View Full Version : A+ head on an A series engine?

07-23-2007, 08:10 AM
The overheating saga continues. We cleaned out the coolant passages and all that, but after hot tanking and magnafluxing the head, we find out that it's cracked. I found a place I can get a reconditioned head for cheap, problem is, it's casting # is CAM4180, which is an A+ head (my engine is A). Does that matter? Is there a difference and if so, will it still work on my block?


07-23-2007, 11:00 AM
There should be no issue with using the A+ head on the A-series engine. I don't recognize the casting number but as an example, my 1275 A-series engine is currently fitted with a later A+ series 12G940 head.

Sorry about all this. You really have had some bad turns of luck with this.

So, how did the flushing of the block turn out? Do things look more 'open'? What did you end up doing?

07-23-2007, 11:42 AM
I don't really mind. The cost has been the down side, but I'm learning a ton!

I bought a rust remover chemical and ran it through a couple times letting it sit for a while each, running water through and brushing it out in between. It opened up a ton and the water flow is much better. Thank you a million times for your advice on that!

I got info from another friend of mine that the A+ head will work fine and $250 for a reconditioned head seems like a good deal. A+ heads were unleaded to begin with, right? If that's the case, I may have some redline lead additive up for grabs ;-)

As a side note, my boyfriend has decided to get a spridget, so I'm sure he's going to start haunting me on BCF soon...

07-23-2007, 01:14 PM
Not all A+ heads were lead-free. When you get the head look particularly at the exhaust valve seats. If you see a contrasting color metal ring in the bottom of the combustion chamber under the valve, you have a lead-free head. I don't know when this change was made in the U.K.

I couldn't find a picture in the time I had available, but take a look at this link to Classic Motorsports:
Half way down the page are some pictures and discussion of hardened valve seats in a Volvo head.

07-23-2007, 02:24 PM
Dion of djminis called me and said that the heater port wasn't the same on the A+ that he has and that I shouldn't use it. He does, however, have an A series that will be coming to him shortly that has been converted to unleaded and all that good stuff.

After the head has been replaced and we've replaced the whole cooling system and every piece of rubber, replaced the spark plugs, cleaned out the block's coolant passages, tuned it up... she better work for a while!

Of course, my boyfriend showed up with a surprise: he started converting some of the pieces to have her be fuel injected. He even has a megasquirt system all ready. So, she won't last for long without us messing with her.

I finally understand why my boyfriend never has a working car: "If it's not broke, modify it!"

07-23-2007, 04:14 PM
I'm not familiar with the heater taps being different on A+ engines. I'll have to look into that. I know the heater taps are positioned differently on the heads for small- vs. large-bore engines.

My suggestion is to get it running well with the new head, cooling system, and its stock carb for a while before changing to the MegaSquirt. When you do experiment with this, make sure all your changes are reversible (just in case).

I believe the MegaSquirt discussion surfaces frequently on the Spridget side of this forum so you may want to search for relevant topics about it as you and your boyfriend investigate fuel injection.

07-25-2007, 10:55 PM
One thought I had while I was driving my Mini and keeping an eye on the temp gauge - given the state of the cooling system in your engine, you most likely have a similar state of affairs in your oiling system. It probably is all sludged up, etc. with overheated oil, etc. Running a can or two of engine flush - for the oil system NOT for the radiator -will do wonders for cleaning out the oil buildup. I once had a car that ran hot - 210+ - I dumped a can of engine flush in and 20 minutes later it was running at 180. This worked for me, and I will most likely do it for my Mini in the near future just because I don't know how well it was cared for before I brought it home.

Chicago traffic offers LOTS of time to sit and ponder! LoL

07-26-2007, 02:03 PM
ooh, good call. thanks, I'll do that.


09-29-2007, 05:07 AM
the heater port can be drilled for the earlier heater take off. the cam 4180 should be unleaded head. it is a A+998 head and is a good choice for a replacement. you might want to check the combustion chamber size to make sure you do not affect compression ratios.
email me at the shop and I can tell you what your original head has and what the stock CAM4180 has

good luck