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MrP
05-02-2004, 11:23 AM
How difficult is it to rebuild (new bearings) the rear hubs on a 79 Spitfire? Is it something a shade tree mechanic can do or should I send it somewhere (if so, where?)

Thank you,
MrP

VitSport6
05-02-2004, 11:14 PM
Hi all.
I had a friend who makes off road suspentions and all sorts of fab. stuff amke me a Churchill puller, He said...This was a bit ago, But said they could make a puller for other people if needed, I think he said $100.00-150.00 I know this is abit $$$ but it sure helped me, Mine needed doing, I think I replaced the origonal bearings!
Just a thought, If you would like I could see if they could make a copy of mine?
Good luck

VitSport6
05-02-2004, 11:19 PM
Hi again.
I just had a thought, I do remember a guy who worked for Triumph back in the day telling me that they use to smack the nut end on the ground hard enough to loosen the hub..........I thought what in the He\\? but I think this was when they were fairly new AND didnt have 40+ years of grab.
Just a side note, The nut was unthreaded past the end of the shaft to take the blow...Nut is easier to replace...So I was told.
Good luck indeed!

Eric
05-03-2004, 03:14 AM
The rebuild itself isn't bad (about typical for rear bearings), but pulling the hub is a real female dog. There is a special puller for the job, which really helps. There are very few pullers that will fit the tiny Truimph bolt pattern and support the hub. Using a puller that doesn't support the hub will absolutely bend the hub. (voice of experience)

Other that that, heat and violence are needed to shift the hub. Once it's loose, its all straightforward.

Basil
05-03-2004, 03:22 AM
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Eric:
The rebuild itself isn't bad (about typical for rear bearings), but pulling the hub is a real female dog. There is a special puller for the job, which really helps. There are very few pullers that will fit the tiny Truimph bolt pattern and support the hub. Using a puller that doesn't support the hub will absolutely bend the hub. (voice of experience)

Other that that, heat and violence are needed to shift the hub. Once it's loose, its all straightforward.<hr></blockquote>

I can vouch for it being a bear. I had a rear hub go bad onec and after fighting with it for a week, I ended up buying a good used unit and forgetting it. Eric, any idea where ine can buy the special hub puller?

Basil

Mark Jones
05-03-2004, 07:46 AM
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Basil:


Eric, any idea where i can buy the special hub puller?

Basil<hr></blockquote>

Basil;

I bought one from a NASS member, who is making them. The price was under $100. I believe his name is Bill Roope.

Eric
05-03-2004, 10:16 AM
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by VitSport6:
Hi again.
I just had a thought, I do remember a guy who worked for Triumph back in the day telling me that they use to smack the nut end on the ground hard enough to loosen the hub..........I thought what in the He\\? but I think this was when they were fairly new AND didnt have 40+ years of grab.
Just a side note, The nut was unthreaded past the end of the shaft to take the blow...Nut is easier to replace...So I was told.
Good luck indeed!<hr></blockquote>

I suspect the difference is the 40 years of grab. I was pounding on the unthreaded nut with a sledge hammer, after heating the hub to the point that the seals were melting - nothing! I ended up leaving it under extreme tension, with alternate heating and cooling for 3 days before it popped off (and nearly went through the shop wall). I did disassemble on afterwards (after discovering the bent hub), and it popped off easily.

I don't know where to buy a puller. I got the hub off by destroying it and buying a new one. images/icons/rolleyes.gif

[ 05-03-2004: Message edited by: Eric ]</p>

piman
05-03-2004, 01:47 PM
Hello all,

I have done a few Triumph 2000 sedan rear hubs, (basically the same as a TR250\TR6\Stag) and I use a heavy duty two leg puller which I attach to a simple 1" thick disc of steel drilled to the hub stud pattern. Screw the puller up TIGHT and then hit the screw hard with a 2lb hammer, it usually works first or second time. The whole setup was relatively cheap as the puller was second hand (good quality though) and steel is cheap.
I don't know about the Spitfire hub but the 2000 needs a dial indicator to set the preload on the bearings, which has a collapsible spacer between them. That is the part that needs care.

Good luck

Alec graemlins/thirsty.gif

billspit
05-03-2004, 04:21 PM
All the above is right on the mark. The job is easy with the proper hub puller. A friend of mine (and member of this forum)had a puller built at work and I borrowed it. It worked like a charm. It's best to install it and tighten on the large screw and then rap the axle with a brass hammer. Age is the likely culprit wih the rear hubs being so hard to get off. Originally I had a mchine shop remove the hubs. yes they used a regular puller and heat and bent them. I later removed those with no problem at all. Did it on the car in less than one hour from start to finish. Now my buddy needs to make one for TR-6s. By the way i borrowed this puller a couple of years ago and hope to return it tomorrow. Sorry Tim!!!

machinemd
05-05-2004, 10:52 PM
From:
To: STEVE STERN
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: TR6 rear wheel bearings o'h


I needed a rear hub rebuild on my TR6 and was warned that pulling the hubs apart without the proper tool many times ends up with a warped hub....Big bucks! Scott Howell was highly recommended. He was great to work with. If needed, I highly recommend him. Rebuilt rear hubs are $165.00 each,turn around time 2-3 days,written
warranty 12 month-12000 miles,exchange units have refundable core charge of $100.00 each,payment by credit card or money order, shipping charge of $8.00 per hub.
Steve

Scott Howell
High Point Imports
5858 Prospect St.
Archdale, N.C. 27263
336-884-1455 10-6 M-F

78Z
05-07-2004, 08:41 AM
If you've feeling creative here is instructions to build your own puller

https://www.triumphspitfire.com/puller.html

piman
05-07-2004, 10:26 AM
Hello all,
if you follow 78Z's links, forget the first, 1\8" thick steel is nowhere near strong enough if the hub is tight. The second link is much better.

Alec graemlins/thirsty.gif

VitSport6
05-07-2004, 05:05 PM
Hi.
I agree, I didnt read the link, But the Chuchill tool I had made was 3/8th inch thick.
graemlins/iagree.gif graemlins/driving.gif

screenprinter
07-26-2004, 12:01 PM
You might try Robb Nortier at www.britishtool.com (https://www.britishtool.com) (Imaginative web address eh?) He specializes in tool kits for Brit cars and also has an extensive collection of vintage tools which, under certain circumstances, he'll rent them to needy owners. I rented a churchill hub puller to do my 70 Sprite hubs - This tool may work for you.

Robb is a super-straight guy and will do his best to help you out. He also sells neat tools which he manufactures such as the elusive double-headed dashnut wrench and hub nut sockets for most live axle Brit cars, etc. Check out his website - under the "RENT" button you can see a photo I sent him of his puller in action on the rear hub of my Sprite.

Good luck - When I did the hubs on my 70 GT6+ I took then to a British mechanic in town and let him deal with them - Their pretty expensive to replace if and when you carve them up.