View Full Version : Picture of my head after piston goes bad.

12-20-2007, 10:49 AM
Below see a picture of my head after the piston
disintegrated in my engine.


Opps, sorry wrong head. That's what the head on my
shoulders looked like after laborious and copious amounts
of time trying to look for something I may just already
have....a rebuilable engine (let's keep our fingers

Now the real photo. I point to a, well more than a
nick, more like a divot, in the underside of the head.
Didn't seem to make the machinist run for cover, but hey,
I don't claim to be a mechanic, I'm just a wannabee,
so I'm going fo it.


To all my Forum friends, may you all be blesse with
a very Merry Christmas, a Happy Holiday season and a
prosperous New Year filled with light winds and sunny
days and the sound of about 2800 rpm's aringing in your


12-20-2007, 10:55 AM
Posted the same goofy thing twice....I got what
I deserved, so I'll try again.

Also all of the same greetings applies, 'cept
the spelling of the word "blessed" should be
considered corrected. Gotta love me. Here's the


12-20-2007, 11:37 AM
As long as there are no cracks in the head, I would expect that to be easy to repair. You may need new valve seats if they got dinged but that's not a big deal for a shop to do. I don't recall seeing what you determined the initial cause of the problem to be although it looks to me like a dropped valve. If so (and I'd probably do it regardless) you might want to replace the other valves when you rebuild the head.


12-20-2007, 01:13 PM
Is that Loctite blue on your finger?


12-20-2007, 04:19 PM
I must congratulate you on the quality of the turf on your workbench /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

12-20-2007, 07:18 PM
It's amazing what a good machine shop can accomplish, so I wouldn't worry too much. Nothing a little money can't fix /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

12-20-2007, 07:59 PM
You could consider your misfortune as a great opportunity to blueprint and port your cylinder head and rebuild your block, complete with balancing all moving parts. The ding from the broken valve shouldn't be a problem for a shop that does this type of work.

When you have done the block, you might as well overhaul the carbs. Because it will be running so well, you might consider a new paint job, interior and so on - - -

12-21-2007, 12:15 AM
Actually, Roger, I just painted the thing. I really
was sooooo enjoying the drive the day she blew.
No kidding; new paint; beautiful day....70's and
cruising about 70 in the fast lane. Nothing
demanding and then..... it happened.

I was very swift to pull over and shut her down.
The engine did not overheat. Don't think it had
time to.

But, there is always an overdrive; maybe a new rear
end geared differently; interior...don't forget that
I neglected to paint the door trims; under the
bonnet and on and on and on...

Then I can go to powder coat... and

12-21-2007, 07:38 AM
Looks pretty minor to me. You could go to all the work and expense to fill the ding, but I'd be most inclined to simply dress out the high ridge around it and let it go.

12-21-2007, 08:51 AM
...is that a cast iron head?

12-21-2007, 08:52 AM
As Rogers, said you can keep going.

What was the ending line in Casablanca? I may be misquoting, but here's a try; "I think that this is going to be the beginning of a beautiful relationship" --- between you and LBC parts suppliers, that is.

I know all about that relationship.

12-21-2007, 12:59 PM
Frankly, my Dear, I don't give a.....

Quote from: Gone With The Wind, I think.

Hey, at what it would cost to pay a guy....I'll buy the

If it comes back to bite me, and I hope it doesn't,
I'll chock the costs up to experience.
I'm already happy to see just what makes this car go.

12-21-2007, 02:10 PM
What was the ending line in Casablanca?"Louie, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship."

12-21-2007, 03:19 PM
...is that a cast iron head?

I really don't know. I think so.

12-21-2007, 03:58 PM
If ya gotta grunt to pick it up, it's IRON. ...Or ya could just take a magnet to it. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

12-21-2007, 08:26 PM
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]"Louie, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship." [/QUOTE]

Thanks, Randall. I was at least close to being correct with the quote, but spot on with the supplier friendship.

12-21-2007, 08:29 PM
One year when I was hip deep in the GT6 resto, I made the top 10 of TRF's customer list. I even got a Christmas card from Charles! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Tell me all about relationships with suppliers!

12-21-2007, 09:02 PM
When I get a card from Charles, I know that I'm in too deep.

12-21-2007, 09:33 PM

12-22-2007, 10:09 PM
You have to have a POUNDING headache after THAT!;-)

12-27-2007, 12:48 AM
So, on this head, thing. Do I give the rocker
assembly to the machinist to see what he thinks
about repair/rebuild?

I've heard it is possible to buy a rebuilt rocker
assembly, but it could be expensive.

