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rlandrum
12-16-2007, 12:30 AM
It may be time to order that Bently manual. Neither of my books include any information about the removal of the dog bolt.

I need to remove this to repair or replace the crank pulley, which is cracked.

How is this done? When replaced, how many foot pounds should I torque it to?

A bently is in my future. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Oh... And in which direction does the engine rotate, as observed from the driver seat? I know I read this before, but now can't find it or remember where I read it.

bash
12-16-2007, 07:04 AM
If you mean the big bolt at the front end of the crankshaft, I just removed mine last night. I was told to use an impact wrench, but that didn't do anything for me. In the end I put a pipe wrench on the extension and used a 1 1/8 inch ring spanner on the botl, and it came free without too much hassle. I think the torque to replace is 105 lbft, but someone with a manual handy will confirm that, I am sure. I am replacing with Rick Patton's fan eliminator, which I think uses 90 lbft.

Engine rotates clockwise if you look are looking at the front, so counter clockwise from the driver's seat.

Hope that helps
Alistair

BryanC
12-16-2007, 09:07 AM
A quick zip with my impact wrench and mine came right off. I don't see a torque value in the Bentley manual but Haynes says 90-100 lb-ft.

Bryan

edit: Oops - those are for a TR6 I see in your profile you have a 3A.

12-16-2007, 09:16 AM
As I remember, getting that pulley off can be a trick. I think I bought and modified a 3-fingered cheap gear puller from NAPA and got it to fit inside the gaps in the pulley and used a set of flat washers to push against the crank face. Isn't that pulley keyed? Used a piece of pipe to drive it back on, as memory serves me. My memory gets fogging when I try and recall distasteful tasks.

Bugeye58
12-16-2007, 09:20 AM
Bill, that pulley should be a snug slip fit, and shouldn't ever have to be driven home.
Jeff

PeterK
12-16-2007, 09:29 AM
For TR3-4A use an impact wrench; if it won't budge, tighten it with the impact for a SECOND, then try to back it off. Repeat. Use a good 1/2" impact, cheapies don't have the torque.

You can separate the pulley 1/2s by removing the 6 1/4" bolts but MARK THE ORIENTATION of the pulley halfs in relation to the hub as there is a hole drilled in one side of the pulley for timing. The center hub should come off the crank with a little penetrant and puller if it's stuck. It is keyed and the key might be a little rusty from sitting.


If you are going this far be sure to continue and remove the timing chain cover and replace the chain and tensioner while you're in there.

12-16-2007, 11:27 AM
Bill, that pulley should be a snug slip fit, and shouldn't ever have to be driven home.
Jeff

Again, I cannot remember what I had for breakfast.

Bugeye58
12-16-2007, 11:31 AM
Again, I cannot remember what I had for breakfast.

Andouille? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Jeff

12-16-2007, 01:30 PM
Again, I cannot remember what I had for breakfast.

Andouille? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Jeff


I think I may have had that yesterday, cut into tiny bits and browned then scrambled into some nice fresh yard eggs.

Almost as good as grillards and grits!

Bugeye58
12-16-2007, 01:36 PM
I agree with all of the above!
Jeff

martx-5
12-16-2007, 01:44 PM
Almost as good as grillards and grits!

OK, I know what grits are, but dem der grillards need sum 'spainin' to this New Yawka.

AltaKnight
12-16-2007, 02:13 PM
Almost as good as grillards and grits!

OK, I know what grits are, but dem der grillards need sum 'spainin' to this New Yawka.

Might be deep fried road kill?

TRDejaVu
12-16-2007, 05:23 PM
I see from another thread of yours that you have the oil pan removed. When I needed to do the same thing, I just put a block of wood in place to stop the crank from turning. I then applied an even load to the bolt (not shock load) and it came loose really nice. Did the same putting it back together, with no issues.

rlandrum
12-16-2007, 05:42 PM
Haha. It's supposed to be hex, I take it. It's rounded over quite badly then. And painted, I'm guessing, in delicious lead based paint.

This is going to be fun. I'll see if I can hammer on something close to 1 1/8th socket to see if I can get it moving. After looking at it last night, I assumed it required some sort of special adapter to fit into the dog ears to remove; that's how rounded over it is.

Adrio
12-16-2007, 05:50 PM
Mine was a pain to get off. That engine had sat 20 years or more with no attention while sitting in a car in a hedge. Anyhow, I got it off with an impact wrench but it took several minutes of 'impacting' over a few sessions before it coma off. Whatever you get on to that bolt make sure you have a good purchase and it will take some torque to remove it. Patience is all it needed in the end for me.

