PDA

View Full Version : hardened valve seats



jackag91
05-25-2007, 10:55 AM
How much should I except to pay to have my old valve seats removed, a 3 angle cut and new hardened valve seats put in?

RonMacPherson
05-25-2007, 12:19 PM
Depends on the going "labor rate" I had mine done a couple of years ago and it was around 250, course that's hawaii and not Texas.

Geo Hahn
05-25-2007, 12:42 PM
I had mine done when the head was off -- but I was getting new guides pressed in, new valves & springs all around, the whole thing boiled out & magnafluxed, etc. so I can't say how much extra it was for the seats -- but it seems it was pretty small change compared to the overall total of about $300.

Don Elliott
05-25-2007, 01:06 PM
Make sure that you pick an expert. I had 4 steel inserts put in for the exhaust valves in the cast iron head of my TR3A about 7 years ago. I friend had his done by someone else and he had an insert drop.

Adrio
05-25-2007, 02:29 PM
the rates mentioned are in line with what I payed. About four years ago I had the hardened seats put in, new guides , and four new valves. I total cost (I removed and installed the head from/back into the car) was near $450 with tax.

tomshobby
05-25-2007, 02:36 PM
Might be worth while talking to Ted Schumacher at TSI first. 419/384-3022

After talking with him for a few minutes I decided to not do it.

Geo Hahn
05-25-2007, 04:12 PM
Found my receipt (June 05)...

The seats (parts) were $6 apiece, installation was $8 each.

PS - This was at what is generally regarded as the best machine shop in Tucson.

StupidHippie
05-25-2007, 06:15 PM
Tom...can you elaborate a little without putting Ted on the spot?

Rob

tomshobby
05-25-2007, 07:20 PM
Hi Rob,

I can do that. I was pretty hot to replace the seats. In my conversation with Ted he explained that the seats, at least in the later TR6 are hardened. He went on to explain that even though the replacement would be harder that he has not seen a wear problem with the original seats in the hundreds of engines he has rebuilt. He said he has done wear measurements and it was normal. As long as the seats are in good condition leave them. He said if anything replace the exhaust valves with stainless ones.

I was going to install the seats and use the early valves which are larger. In the end I figured that cutting out perfectly good seats and installing seats with a potential falling out problem was not worth it. Besides I had done a valve job shortly after I purchased my car because of an intake valve problem and the valves and seats still looked great. As close as I watch my car's condition I can always do the seats later if needed. If needed being the determining factor.

StupidHippie
05-25-2007, 08:10 PM
Thanks for the quick response Tom! Sounds like good info from both you and Ted. It's much appreciated...Rob

Brosky
05-25-2007, 09:21 PM
Thanks for the feedback Tom. I'm still waiting for a report on my "project head" to determine what I'll be doing.

Got_All_4
05-25-2007, 09:50 PM
Rob

If price is an issue you only have to do the exhaust valves. That's where you need the protection from the heat. Also I was talked out of a 3 angle valve grind for a street car. No noticeable performance increase and more problems sooner down the road because of the less surface area to seal the valve. If you are doing a complete engine rebuild on an early head then do the seats. other wise I was told to leave alone because after all the years of running lead gasoline in the motor that there is plenty of lubrication on the seats and will not burn off in our lifetime of driving. If you do a grind you will grind off that lead deposite protection and should change the seats. This info came from a lot of LBC engine rebuilders including Ted and hours of resherch on the net. Good luck! Larry