12-27-2007, 12:51 AM
If ya gotta grunt to pick it up, it's IRON. ...Or ya could just take a magnet to it. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

Can you say h-e-r-n-i-a? Yeah, it's heavy.
So, guess that it's iron.
Irony is....I really didn't know.

12-27-2007, 12:55 AM
Is that Loctite blue on your finger?


Sorry, Dale. A bit belated, but...nope. That's
not Locktite. It's PVC glue. Kids come over, run
one of these gas powered cars that does a speed, like,
I don't know, like 25mph, or something, and runs into
a sprinkler and had water going everywhere.

I have a hard time thinking about other things when
the TR is sick. Dang.

12-27-2007, 01:10 AM
Do I give the rocker
assembly to the machinist to see what he thinks
about repair/rebuild? I'd just ship it off to :

Rocker Arm Specialist
19841 Hirsch Court
Anderson, CA 96007
Tel (530) 378-1075
fax (530) 378-1177

They did a stunning job on my TR3A rocker shaft, for about what the parts would have cost me. I'm still not sure exactly how much they replaced, only the pedestals and end caps were clearly my old ones. The rockers looked brand new although I'm sure they must have just reconditioned mine (but apparently they even put a light plating of copper on them as well as refacing the tips & replacing the bushings). All of the adjusting hardware was new, as was the shaft & springs.

The only quibble I had was that they got one of the rockers back on the shaft backwards; but it was no big deal to pop the cap off and flip the rocker over.

12-27-2007, 05:22 AM
Hmmmm. Do you think that's the kind of thing that
would/could be caught by Forum if I were to post
an adequate picture, Randall?

Hate to ask, but I feel I have to: How much did it cost you? Hope you don't mind my asking.

12-27-2007, 11:12 AM
The flipped rocker was very obvious; you wouldn't need us to spot it. But I'm sure we could.

It's been a few years ago ... IIRC the charge was around $105 per shaft (I sent them two) plus shipping of around $20 for the pair. But they told me the price in advance (including return shipping) so no surprises. Of course that was for a 4-banger, a TR6 would be more.

12-28-2007, 03:17 PM
Randall: I've finally gotten the chance to follow-up
on the rocker assembly lead you gave me. I like
the looks of these guys in Anderson, CA.
I'd like to note for any other Forum members
that their web site is: https://www.rockerarms.com/Triumph.htm

Typo, Randall, but got 'em just the same. Thanks.

Now to another question: I'm considering shipping it
off right away. They will have it just after the 1st
of the year.

Would it be better to have the machine shop check out
the rocker assembly first? Is it wise to just replace
what looks bad (penny-wise, pound foolish?) Is this
something the machine shop can do for me...like, is
this common for them....to build/rebuild a rocker?

12-28-2007, 03:34 PM
Just ship it to them. It's their business, and you will have better peace of mind knowiing it was done right. They will use all the good stuff, whereas the local machine shop may just go with whatever is available to them. (Or, send it to the same place and charge you more for it.)

12-28-2007, 06:46 PM
I'd like to note for any other Forum members
that their web site is: https://www.rockerarms.com/Triumph.htm

Typo, Randall, but got 'em just the same. Thanks.Oddly enough, both links still work for me. In the past, the redirect from https://www.rockerarms.com didn't work, but they seem to have gotten it fixed now.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Would it be better to have the machine shop check out
the rocker assembly first? Is it wise to just replace
what looks bad (penny-wise, pound foolish?) [/QUOTE]Unless you think there is a good chance it's nearly new, I'd just ship it off. It's not like one rocker has moved more times than another; the wear is likely the same everywhere. And the bushings more or less wear into the shaft; so replacing one without the other will accelerate future wear.

Your machine shop likely could do the work, but I would expect the result to be rather expensive. As I said, the folks in Anderson only charged me roughly what the parts would have cost ... your machinist is going to add $60-$100/hour on top of that for however long it takes him to do all those setups on his equipment.

Edit : You can also check for wear yourself quite effectively. Wiggle the rocker tips from side to side; if you can feel any slop, they are worn enough to service (for a rebuild). Look at the tips, where you should see a shiny spot surrounded by 'as machined' metal; should be absolutely flat from side to side and smoothly curved along the axis of the rocker. If you can see or feel any wear, it's ready to service. Look at the flats on the locknuts, if they are rounded or damaged in any way, replace them too. Look at the balls on the adjusters, if there is a pip for the center of the pushrod, they are ready to replace. This ain't rocket science !

12-28-2007, 10:28 PM
Thanks, Randall. They do advertise for a TR6 I think
about $185. Probably closer to 200, time the dust
settles; but, think it would be worth it to know it's