View Full Version : I hate leaks!

05-23-2007, 08:06 AM
Any suggestions for the best way to seal valve cover.

I tryed form-a-gasket NG!, silicone NG!, I tryed Indian head shellac NG! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nopity.gif

I'm using cork gaskets presently, should I change to a butyl gasket.

I hate having this thing constanly leak oil all over my engine!

05-23-2007, 08:13 AM
Wahtever you do to as far as a gasket goes do be sure that the cover is flat...you may have to straighten it with a wooden block or some similar piece. That is usually enough to prevent a leak regardless of the type of gasket.

Also check your PCV valve for proper operation to prevent crankcase prsessure from pushing oil out...

05-23-2007, 08:49 AM
I got tired of the same old thing and am going to install a silicone gasket from J M Wagner. I is supposed to last a long time and not have to be constantly replaced. I received my gasket a couple of weeks ago and will be installing it when my engine is back from the shop, which should be yet this week.


05-23-2007, 09:07 AM
I've had good success with The Right Stuff from Permatex.

05-23-2007, 09:26 AM
Welcome to our world,

won't you come on in?

Wasn't that an Eddie Arnold song from years ago?

05-23-2007, 09:42 AM
Well Kod-

You know I have almost zilch auto knowledge so I defer
to those more knowledgeable and expert than I.

Rememeber back when I screwed up the dizzy and the timing
and had to pull the valve cover and find TDC and then set
the valves?

I was clueless how to re-install the cover. TRBill, being
the expert he is- instructed me to purchase two(2) cork
gaskets, a can of permatex and a bag of wire spring clothes
washline clips. (The extra Gasket was for a screw up on my
part. )

As per Bill, I pre-installed the cork gasket onto the valve
cover itself with heavy coating of Permatex. I held the
cork gasket in place with clothes pins set 3" O.C. I let
it dry 24 hours.

The next day, a decent coating of Permatex on a very clean,
shiny prepared head surface, I set the valve cover and
tighten the securement nuts. But not TOO tight or you will
warp the cover shape and have oil leaks.

The Crypt Car has a gazillion things wrong with it. A
leaking valve cover gasket in NOT on the list.

Try it Bill's method- worked for me.

d /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

05-23-2007, 09:51 AM
Welcome to our world,

won't you come on in?

Wasn't that an Eddie Arnold song from years ago?

Seems like I've been in your world for some time now.


Seems like Ive tryed everything people have suggested, with only bad results.

Has anyone tryed Hylomar?

Ok I'm gunna break down a try a Wagner silicon gasket, a bit pricey but if it works it may be worth it!

05-23-2007, 10:42 AM
Here is a tip for using cork gaskets.
Soak em in very hot water {you will have to weight em down to get em to stay submerged}. Instal em wet {NO glues } Don`t overtighten em. Use the specified torque.
This is a trick my Dad taught me years ago. {before they made any kind of rubber gaskets} He was a career diesel mechanic, and it is said by many "One of the best".
As I remember the "soaking" time was, Until you could submerge your hand and hold it in the water without discomfort.
We used to use the bathtub and draw strictly hot water {Hot enough it would burn you if you stuck your hands in it}

I knew him well enough to know what a prefectionist he was.

05-23-2007, 10:51 AM
The Wagner silicone gasket is working fine for me. Had one on my TR250 for about 3 years now. No leaks. And the beauty of the silicone gasket is that you can reuse it. The tappet cover just pops off when you need it to, and you don't have to spend half an hour scraping all the bits of cork gasket off the head and cover. Briliant!


05-23-2007, 10:56 AM
Is your valve cover warped at all?

05-23-2007, 10:56 AM
Do you use any sealant with the silicone gasket?