12-16-2007, 06:19 PM
Almost as good as grillards and grits!

OK, I know what grits are, but dem der grillards need sum 'spainin' to this New Yawka.

Might be deep fried road kill?

Grillards is marinated, thin sliced eye-of-round (beef) cooked in a wine sauce and served with grits. Heaven.

If you find a cow on the road, so much the better.

TR3driver
12-17-2007, 01:04 AM
It is supposed to be somewhat rounded, but a 1-1/8" socket should slip right on. I'd suggest a 6-point ...
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94022

rlandrum
12-17-2007, 01:34 PM
I got it off last night. I put the 1-1/8th on and it spun off first try. I got lucky. Only bad part was I had to by $80 worth of airline to run from the garage to the basement.

Now I'm stuck with the fan extension. I'll take the gear puller to it tonight to see it'll budge. I also have a slide hammer I could try...

Is it in fact keyed? I got somewhat mixed replies above...

I'll mark it's position, just to be safe.

TR3driver
12-17-2007, 02:07 PM
The fan extension is bolted to the hub, which in turn is keyed to the shaft. However, note that the timing mark is on one of the pulley halves, and they are not keyed, so can be assembled to the hub in the wrong position. The timing mark goes opposite the keyway (as mentioned in the shop manual).

It does sometimes take some persuasion to slide it off; which is complicated by lack of anything for the puller to bear against. I've found that usually, some determined tapping with a brass faced hammer around the backside of the fan flange will coax it off. But in an extreme case, you may need to provide something for a puller screw to bear against.

Since mine is currently mounted with Loctite, it falls into the second category ... I found a long bolt that would engage the crank threads without coming up against the hub/extension and used a "harmonic damper" puller to get mine off last time. The original bolt doesn't work so good because of the pilot hole (& dog teeth) built into the head.

rlandrum
12-17-2007, 02:25 PM
I've got the fan extension bolts off, but it just wouldn't release from the hub... Even with the very mild persuasion of my BFH (2lb sledge).

Do you recall the size and threading of that dog bolt? As I recall, it was fine threading, but not sure if it's 1/2 or perhaps a little larger.

TR3driver
12-17-2007, 02:44 PM
Definitely larger than 1/2" ... 5/8" NF is what seems to stick in my head, but I could be mistaken. I can check tonight but not until after 9 PM or so.

martx-5
12-17-2007, 04:22 PM
I just measured mine, it's 5/8"-18... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

12-17-2007, 06:05 PM
The fan extension is bolted to the hub, which in turn is keyed to the shaft. However, note that the timing mark is on one of the pulley halves, and they are not keyed, so can be assembled to the hub in the wrong position. The timing mark goes opposite the keyway (as mentioned in the shop manual).

It does sometimes take some persuasion to slide it off; which is complicated by lack of anything for the puller to bear against. I've found that usually, some determined tapping with a brass faced hammer around the backside of the fan flange will coax it off. But in an extreme case, you may need to provide something for a puller screw to bear against.

Since mine is currently mounted with Loctite, it falls into the second category ... I found a long bolt that would engage the crank threads without coming up against the hub/extension and used a "harmonic damper" puller to get mine off last time. The original bolt doesn't work so good because of the pilot hole (& dog teeth) built into the head.

Exactly what I said, buy a cheap three-prong gear puller and try reversing the prongs and so a bit of custom grinding. You can engage the outer wheel part of the pulley with some ingenuity.

TR3driver
12-17-2007, 06:34 PM
You can engage the outer wheel part of the pulley with some ingenuity. Problem with that is, on a TR2-4, the outer part of the pulley is only sheet metal. It WILL bend if you try to pull against it, and they are practically impossible to get to run true once they are bent.

Using a balancer (or steering wheel) puller and bolts into the holes in either the hub or the fan extension is far safer, IMO.

rlandrum
12-17-2007, 11:30 PM
I got the hub off.

I used a 1/2 inch bolt that was 8 inches long. It fit right into the 5/8th inch hole in the crank without touching the threads. Then I used a two jaw puller to grab the lip of the fan extension.

It came off way too easy.

Once off, I spent a few minutes removing the pulley from the hub. It was on there pretty good. Once off, I realized that it was A TWO PIECE PULLEY! It's not cracked, although that's how the several layers of paint made it look.

It's rusted pretty badly, and bent slightly too, so I think a replacement is in my future.

Victoria british lists the part number as 18-322, but it says "Crankshaft Pulley - Front Half". Does that mean it's just one half of the pulley? Why sell only one half? And why can't I find the "Back Half"?

