole after the pin shears (BTDT). Besides, with the reinforcement, the pin will never shear again.

2wrench
12-28-2007, 10:19 AM
In any case, I'll be looking into this. I like the
idea of prevention worth far more than cure.