05-23-2007, 11:05 AM
A couple of the replies mention the proper torque. I don't have my manuals here, but I can tell you the correct torque value is quite low. Too much torque will quickly distort the valve cover making it difficult to get a proper seal. If the top of your cover is pushed in from over torquing you may want to take a little time to straighten the cover. Some light tapping with a hammer and dolly will do the job. I didn't have any official body hammers and dollies when I straighten mine. You probably have something in your toolbox that will do the job. Don't try to bang it out with one hit. Numerous small taps will do the job without stretching the metal.
After doing this I painted the cover, reinstalled using the old cork gasket and have not had any leaks. Even though I was trying to be careful I still tightened the back nut a little too tight. But not enough to cause a leak.

05-23-2007, 11:11 AM
How would you know it was a LBC if it did not leak? How would you find where you park it regularly? I have concerns if you fix all the leaks that it may be confused with a Japanese car or you may incur the wrath of Lucas and something big may break...

05-23-2007, 11:58 AM
Kodanja- The sili gasket only works on stock cover. Do you still run the stock?

05-23-2007, 12:10 PM
Do you use any sealant with the silicone gasket?

Yes. It comes supplied with a tube of black silicone sealant, that you use only between the gasket and the cover. This then holds the gasket in place on the cover so you can reuse it. There is no sealant between the gasket and the head.


05-23-2007, 12:57 PM
If you do not use the silicone. I recommend you find someone who sells Fel-Pro gaskets. They may have to order them from their parts jobber/warehouse.

The fel-pro is thicker, better made and lasts longer.

05-23-2007, 01:17 PM
I guess the Wagner silicon gasket wont work for me since I'm running an aftermarket aluminum cover.


05-23-2007, 01:27 PM
Ditto the comments about Justin's gasket.

For cork gaskets, I like to 'glue' the gasket to the valve cover with RTV or gasket shellac, then use Hylomar between the gasket & the cylinder head.

Of course, as mentioned, make sure beforehand that both surfaces are clean, flat and smooth. Don't be tempted to overtorque the cover either, as it will only distort and make the problem worse.

And make sure your crankcase vent system is open, without so much as a kinked hose. The Triumph "PCV" systems were marginal anyway, especially if your rings are a bit tired. On one friend's TR6, we reduced the leaks significantly by converting back to a "road draft" system, with just a length of heater hose from the rocker cover fitting down to the road.

05-23-2007, 01:48 PM
I just installed one of these on my 3 with an after market cover:


they suggested using permatex on the head side so that the gasket stays in place when removing the cover. Worked great. Too bad they don't list for the 6 yet.

05-23-2007, 02:27 PM
Ed, thanks for posting roadstergasket link. Their price seems much more reasonable than the other silicone gasket...hope they make one for the tr6 soon!

05-23-2007, 04:18 PM
For years, I've always used the cork gaskets on the TRactor motors without any leakage. I glue (use you favorite) the gasket onto the valve cover, and then liberaly apply thick wheel bearing grease onto the bottom side of the gasket that mates to the head. Never had an appreciable leak, and the cover can be taken off without screwing up the gasket. Just apply some more grease when re-installing.

05-23-2007, 04:48 PM
Art's showing his age. That's an old time mechanic's trick!

And, it works!

This is how I glue mine, but I still use the Indian Head on both sides.

https://www.74tr6.com/images/valvecover 002 (Custom).jpg

05-23-2007, 05:27 PM

That is another great "old timers" trick that worked very well on the cork gaskets of yesteryear.

I'm not sure if the composition of todays gaskets would react the same.

I also agree about using Fel-Pro if possible. They always made great (well fitting) gaskets.

Now I'm showing my age again. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/pukeface.gif

05-23-2007, 08:00 PM
Like Art, I glue the cork gasket to the cover and only smear a little grease on the head side of the gasket. I do this to both the TR3 and the TR8. Both TRs have aluminum covers. No leaks.

05-23-2007, 08:09 PM
I would be curious as to why it wouldn't I have same type of cover on my driver and use the same Felpro gasket. Should work on the silicone, I presume it is made to fit a stock cover, so should work.