Still, I think I know what my next big purchase is going to be... Blasting Cabinet. That would make these pieces look a lot nicer. I'd also feel a lot better about installing clean, freshly painted, parts, rather than the rusted, flakey ones I'm installing in haste.

TR3driver
12-18-2007, 02:35 AM
Victoria british lists the part number as 18-322, but it says "Crankshaft Pulley - Front Half". Does that mean it's just one half of the pulley?Most likely.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Why sell only one half?[/QUOTE]Why not ?<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] And why can't I find the "Back Half"?[/QUOTE]TRF has both halves listed, or a kit with both halves for slightly less money.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Still, I think I know what my next big purchase is going to be... Blasting Cabinet.[/QUOTE]Don't forget, you'll need a huge air compressor to power it.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I'd also feel a lot better about installing clean, freshly painted, parts, rather than the rusted, flakey ones I'm installing in haste. [/QUOTE]It's a long, slippery slope ...

TR4nut
12-18-2007, 07:57 AM
I'd also feel a lot better about installing clean, freshly painted, parts, rather than the rusted, flakey ones I'm installing in haste. It's a long, slippery slope ...

I agree! What happened to those earlier thoughts about driving a car with a certain patina? Be careful - if you scrape off all the patina you might wind up with a show car!

Randy

PeterK
12-18-2007, 08:43 AM
Every once in a while, a part I buy from Victoria British is actually NOS. I bought a steering arm where only one side was listed and was quite pleased to find this out.

So maybe, "outer half only" is because it's the real deal NOS and not a Taiwanese repro. But also maybe it's all they have.

I have a tptools.com blast cabinet and love it. Buy the biggest that you can afford but don't forget that you'll also need a healthy compressor to run it. I have a 60gallon rated @13.3 scfm @ 90 psi 12k hours 100%duty cycle - it runs while I blast a lot but keeps up with the blaster OK.

rlandrum
12-18-2007, 11:21 AM
I have a Craftsman 80 gallon oil fed compressor. Not quite the IR that I wanted, but close enough.

I've looked on TRF, and cannot find the pulley listed anywhere. I must not know the secret to finding parts there. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

Twosheds
12-18-2007, 11:28 AM
Moss has 'em, and you can buy the halves individually.

TR3driver
12-18-2007, 04:02 PM
That's weird ... I'd swear I posted a reply from home but it's not here. Basil, did you kill my post ?


I've looked on TRF, and cannot find the pulley listed anywhere. I must not know the secret to finding parts there. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif The main secret is having a copy of the factory Spare Parts Catalogue. However in this case, I just went to the TRF search page at
https://secure.zeni.net/trf/
selected "Limit to: TR3" and entered "pulley" in the search field on the right. That pulls up a short list of pulleys (not too many of them on a TR3), which includes the entries :
RFK101 T24 PULLEY KIT,CRANK CUR E 0 $34.95
110023 T24 PULLEY,HALF CUR E 0 $23.95
107252 T24 PULLEY,FRONT HALF CUR E 0 $13.95

Then a quick peek at
Revington TR TR2-3 SPC Plate B (https://www.revingtontr.com/shop/Catalogue_Frame.asp?a=2&mscssid=5S0UC70G2DLA9PW7GDGUXN35563L018A&SiteLanguage=eng&CarType=TR3&PageType=home&PlateID=15&PlateTitle=Catalogue+Page+TR3+%2D+B+%28ENGINE%3A+C RANK%2C+PISTONS%2C+CONNECTING+RODS+AND+FLYWHEEL%2E %29&PlateImage=B%2Ejpg) confirms the two factory numbers.

(I have the complete SPC copied to my hard drive from Revington's website.)

rlandrum
12-18-2007, 04:36 PM
Yep. I had been "looking" through the online catalog, which was my mistake. I finally figured out that I wanted to search the parts database instead. Made a big difference finding the parts I needed.

So far, I've narrowed my list down to 3 must haves, and one of them I'm hoping the PO comes through on...

Master Cylinder (PO says he has it)
Windshield
Tires

All that thanks to Twosheds, who not only has every part I've needed, is local (within 2 hours).

That and a handful of missing bulbs for the lights, and I think I might be able to fire this thing up sometime in January. But I may be optimistic.

TR3driver
12-18-2007, 04:46 PM
That and a handful of missing bulbs for the lightsAll the important bulbs are available at your local FLAPS; only the instrument bulbs are a little harder to find, and they are readily available from any LBC vendor. My FLAPS was able to order a box for me.
https://www.memotronics.com/product?pid=416

BTW, 2357 bulbs will fit the stop/tail lamps and have somewhat brighter brake filaments (at the expense of shorter life) than the more common 1157 bulbs. They will also work in the front turn/marker lights.