05-23-2007, 08:19 PM
FWIW, the Wagner silicone gasket has never leaked, and is easy to remove & reinstall, when needed. It's pricey, but worth it. Bob H.

05-24-2007, 05:03 AM

we hope to have the TR6 gaskets in the fourth quarter this year. We have one new gasket release in front of it. Being a small business we have to wait until we sell enough of our present gaskets to tool the next batch.


05-24-2007, 09:00 PM
I have a new gasket and valve cover to install on my 6....what kind of glue are you using to attach the gasket to the cover?


05-24-2007, 09:23 PM
I use the red Indian Head Shellac, top and bottom and clamp mine as shown in the picture above. Do this the night before or early morning before you go to work to give it all time to cure properly. At least 8 hours and you'll never have a leak.

Then give the top coat an hour or two to get tacky Before you install the cover.

That advice for any method of gluing that you should choose to go with.

05-25-2007, 08:05 AM
I ended up ordering another aluminum valve cover, The one I have is slightly warped.

In the meantime I reinstalled the original steel cover, NO LEAKS AT ALL!

The only thing is the PO had the cover tightened up so tight that it bent the top of the valve cover in some, so it looks like sh@#%..

I hope when the new Aluminum cover comes in, it's a better fit.

05-25-2007, 04:04 PM
Bill, for what you pay for an aluminum cover, you could have yours chrome plated and it will look great in your engine compartment.

05-25-2007, 05:54 PM
While we are here... anyone know of a company making a valve cover for a '76? The big three never seem to carry them.


05-25-2007, 08:06 PM
I have an original cover on it's way to New Mexico to be chromed as we speak.

that may take 8-10 weeks before I get it back.

In the meantime how's this look?
(No Leaks!!!) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif

Thanx everyone for your advice on making a good seal! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thankyousign.gif


05-25-2007, 09:17 PM
Getting all dolled up for next Sunday, I see.......

When did you sneak that painted dipstick in on me?

05-25-2007, 09:26 PM
When did you sneak that painted dipstick in on me?

I'm not that kinda boy Paul. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thirsty.gif

Now that you mention it
I really should have sent the Dipstick to be chromed.

05-25-2007, 09:35 PM
I asked a few months ago when I had the valve cover done and $75 was a bit much for a dipstick. So I bought a small can of Testor's Yellow hobby paint and the rest is history.

Speaking of leaks, I found new puddle of perfectly clean oil in the middle of my garage floor. It seems that the O/D cover plate has developed a leak. Great! Just when I have to meet you guys in CT next week.

So I call TRF and order new gaskets and filters while I can still get them.

Plus it was a good time to sneak in the new Tripod halogen headlamps that Charles has on sale. Not a bad deal.

Weekend Special- Tripod Lamps: https://www.zeni.net/trf/weekend/

05-25-2007, 10:17 PM
So what method did you use?

05-25-2007, 10:25 PM
I used a 3M all temp weatherbond adhesive with a cork gasket.

Also used Pauls idea with the clamps and wood.

Works very well so far, but its only been about 10 miles..
Sat. will tell if I did a good job or not....

05-25-2007, 10:27 PM
Mines been sitting on my rebuilt motor for 3 years now. I think I glued it to the cover too.

05-26-2007, 12:04 AM
From what I can see of the engine(picture is rather dark) I congratulate you. The ONLY improvement I can suggest is the spark plug wires, trying to do away with some of the tangle.

If you haven't tried Permatex "The Right Stuff". Do try it.

Some folks are put off by the higher price, 12 rather than 3.95, but it is worth every penny. Been using it since 96, on Benzes, Porsches, Toyotas, my Tr, E type pans, I strongly recommend it. If you need any further info go to https://www.permatex.com and look at their video of it.

05-26-2007, 10:45 AM
I used Windo weld by 3M on my recent oil pan gasket replacement, seems the pan was leaking badly, it was all I had at the moment so I gave it a try and so far all my leaks are gone!!! its a butyl calk

05-27-2007, 11:00 PM
Any recommendations on a torque number?